blaxsun
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
And that's a pretty scary thought...
My first Ar-15! with some questions.
- Thread starter TheCircle
- Start date
Phat Eagle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Fraser Valley, BC
As others have stated:
-AR15 safety can't be engaged unless the hammer is cocked
-action will smooth with use. Make sure you run her wet as all ARs prefer!
-that brass on the bolt face is normal. Hopefully you'll get lots more on there in short order!
-the tooling mark is the sign of a properly staked castle nut. Not the tidiest job, but you got a USA made rifle for sub-$700...
They're tools not jewels, so run her hard and put MANY of your own marks on her!!!!!
-AR15 safety can't be engaged unless the hammer is cocked
-action will smooth with use. Make sure you run her wet as all ARs prefer!
-that brass on the bolt face is normal. Hopefully you'll get lots more on there in short order!
-the tooling mark is the sign of a properly staked castle nut. Not the tidiest job, but you got a USA made rifle for sub-$700...
They're tools not jewels, so run her hard and put MANY of your own marks on her!!!!!
I unboxed mine this morning. Did not have the same brass marks or hap hazard staking.
I wasn't expecting too much however and would have been just as glad had their been the same marks. Still a great deal even after tossing some better furniture on it.
I wasn't expecting too much however and would have been just as glad had their been the same marks. Still a great deal even after tossing some better furniture on it.
Scott Rhodes
Member
- Location
- Mission BC
I get a kick out of people calling firearms Tools, and not to worry if gun shows up "New" with obvious damage. Regardless what you paid, you still paid for a new rifle. A lot of people I notice have a "Operator mentality " like the rifle is going to war. RESTRICTED RIFLES in Canada aren't tools. There paper punchers. Last time I checked my hammer didn't cost $700
Scott Rhodes
Member
- Location
- Mission BC
Tell me what work do you do with your restricted firearms?...unless your in law enforcement...punching paper doesn't count.
Apart from the poor attempt at staking the castle nut, the rest of the things you listed are normal for a new AR15 that has been test fired for function at the factory.
Ignore the people that say it doesn't need to be staked, they don't know what they are talking about. Castle nuts can and do come loose, and can lead to malfunctions and parts breakage. Also, never loctite a castle nut, it is harder to get off than staking. Staking can be easily broken using a proper castle nut wrench when you want to change out anything.
If the staking on one of the other two points is the same, or not staked at all, then stake it before shooting it, although you should probably stake it properly anyway. It should look like this:
It is easy to do with either an automatic center punch, or a punch and hammer. A couple of hits should do it. It can then be touched up with some matching black paint if you like.
I would also check the staking on the gas key, which should look something like this:
Keep the carbine lubed with a good lube. We use Slip2000.
The carbine is also more than likely overgassed, so if using 5.56 ammunition, you might want to invest in a H or even an H2 buffer, it should be fine with a carbine buffer and .223 ammunition.
Just as importantly, don't be in a hurry to rush out and buy and accessories for it. All you need right now, is a few more magazines, and 1000 rounds of ammunition. After that, if there is something about the gun you don't like, such as the grip, stock, etc. then if possible, try one on a buddies gun first.
Regards.
Mark
Ignore the people that say it doesn't need to be staked, they don't know what they are talking about. Castle nuts can and do come loose, and can lead to malfunctions and parts breakage. Also, never loctite a castle nut, it is harder to get off than staking. Staking can be easily broken using a proper castle nut wrench when you want to change out anything.
If the staking on one of the other two points is the same, or not staked at all, then stake it before shooting it, although you should probably stake it properly anyway. It should look like this:
It is easy to do with either an automatic center punch, or a punch and hammer. A couple of hits should do it. It can then be touched up with some matching black paint if you like.
I would also check the staking on the gas key, which should look something like this:
Keep the carbine lubed with a good lube. We use Slip2000.
The carbine is also more than likely overgassed, so if using 5.56 ammunition, you might want to invest in a H or even an H2 buffer, it should be fine with a carbine buffer and .223 ammunition.
Just as importantly, don't be in a hurry to rush out and buy and accessories for it. All you need right now, is a few more magazines, and 1000 rounds of ammunition. After that, if there is something about the gun you don't like, such as the grip, stock, etc. then if possible, try one on a buddies gun first.
Regards.
Mark
You sound like you just want to be pedantic and upset over a term you don't agree with. Get over it.
There are plenty of competition tac rifle matches (and groups running them) using then as tools to compete. Oh, and it's also a tool to drill holes in paper... you know, paper punching.
But it's okay, you can try to argue semantics, it is clear you don't have a clue.
Scott Rhodes
Member
- Location
- Mission BC
Oh I very sorry if I hurt your feelings. Ok ok...you can call them "TOOLS" if it makes you feel more like Rambo. Next time I'm at the hardware store I'll ask what section the AR15's are in. Might have luck at Canadian tire Right?
blaxsun
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Not every manufacturer stakes the castle nuts on their builds, nor do castle nuts necessarily need to be staked if it's properly assembled. That being said, I'm sure some castle nuts have come loose (whether they were properly installed is open to speculation). There are also aftermarket extension tubes that do not need to be staked such as PWS or proprietary ones such as Magpul provides with their UBR stock. To stake or not to stake will be the question going forward...
Enjoy the new "toy" ("tool", "gun", whatever...).
Not every manufacturer stakes the castle nuts on their builds, nor do castle nuts necessarily need to be staked if it's properly assembled. That being said, I'm sure some castle nuts have come loose (whether they were properly installed is open to speculation). There are also aftermarket extension tubes that do not need to be staked such as PWS or proprietary ones such as Magpul provides with their UBR stock. To stake or not to stake will be the question going forward...
Enjoy the new "toy" ("tool", "gun", whatever...).
Wrong. I'm not even going to bother debating this with you. If it isn't staked, then it isn't "properly installed".
Some receiver extensions do not require staking, such as rifle receiver extensions, and the couple you mentioned, but we are talking about standard carbine lower receiver extensions here.
Every reputable manufacturer stakes the castle nut/end plate; Colt, BCM, Colt Canada, DD, LMT, etc..
Those that don't, generally make "just as good as" guns, and tend to cut corners with a lot of other parts as well.
A "properly installed" castle nut should be torqued to 40ft/lb +or- 2ft/lb and staked in at least one or preferably two spots.
Regards.
Mark
