My First Mosin, 1925 Hex ex Dragoon...what do you guys think?

brapjack said:
ahhhh yea its counter bored. i would imagine, this is a -1 for accuracy?
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It was meant to improve accuracy on rifles that had washed out rifling near the barrel end or damaged crowns. If the remaining rifling is still strong it could still be a reasonable shooter. I still hold out hope for mine.
My first Mosin has a bore that looks like a monkey's anal tract, but is still capable of 2.5 inch groups with MFS hunting ammo and irons.
 
For those of you worried about counter bored barrels......

I have a 1909 Finnish m91 mosin with a 2" counter bore. The bore is dark and has some pits, but that being said on a good day with handloads it will shoot 1 MOA or better.
 
Tinman204 said:
For those of you worried about counter bored barrels......

I have a 1909 Finnish m91 mosin with a 2" counter bore. The bore is dark and has some pits, but that being said on a good day with handloads it will shoot 1 MOA or better.
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Fingers crossed.. although i don't know if i am a 1 MOA operator
 
brapjack said:
NICE!!! do it! half the fun is working on and learning about any old surplus boom stick!! and from what i hear these go BOOM indeed.
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I have a '42 round receiver, but I have been wanting a pre war hex receiver more and more these days! Westrifle will get get my business very soon, right after I recoup from funds spend at the vet this week.
Mosin's definitely go BOOM, haha. I'd suggest getting a recoil pad. These things tend to cause some pain around the 100 round mark ;)
 
Nice score.

Personally if the shellac is knackered and coming off on your clothes I see little point in keeping a degraded finish. What is one supposed to do with it otherwise?

Stripped my own flakey ex-dragoon and it revealed a cartouche on the stock, dated 7 years later than the rifle!

Now if it were an original dragoon that hadn't been through at least one parts bin mash up refurb and conversion to 91/30 spec it might be a different story IMO.

I have a counter bored and slightly frosted Finn m24 and without load work it's shooting on par with my 91/30 infantry rifles.
 
brapjack said:
Fingers crossed.. although i don't know if i am a 1 MOA operator
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Touching up the trigger on these guns is a worthwhile endevour. Helps in the accuracy department. A few thin shims and a bit of polishing go a long way.
I dropped around four or five pounds off the pull on my 42. The 35 and 36 will get the same treatment eventually, pull weight must be nearly twenty pounds on my 35. I had trouble getting the bolt out initially, the spring was so stiff.
 
kennymo said:
Touching up the trigger on these guns is a worthwhile endevour. Helps in the accuracy department. A few thin shims and a bit of polishing go a long way.
I dropped around four or five pounds off the pull on my 42. The 35 and 36 will get the same treatment eventually, pull weight must be nearly twenty pounds on my 35. I had trouble getting the bolt out initially, the spring was so stiff.
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i found a video by a guy on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/user/Iraqveteran8888/videos he does a lot of how to's, including a trigger job on a mosin... was thinking of trying this after i get my first groups and then doing a comparison.
 
Mark-II said:
Nice score.

Personally if the shellac is knackered and coming off on your clothes I see little point in keeping a degraded finish. What is one supposed to do with it otherwise?
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You just pass a 0000 steelwool pad over it a few times then reapply some shellac. Alcohol in the mix will melt the old finisn and blend it with the new one. A few reapplications with enough drying time between sessions and that finish will be exactly like it should be on a Mosin.
PP.
 
after doing the steel wool bit better than 40% of my shellac was gone. Seriously - it was just coming off in chunks from even just handling the rifle.

Thanks for the tip otherwise, and I will try it on my less piebald flakers that I have no intention of stripping, but trust me that the finish on this one was beyond restoration. Be it shellac or oil, it was going to need a new finish, so I opted for the pre-1950's make-work project look ;)
 
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