My FR8's. Update and new photos

I love peep sights, but man...for a beater bush gun, I'd sort out a #4 sporter for a few hundred bucks.

I get that sentiment I really do, I don't plan to beat any of the guns up, but if they get some wear and tear iam fine with that, it's something I really like, I might as well use it for something I like doing, you can't take them with you.
 
I love peep sights, but man...for a beater bush gun, I'd sort out a #4 sporter for a few hundred bucks.

I have a sporter #4, and a nice shooting #5 for that matter. And it's not even close - for wandering around the farm looking for Coyotes, the FR-7 is what I grab. The price of .303 nowadays is a big part of it, and the FR-7 is a better balanced, nicer to shoulder gun than any sproterized #4 I've ever had or shot.

The #5 I've got is a pretty sweet, easy handling rifle that's fun to shoot. My Mosin M38 is a nice, light, agile heavy hitter as well.

In general, I have a sweet spot for full powered military bolt action carbines. They're just kind of the apex of that era of rifle, IMHO. Even my sporting rifles tend towards wood stocks - they just look and feel right (to me) in a way that polymer stocked guns don't.

But, that's just me. As the Portugese say: "Para gustos, colores" - for taste, there are colours.

I have a buddy who places all rifles into 2 categories: Category one: Full wood #4-s. Category two: Crap. And power to him, because that's what he likes, and that's what works for him.
 
Not sure what happened to this poor rifle. hit it with some paint stripper to get the pain off the barrel and nose cap, and this is what I found, I'll be happy when the m43 stock arrives so I can start restoring this poor old girl. the Evaporust did its job but no Parkerizing left after the bath. New nose cap and other smaller parts are on their way from numrich.

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Is it possible that the silvery coloured stuff is solder? Just a guess. Only way that I know to check that is to daub with some cold blue - if solder, will not change colour - if steel, you will see colour change. I have seen that when trying to remove soldered-on front sight ramps - gotta get all the solder off to get the steel to go blue in that area (I was using cold blue). Your second picture appear to show edges of some stampings in that shiny area - might be significant? Your first picture shows some real "goobered" bead of something - solder? As if a lathe pass was made and that area turned too small diameter for the front sight to fit - so built up with solder and then re-machined? Many years ago, our machinist shop at the mine would do "spray weld" into bearing races on end bells of electric motors - was like an oxy-acetylene torch melting some ground up powder / sintered metal particles - that would blow and stick against the bearing seat - to build it up - while the end bell was spinning in a chuck on the lathe - was then machined down to correct size, afterwards. I put enough replacement sealed bearings into those - do not recall such a drastic colour change though ...
 
Perhaps another possibility for those squiggly lines - might be aluminum? - if the barrel was rubbed against something aluminum? Not certain that I have seen such lines and markings before - not certain what can cause that? I have removed much crap from finished metal surfaces using penetrating oil and 0000 steel wool - even red rust - does not seem to harm the actual finish. Might be worth to see if that works? I was turning aluminum inserts for my barrel vice - would get aluminum marks on barrel when that thing torqued up - before I learned to lay a layer of paper in there - as I recall, just oil and some extra fine steel wool would remove it from the bluing on the barrel.
 
North of the scratches on the shiny part there is solder, it's how the front sight housing seemed to be held in place, you can see a semi threaded groove in the barrel at that part as well, that is where the sling swivel goes through the front sight housing and secures in. The scratches themselves are indeed scratches, I think someone tried to open up the nose cap with it still on the barrel and hit the barrel a bunch with whatever tool they were using, most likely a Dremel.
 
I was curious if anyone had bubba-converted one over to mag fed but could only find this picture of an extended box online. Looks like it was done possibly without modifying the rifle much?

Yes, CDI has or had a mauser bottom metal that'd work with aics magazines. I think they're out of business now.
The PTG mauser bottom metal might work too.

I thought of going this route before, a short handy rifle with a dbm. But I came to the conclusion that I shouldn't try making the fr8 something it's not, and a modern and available rifle from savage/ruger/ect would work in the role better.

Not sure if the picture will work.

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Yes, CDI has or had a mauser bottom metal that'd work with aics magazines. I think they're out of business now.
The PTG mauser bottom metal might work too.

I thought of going this route before, a short handy rifle with a dbm. But I came to the conclusion that I shouldn't try making the fr8 something it's not, and a modern and available rifle from savage/ruger/ect would work in the role better.

Not sure if the picture will work.

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Iam surprised there isn't more available for DBM kits for older mauser actions, they are widely popular and available guns. Either it's a market no one has tapped, or tried and failed to make a reliable product, of just isn't as big of a market as I thought. But the introduction of the repro tench mags would say otherwise. Sold out fast and stay sold out as well.
 
Iam surprised there isn't more available for DBM kits for older mauser actions, they are widely popular and available guns. Either it's a market no one has tapped, or tried and failed to make a reliable product, of just isn't as big of a market as I thought. But the introduction of the repro tench mags would say otherwise. Sold out fast and stay sold out as well.

Any idea if the 98K trench mags could be fitted to the FR7/FR8? Asking for a friend :rolleyes:
 
Yes, CDI has or had a mauser bottom metal that'd work with aics magazines. I think they're out of business now.
The PTG mauser bottom metal might work too.

I thought of going this route before, a short handy rifle with a dbm. But I came to the conclusion that I shouldn't try making the fr8 something it's not, and a modern and available rifle from savage/ruger/ect would work in the role better.

Not sure if the picture will work.

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Is that your rifle lone-wolf?
The FR8's over all look suits a magazine prodtruding from the action, but I also agree there are many modern alternatives available.
 
No from the CDI facebook page, I remembered it from when I was thinking of trying the conversion

To get the bottom metal you're probably going to be into $200-300 Canadian, plus the possibility of fitting or minor gunsmithing
So a $800 fr8 + a $300 DBM, and a few years ago you could get a ruger scout for that price - and it's scope ready with a good iron sight already - probably lighter too.
The 8mm mauser clips work pretty good with 308, for a time I had a strike hard gear mosin stock pouch on the rifle with a couple loaded 5rnd clips in it.

That stock pouch is now on my 527 carbine holding a couple magazines
 
Any idea if the 98K trench mags could be fitted to the FR7/FR8? Asking for a friend :rolleyes:

A trench mag was an accessory for the WWI GEW 98 - so it is simple "click in" - remove floor plate, mag spring and follower on rifle, click in the trench mag by using exact same fastenings that the floor plate used - has it's own longer mag spring and it's own follower. I think it was loaded up (or reloaded, or "topped up") by using multiple five round chargers through the top of the rifle. Not exactly "quick detachable" like a modern DBM, but might take less than 2 minutes to install on a rifle.

FR7 were conversions from 7x57 small ring mausers, usually. FR8 were conversions from large ring mausers. Often, you will find the mag box length to be different small ring versus large ring - but even the shortest ones are more than long enough for 7.62 NATO cartridge - I never had one, but suspect the blocking used at front of magazine box would be thinner? - just a guess - I do not know. I would suspect that most Mausers that fed 7x57 or 8x57JS could be converted to use 7.62 NATO rounds - I notice Israeli conversions almost always had block at front of original mag box to hold 7.62 NATO rounds to the rear in the magazine - I presume that worked better with the original "feed lips" milled into underside of the receiver?

Most small ring floor plates are smidgeon shorter or slightly different latching than for 98's. So, yes, trench mag could be adapted to FR7, with some metal work, I presume. I heard guys on West Coast were sticking Chev 350 CID engines into Toyota Land Cruisers back in the day - so about anything is "possible" - if you throw enough money, effort and skill at it.
 
Well the New FR8 and the M43 stock both arrived today. I'll wait on the parts from Numrich before I do any stock modification, but looks like it should work well!
The new FR8 looks like it has a dark shellac on it, Not sure if it would be original to the gun or not. On the opposite side where it has worn away over time the stock is actually the same color as the handguard.

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For certain is a lot of merit in big bear post #40. Maybe goes about cost - I think into the 1960's milsurps were super cheap to buy - way cheaper than buying a commercial made rifle - was very common out here on prairies to hunt with guys using WWI or WWII made milsurps - cheap and they worked well. But do some reading. The VERY BEST Lee Enfield No. 4's - the British Sniper T's - selected because of unusually good performance from run-of-the-mill - then sent off and carefully tuned by Holland and Holland - and only needed to put 6 out of 7 rounds into a 10" circle at 400 yards - that is 2.5 MOA if you do not count one shot fired - and "good enough" to go - as a sniper's rifle - no doubt some would do better than that, but was the minimum standard, then - of THE BEST OF THEM. So like most Axis bought today will do that with no-name scope. And pricing has pretty much turned around - except for maybe some made-in-China SKS or similar, not too many "cheap to buy" milsurps are left anymore.

In fairness to the No.4(T) though, that was the minimum accuracy standard specified by the authorities, not the standard actually put out by the factories on average. The No.4 dominated at Bisley for a generation or more at 1000 yards, more or less, and the "compensation" and accuracy at longer ranges was well-proven. And those were not selected rifles like the No.4(T).
 
I have a FR8. When I visited Century Arms in Montreal they had only about 10 of them left, so it is not the nicest I have ever seen, but it has been an excellent shooter. Best $64 rifle I ever bought.

As I recall, the front sight post if off-center, so screwing it in or out can adjust elevation and windage, for a good zero.

I have only shot it with military ammo, and it was quite accurate. I used it in a match where we shoot 100,200 and 300 yards. Each shoot is 10 shots, so I added a larger magazine for convenince.


Recoil is not as fierce as a Jungle carbine or a M44 Nossy Maggot.

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