My first AR-15 finally came, please share some knowledge
- Thread starter e123456
- Start date
The barel lenght is measured from the bolt face to the end of the barrel. Isn't it written on the barrel?
What is the brand of the scope and the mount? That will most likely tell you if it's good or not.
What is the brand of the scope and the mount? That will most likely tell you if it's good or not.
Nope, nothing on the barrel. Receiver has labels - .223 5.56 AR-15 E2S.
Scope says "tactedge" and that's it. No multiplication, red/green dot.
Can not wait for weekend to shoot it : )
swap pistol grip
Great looking setup! My recommendation would be replace the stock plastic grip with a nice "ergo" style grip like a Hogue,Tango Down ,etc. If you shoot a lot its much easier on your hands.
All the best
Mark -beaver455
Great looking setup! My recommendation would be replace the stock plastic grip with a nice "ergo" style grip like a Hogue,Tango Down ,etc. If you shoot a lot its much easier on your hands.
All the best
Mark -beaver455
Close the action(bolt forward) and run your cleaning rod down the barrel. Measure the length of the rod then subtract the flash hider.
By the picture your rifle looks to be a 16" barrel with mid-length gas. A mid-length upper will need the 9" rail not the 7" carbine rail. I would suggest sticking with a clamp on style of rail system. Cutting of the Delta ring(the knurled ring that holds your plastic handguards on) is a lot easier than removing the FSB and gas tube assembly. If you want a super easy system the Daniel Defense Omega is where its at. 100% drop in, no tools required. Of course the above advice applies to free float rails. If you don't need a FF rail or aren't concerned by it, there are plenty of two piece drop in rail systems that are solid and easy to install.
The optic by the looks of it is either Leapers or NCstar. Both are crap. The mount is usable but again, far from tier one equipment. Regardless of what optic is on it now, you need to determine what you intend to do with the rifle and decide what accessories are appropriate for achieving that goal.
Beaver has solid advice, the stock grip is crap. Anything out there is better than stock.
TDC
By the picture your rifle looks to be a 16" barrel with mid-length gas. A mid-length upper will need the 9" rail not the 7" carbine rail. I would suggest sticking with a clamp on style of rail system. Cutting of the Delta ring(the knurled ring that holds your plastic handguards on) is a lot easier than removing the FSB and gas tube assembly. If you want a super easy system the Daniel Defense Omega is where its at. 100% drop in, no tools required. Of course the above advice applies to free float rails. If you don't need a FF rail or aren't concerned by it, there are plenty of two piece drop in rail systems that are solid and easy to install.
The optic by the looks of it is either Leapers or NCstar. Both are crap. The mount is usable but again, far from tier one equipment. Regardless of what optic is on it now, you need to determine what you intend to do with the rifle and decide what accessories are appropriate for achieving that goal.
Beaver has solid advice, the stock grip is crap. Anything out there is better than stock.
TDC
- Location
- 54°52'56"N 112°10'7"W Alpha Bravo
Nice set-up Congrats.... I prefer the longer rails myself, you cant go wrong with the Troy either. I have a 16" barrel and I went with the 12" troy rail, mine also has a Noveske lo pro gas block, you can find a lo pro gas block for relatively cheap or you can go the super cheap route and just dremel the top off your A2 sight. heres a pic to give ya an idea...
- Location
- 54°52'56"N 112°10'7"W Alpha Bravo
Well, Free Float means in most cases the rail clamps to the barrel nut or still utilizes a delta ring (eg. LaRue) and that is the only contact point, the rail does not touch the barrel. However if its a one piece free float rail it is alot more work to install (more dis-assembly). The other side of that coin is the two piece free float same rules apply, just way easier to install and once again clamps around the barrel nut after removal of the delta ring. A two piece non-free float is basically like your existing hand guards, it makes contact with the barrel, and still utilizes the delta ring....
Thank you, now it looks like I want 12" MRF-CX Troy rail
so I do not have to replace my front sight.
That piece of painted metal cost more than my SKS! wow.
Anybody knows who may have it in stock?
so I do not have to replace my front sight.
That piece of painted metal cost more than my SKS! wow.
Anybody knows who may have it in stock?
Busta Capp
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Town of the Blue Mountains (ON)
For Troy product have you tried emailing cqbservices, an Ontario based dealer on CGN (Username cqbservices); cqbservices@gmail.com
Thank you, now it looks like I want 12" MRF-CX Troy rail
so I do not have to replace my front sight.
That piece of painted metal cost more than my SKS! wow.
Anybody knows who may have it in stock?
The rail you are looking at will not fit your rifle. The rail is designed for carbine length gas systems(7") not the mid-length 9".
TDC
At the risk of getting beat up by the cool kids (again) I would say - leave it!
That gun is just perfect the way it is! Deadly accurate out to 200 yards (more with that fine scope), feather light, and handier than all get out! A better rifle there never was!
The only pimping a feller really needs to do is when he is changing calibers to those funky new 6mm jobs - or if he is going to chop the carbine for social work.
The first accessory you should get is a good reloader if you don't already have one. Let's go shoot!
Those of you that want to beat me up - please form an orderly line on the right! No brass knuckles!!!
That gun is just perfect the way it is! Deadly accurate out to 200 yards (more with that fine scope), feather light, and handier than all get out! A better rifle there never was!
The only pimping a feller really needs to do is when he is changing calibers to those funky new 6mm jobs - or if he is going to chop the carbine for social work.
The first accessory you should get is a good reloader if you don't already have one. Let's go shoot!
Those of you that want to beat me up - please form an orderly line on the right! No brass knuckles!!!
- Location
- 54°52'56"N 112°10'7"W Alpha Bravo
This guy is awsome to deal with really knowledgeable and has a good inventory of Troy products, His prices are right on the money too. Be patient with emailing, he's a really busy guy, he does alot with law enforcement...
Haha how about spiked bats, lol...jk...
To the OP,
TDC is right your looking at the wrong rail for your setup. your guna need a 9" mid-length rail that will bolt on in about 20 minutes with absolutly no modifications other then cutting of the delta ring with a dremel. OR you can go with the 12" rail and just buy a lo pro gas block to go with it, or just cut the top of the front sight with your dremel. In terms of stock email cqb services and email fabsports (top of this page) ask them both if they have inventory on these rails, fabsports will also have cheap gas blocks instock imsure... Good luck and keep us posted...
Ok, you are right - I measured that rail on picture and - it will not fit. Life sucks : )
Question now is - 9" or 12" ? Price difference is big.
Later I plan to add a bipod, I could be wrong, but I feel that it should be as close to the front as possible. UNLESS it can be mounted on my existing front sight, there is a strange thingy on it's bottom - can it be used for a bipod ot not? If not, what is this for?
Thanks!
Question now is - 9" or 12" ? Price difference is big.
Later I plan to add a bipod, I could be wrong, but I feel that it should be as close to the front as possible. UNLESS it can be mounted on my existing front sight, there is a strange thingy on it's bottom - can it be used for a bipod ot not? If not, what is this for?
Thanks!
: ) thank you for speedy responce, even though I am not a dude : )
Am I right that bipod should be as upfront as possible, or it would be OK to mount it on a short 9" rail ?
