My Huskies don't extract reliably

H

Huntin' Gun

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Eastern Edge of the Foothills
I have 4 different 1600 series rifles.
1. A 30-06 carbine I've had for 3 years. It's reliable.
2. A .270 carbine I've had since early spring
3. A .270 Std action I've only had since June
4. A 6.5x55 Std action I've had since September


I've had the 30-06 out shooting and hunting quite a bit, and it feeds and extracts very well.

The .270 carbine I had out for a couple days this season. I shot a deer with it, my Dad shot 2 deer with it, and my brother missed a fair bit, but then later shot a deer with it. It failed to extract fully after the first shot on my deer. The brass only came about half-way out, then was left behind as the bolt continued to move back. I had to pull the empty brass out with my fingers. Good thing I only needed the first shot on that deer.
It did this once at the range when I was sighting it in. The rest of the time it cycled fine.

The .270 Std also seems to cycle reliably. I shot a buck with it this past weekend, and it worked well.

The 6.5x55 is the least reliable. The brass only comes part way out, then is left behind as the bolt moves back. This happens probably > 1/4 of the time. Then you have to use your fingers to get the brass out of the way. IF it's almost out, it's not that big of a deal. But a couple times it was still most of the way in the chamber, and it was difficult to get it out. My brother borrowed this rifle to shoot a doe, and he fired it about 20 times at deer without connecting [I know, I need to get him to practice more before I take him out again] and it happened probably about 6 times. It also happened at the range sighting it in.

So, as I compare the "claws" between the 4 rifles, I don't see anything different. The claw on the 6.5x55 isn't obviously broken or anything, and looks normal. So why would it not extract? Why would the claw jump over the case rim during firing? Would this happen if my load is too hot?
Do I just need to replace the extractor?

If CRF is so reliable for feeding and extraction, then why is this happening? I swear I have more issues with CRF than push feed.

Someone who knows more about these rifles, or CRF in general, please help me out.
 
You mention that they are control round feed actions.
Just wonder if you can drop a round in the chamber and close the bolt?
Sometimes the claw gets ground by bubba's a bit too far which may
cause this delores you are experiencing?
Just a thought and a couple of pennies......
 
I have three Husqvarnas, top to bottem;
  • Model 3000 in 270 Win.
  • Model 4000 light weight in 30-06.
  • Model 1651 in 358 NM.
TheHusqvarnaTriplets.jpg


To date, I've never experienced any functioning problems. At the top of this forum is a sticky on Hisqvarnas. There's a guy that goes by Baribal that's very knowledgeable on Husqvarnas. Perhaps give him a shout. He may be able to offer a solution.
 
I have no experience with these type of rifles not extracting 100%, EXCEPT if a previous owner had a habit of sliding a round into the chamber and forcing the bolt closed and thus damaging the extractor. I would bet that is the problem; but it might take a gunsmith to properly diagnose and fix.
 
Yeah, I know of Baribal. I was thinking of sending him a PM, but I thought I'd try the forum first. I still hope he chimes in, since I think he knows more about these Huskies than anyone.

I looked real close at the extractors looking for evidence of Bubba work, based on Kamlooky's post. I think that he's probably right and there's some evidence of grinding. The 6.5x55 has a bit of a bluish hue to the claw, like what can happen when steel is heated. And on the .270 carbine there's just a slight irregularity to the curve of the claw.
So I think I should replace those extractors. I hope Tradeex has those parts for sale.

Next question: How do you remove the extractor from the bolt body?
 
Sounds like the problem isn't extraction, but ejection. Check your ejector, it may be broken or have some crud in it that doesn't allow it to function properly.
 
MetricMan said:
Sounds like the problem isn't extraction, but ejection. Check your ejector, it may be broken or have some crud in it that doesn't allow it to function properly.
Click to expand...

I have a different mauser action that doesn't eject properly... this isn't like that. :redface:

With this one the brass doesn't even get all the way back to the ejector. As you pull the bolt back, before it is all the way back, the brass comes loose from the claw. The fixed ejector is still at least a half inch away from contacting the brass. So it's the claw that loses it's grip somehow.
 
As I mentioned before, if you drop a round in the chamber, an unbubba'd
claw won't climb over the case head when you try and close the bolt on it.
I have a few crf and the one 308win with the crf I don't need to load the mag
well on the first round. Been bubba'd, but in a good way.
Cheers.
 
Well - Perhaps the reason the 6.5 doesnt fare so well is due to the casing/rim size. North American brass is 10 thou smaller than the original European spec....
 
I never saw a HVA rifle not extracting unless someone fooled with the extractor. Sometime, it's when people replaced the extractor without correct adjustment. And this is true with any non-rotating extractor from any Mauser action.
While holding the bolt in your hands, if you insert a round under the extractor claw, on the bolt face, it should hold in place by itself (and you should feel some resistance while putting it in place). If it slips out or it's loose in place, then, there is something wrong. There are many things wich can be done, but without knowing what is wrong - bad claw shape, wrong claw tip thickness, not enough radial pressure etc... - then, it's very hard to point to the right way to fix it.
 
My Fathers Parker Hale was not extracting properly. It would come back about half way then fall off. Pluck it out with the finger or flip the rifle on its side to get the fired round out.

Talked to Dad about it and he said that is a different extractor. Maybe was. Forgot to mention how BADLY he bubba'd it. Phone call to Western Gun Parts and a new FN 98 Extractor in hand. Just to get back to the farm this weekend to install and test out.

CBY
 
Good thoughts everyone. I was using Winchester brass, so maybe the 10 thou smaller brass has something to do with it.

I did pull the bolt out and then I slid a round under the claw. There was resistance and then it kind of clicked into place. And it was held pretty solid once there. I could hold just the round, and the bolt wouldn't fall off, or I could hold the bolt and put the round facing downwards, and it wouldn't fall out.

Just like cybb486 describes, that is what mine does, but only sometimes.

Do you think if the load is too hot, that it could cause the claw to slip over the brass somehow?

How do I adjust the extractor?
 
Huntin' Gun said:
Baribal,
would any mauser extractor work? or does the Husky 1600 series have something different about the design that a replacement has to be made specifically for these?

Thanks
Click to expand...

the 1600 has a Mauser 93/95/96 style extractor. A 98 pattern won't work. A 96 extractor will.

condensed version;

you rotate the extractor counter-clockwise (holding the bolt looking into the firing pin hole) until the guide lip pops out of the groove

then you push the extractor forward (toward the 'muzzle') till it pops off

bend the rear half. this takes some feel. The extractor is made of spring steel. Lay it on a table first so you can have some reference to how much you have moved it. You don;t need much. Trial and error.
 
rgv said:
the 1600 has a Mauser 93/95/96 style extractor. A 98 pattern won't work. A 96 extractor will.
Click to expand...

Not totally. A M/94/96/38 extractor won't work, nor will a M98 one. They have their own extractors. The 1640 action is a cross over between the M/94and the M/98 and the extractor is a good example of it. Seems Western Gun Parts have some extractors in stock, but they're not cheap.

As said above, you can try to slitghly bend the extractor a bit, this may help for tension.
But if it pops in place and is firmly held there, it may also be a follower interference problem. Cycle the action with (and empty) case and see were it comes off. It should always be in the same spot, or very close to. Check for any suspect movement. It may also be that the extractor moves from friction with the guiding rail and frees the round. The would be fixed bu unbending the extractor a bit.
 
Baribal said:
Not totally. A M/94/96/38 extractor won't work, nor will a M98 one. They have their own extractors. The 1640 action is a cross over between the M/94and the M/98 and the extractor is a good example of it. Seems Western Gun Parts have some extractors in stock, but they're not cheap.
Click to expand...

i've fit a milsurp extractor onto a 1640, though I forget if it was a 93/95/96/38. As you say, it is not a drop-in.
 
Here's what a M/94 extractor assembled on a 1640 bolt looks like; you can see it seldom fits the tabs of the bolt ring - and as you can see, the lip (tab) does not engage the whole way (only one tab is inserted for a better view). Sometimes, it won't even engage 1/2 the way;

M94extractorona1640.jpg


Below; Top one is the M/98 extractor - middle M/94/96/38 - bottom is the 1640 extractor

P1010253.jpg


P1010254.jpg


Here you can see the difference between the two bolts / extractors ; top is the M/94/96/38 style bottom is the 1640

M94vs1640extractor.jpg
 
So I was fiddling with the 6.5x55 most of the evening yesterday, and a little with the 270.
I couldn't get the .270 to lose it's grip on the shell casing at all. But it didn't exhibit the problem very often in the field. Just once with me on my first shot, but the rest of the time it didn't have any issues.

Most of my attention last night was on the 6.5x55, since my brother said it happened to him quite a bit. I saw it happen a couple times. First I was feeding and cycling empty brass, then I put together some dummy rounds, because empties don't feed very well.

I was cycling things very slowly and deliberately at first, and I couldn't make the claw lose it grip on the casing at all when moving slow and deliberate.

Then I started cycling it faster and faster. At one point I was just moving the bolt all the way back and all the way forward quickly without bring the bolt handle down. [This is how I unload my Brazilian Mauser Sporter which has a blind magazine.] As I did this, there were 2 times that the 3rd round fell off the bolt face and didn't get to the ejector. Both times it was the 3rd round.

So I'm not sure what to make of this. From what I can tell, it definately has an issue, but I can't make it consistently reproduce that issue. I could just ignore it, but then I'm sure the issue will present itself right when the buck of a lifetime shows up.
I do know that my handloads are hot. Lots here would say too hot, but I don't think they're too hot. Primers are definately flat, though. Would a hot load cause the claw to lose it's grip?

Maybe the brass is just a little stuck, and the claw slips over the rim? I've not ever had the case left completely in the chamber, it's always at least part way out, and can be grabbed with fingers and removed.

Should I try taking off the extractor and bending it a bit?

I'm still stumped.:HR:
 
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