My first (and only) firearm ***NOW GUNTECH-FRIENDLY IMAGES ON PG. 1***

Arrowhead said:
Swarovski = 24.5oz
NF NXS = 34oz
Click to expand...

Wow, about as heavy as mine... Did you have the QD mount as well, or fixed? I wonder how it happened; maybe yours was defective as well (but in a different way lol). So much for German engineering...

Arrowhead said:
Local machine shop did the work, my barrel was threated from factory
Click to expand...

Interesting, I've been entertaining the idea of a muzzle brake (spot my hits)... What shop and could they thread? If now, how would I get Blaser to do it? I hope I don't have to deal with R.Nickolls/FN Sports again...

Arrowhead said:
Only news I got from Mansonville is that the SQ ask for some minor modification of the shooting line, you can see the sky from the extreme end of it (no sky law in Quebec), the guys will need to raise it a little bit...
Click to expand...

Hey that sounds like it's almost done; do you have even a vague idea when it might open? And what's this "no sky law"? How could you raise the backstop so high that it covers the sky?? Or does the backstop have to be high enough to allow the barriers at the firing line to block the sky?

Much appreciated :)
 
redman said:
Wow, about as heavy as mine... Did you have the QD mount as well, or fixed? I wonder how it happened; maybe yours was defective as well (but in a different way lol). So much for German engineering...



Interesting, I've been entertaining the idea of a muzzle brake (spot my hits)... What shop and could they thread? If now, how would I get Blaser to do it? I hope I don't have to deal with R.Nickolls/FN Sports again...



Hey that sounds like it's almost done; do you have even a vague idea when it might open? And what's this "no sky law"? How could you raise the backstop so high that it covers the sky?? Or does the backstop have to be high enough to allow the barriers at the firing line to block the sky?

Much appreciated :)
Click to expand...

Had the same saddle as yours, I had to tight mine with a set of plyers so that it would not get loose. If I would have kept my LRS2 I would have done a bedding job between the mount and barrel to get as much contact between them to reduce vibration as much as possible

You will need to find a specialized machine shop to thread your barrel, those barrel are so hard they will need very high quality machines to do the job

No sky law is that from the firering line you cannot see the sky, only the butt, thats why in local shooting range we have those big baffle 10 yards in front of the shooting line
 
Arrowhead said:
Had the same saddle as yours, I had to tight mine with a set of plyers so that it would not get loose. If I would have kept my LRS2 I would have done a bedding job between the mount and barrel to get as much contact between them to reduce vibration as much as possible
Click to expand...

Yeah, I remember having to do crazy stuff like that at the beginning, didn't help at all. But once the base was replaced (I kept the rings since they were shimmed & lapped to 20MOA) with a new one, it was like night & day - I couldn't believe it, it actually stopped moving. At first, they just replaced the levers, but it would still move; it wasn't until the whole base was replaced that it started to work flawlessly. I don't even have to tighten the levers that much either, it's really like the manual says: about as tight as the safety switch. I still check the levers to this day to make sure they haven't budged out of sheer paranoia :redface:

Arrowhead said:
You will need to find a specialized machine shop to thread your barrel, those barrel are so hard they will need very high quality machines to do the job
Click to expand...

So... who did you brake for you then? :D

Arrowhead said:
No sky law is that from the firering line you cannot see the sky, only the butt, thats why in local shooting range we have those big baffle 10 yards in front of the shooting line
Click to expand...

Oh that's it? Now you've got me even more curious as to when it will be finished, since that seems relatively minor! :D I hope they get working on it before the snow falls, because it will be much tougher then, I imagine.

Again, do you have any idea of a timeline for when it'll open? A season & year would suffice, and I promise not to be an ass with you if your estimate turns out to be wrong :p
 
redman said:
Yeah, I remember having to do crazy stuff like that at the beginning, didn't help at all. But once the base was replaced (I kept the rings since they were shimmed & lapped to 20MOA) with a new one, it was like night & day - I couldn't believe it, it actually stopped moving. At first, they just replaced the levers, but it would still move; it wasn't until the whole base was replaced that it started to work flawlessly. I don't even have to tighten the levers that much either, it's really like the manual says: about as tight as the safety switch. I still check the levers to this day to make sure they haven't budged out of sheer paranoia :redface:



So... who did you brake for you then? :D



Oh that's it? Now you've got me even more curious as to when it will be finished, since that seems relatively minor! :D I hope they get working on it before the snow falls, because it will be much tougher then, I imagine.

Again, do you have any idea of a timeline for when it'll open? A season & year would suffice, and I promise not to be an ass with you if your estimate turns out to be wrong :p
Click to expand...


Local machine shop did the brake, its 300$ if you want one but he wont be able to thread your barrel

No idea when the range will open, all work is done with the help of volonteers, so the more volonteers they have the faster the work will be done.

After the work is done and aprouved by the SQ they will have to form a commity (President, vice president etc) since its a non profit organisation to complete all legal paper...
 
Arrowhead said:
Local machine shop did the brake, its 300$ if you want one but he wont be able to thread your barrel
Click to expand...

Let me guess, the machine shop is you? :p I take it that unless Blaser does the threading for me, my warranty is void, right? :rolleyes: Would you recommend the same brake for a .308?

Arrowhead said:
No idea when the range will open, all work is done with the help of volonteers, so the more volonteers they have the faster the work will be done.

After the work is done and aprouved by the SQ they will have to form a commity (President, vice president etc) since its a non profit organisation to complete all legal paper...
Click to expand...

OK, cool, thanks for the info, hope to meet you there someday soon :cheers:. Unless I'm mistaken, your long range work is mostly done at CFB Valcartier, right?
 
Did the plans myself, but a little shop at the corner of my street did the job. The brake is installed on my .308 but can fit any caliber up to .338
Good chance your waranty will be void but if you decide to send it to Blaser you wont see your barrel before a year...

My long range is done at Farnhams military base and the competition are in Valcartier
 
Nice to see someone else likes the kraut goodness instead of the usual boring remmy 700 or Savage run of the mill stuff:p BTW all you need is the .338 laupa barrel and bolt swap kit.
 
johnl said:
Nice to see someone else likes the kraut goodness instead of the usual boring remmy 700 or Savage run of the mill stuff:p
Click to expand...

One of the very reasons I bought it

johnl said:
BTW all you need is the .338 laupa barrel and bolt swap kit.
Click to expand...

Between 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Swe, 308 Win and 300 Win Mag, you are correct, but going to a 338 LM would mean I'd need the Tactical 2 instead of the LRS2, since the 338 barrel fits the Tac 2 only...

Doesn't really matter cuz there's no place to use this LR caliber in this province.
 
Is that a Schmidt and Bender 4-16x50 with a 34mm tube?

If that is the 34 mm tube, who did you go with for the rings?

Also Mil/Mil yes?

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
Koshy said:
Is that a Schmidt and Bender 4-16x50 with a 34mm tube?

If that is the 34 mm tube, who did you go with for the rings?

Also Mil/Mil yes?

Thanks,
- Koshy
Click to expand...

You are correct and the tube diameter is indeed 34mm.

The mounting system is proprietary to Blaser, so I had no choice, and they make a QD version of it with 34mm rings, since Swarovski also makes a 34mm optic. You can find 34mm rings all over the place from other manufacturers. I know Badger Ordinance does them.

Mil/Mil, although the "P1 Bryant" reticule doesn't let me make much use of that feature, which is one of the reasons why I'm changing it to a "P4 fine 1st fp".

Hadrian said:
One hell of a first rifle! Most guys start with a .22 - you went right to the top. Well done!
Click to expand...

"Do it once, do it right"! :cool:
 
redman said:
You are correct and the tube diameter is indeed 34mm.

The mounting system is proprietary to Blaser, so I had no choice, and they make a QD version of it with 34mm rings, since Swarovski also makes a 34mm optic. You can find 34mm rings all over the place from other manufacturers. I know Badger Ordinance does them.

Mil/Mil, although the "P1 Bryant" reticule doesn't let me make much use of that feature, which is one of the reasons why I'm changing it to a "P4 fine 1st fp".



"Do it once, do it right"! :cool:
Click to expand...

Why cant you make use of it? O,o

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
Last edited:
The hashmarks are good for measuring/rangeing objects, but not so much for holdovers. Here's what the P1 looks like:

image.php


Go to page 10 of the manual for more details (available here). Moreover, the lines are pretty thick: 0.65 mils at the thinnest, which covers up quite a bit at longer distances, yet another reason to change to the "P4 fine 1st fp".
 
redman said:
The hashmarks are good for measuring/rangeing objects, but not so much for holdovers. Here's what the P1 looks like:

image.php


Go to page 10 of the manual for more details (available here). Moreover, the lines are pretty thick: 0.65 mils at the thinnest, which covers up quite a bit at longer distances, yet another reason to change to the "P4 fine 1st fp".
Click to expand...

I see I see, P4 Fine definetly looks like a better choice :)
 
redman said:
Yup, but I think it'll be barely visible at 4x... The P1 looks tiny at that setting - might be why this reticule is only standard with illuminating scopes
Click to expand...

But if your target is closer when using 4x magnification, shouldn't it be quite easy to see the reticule properly?

I.E. a 50 metre target with 4x magnification reticule not hard to see, but a 500 metre target with 4x magnification not so easy to see reticule if not impossible to aim. But if you raise magnification up to say 8x because it is FFP the reticule grows and now you can see fine at 500 metre.

Or am I understanding this all wrong?

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
You're partly right: doesn't matter how far the target is in terms of the reticule size, what matters is the magnification setting. At 4x, a 0.35mil reticule will appear extremely fine regardless of how big your target appears (by virtue of distance or size) through the scope.

By increasing magnification, you increase the apparent size of both reticule and target, so although the width of the reticule relative to the target is the same, both are bigger, and hence the reticule will be easier to see (thicker).
 
I didn't get through the first page of this thread as the picture is way too big... :(

Nice floor too. ;)
 
redman said:
You're partly right: doesn't matter how far the target is in terms of the reticule size, what matters is the magnification setting. At 4x, a 0.35mil reticule will appear extremely fine regardless of how big your target appears (by virtue of distance or size) through the scope.

By increasing magnification, you increase the apparent size of both reticule and target, so although the width of the reticule relative to the target is the same, both are bigger, and hence the reticule will be easier to see (thicker).
Click to expand...

So if you could chose again would you go for FFP or SFP?

Also you could go with the P4 rather then the P4 Fine and probably be okay?

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom