My Huskies don't extract reliably

I don't expect hot loads doing that (and can't see how it could), but rim thickness may be in cause. Hard extraction from sticky cases may cause the claw to open a bit, but I guess your loads are not that hot (I hope for you, anyways).
What make of cases are you using?
Rim thickness for the 6.5X55 should vary from 0.059" to about 0.053" (avg. 0.055")
 
So I was fiddling with the 6.5x55 most of the evening yesterday, and a little with the 270.
I couldn't get the .270 to lose it's grip on the shell casing at all. But it didn't exhibit the problem very often in the field. Just once with me on my first shot, but the rest of the time it didn't have any issues.

Most of my attention last night was on the 6.5x55, since my brother said it happened to him quite a bit. I saw it happen a couple times. First I was feeding and cycling empty brass, then I put together some dummy rounds, because empties don't feed very well.

I was cycling things very slowly and deliberately at first, and I couldn't make the claw lose it grip on the casing at all when moving slow and deliberate.

Then I started cycling it faster and faster. At one point I was just moving the bolt all the way back and all the way forward quickly without bring the bolt handle down. [This is how I unload my Brazilian Mauser Sporter which has a blind magazine.] As I did this, there were 2 times that the 3rd round fell off the bolt face and didn't get to the ejector. Both times it was the 3rd round.

So I'm not sure what to make of this. From what I can tell, it definately has an issue, but I can't make it consistently reproduce that issue. I could just ignore it, but then I'm sure the issue will present itself right when the buck of a lifetime shows up.
I do know that my handloads are hot. Lots here would say too hot, but I don't think they're too hot. Primers are definately flat, though. Would a hot load cause the claw to lose it's grip?

Maybe the brass is just a little stuck, and the claw slips over the rim? I've not ever had the case left completely in the chamber, it's always at least part way out, and can be grabbed with fingers and removed.

Should I try taking off the extractor and bending it a bit?

I'm still stumped.:HR:

Since you have a number of 1600's I would try swapping bolts and try your function tests (no live fire).

That will isolate the problem from a bolt-face/extractor relationship from a feed-rail/boltface relationship

another thing that can cause rounds jumping is a weak magazine spring (reverse of what you'd think). You can try swapping those around out of the rifle that works best.
 
Wicnhester brass is the worse you can buy for the 6.5X55 (just followed by Remington), as they are well known for having minimal dimensions on either base and rim. Just measured a couple of WW cases and the rims are below 0.051"... it's almost 0.010" below the maximum CIP's rim thickness and often the rim diameter is much smaller than normal too (about 0.469"- 0.471" for W-W and 0.474"-0.476" avg for Euro-made ones). It well may be the cause of your problem. Try Euro made cases, it may fix your problem once and for all.
 
one thought -- I sugget you alcohol clean your bolt face and use some thin scotch type tape on the bolt face and try your feeding again. Try in various ways - put the shell into the extractor and try again.

You may try the tape on the back of your dummy rounds to see if it helps or hurts - Too thick of tape wont tell you much, but a thin scotch tape or film may show that it is indeed rim thickness.

My Bailkel double 30-06 can ONLY accept Winchester brass as the others have that little too thick rim, and the action will not close.

The thickness and diameter of the rim really does matter to some rifles- especially if they have been "adjusted" in the past.

I would not try to close the bolt and chamber comletely as head space dimensions may not let it - so just work it to se eif it all stays together untilt he ejector gets it.
 
So, I was fiddling a bit more this evening. I have some Prvi Partizan ammo here, and was comparing with it. Sure enough, the rim is thicker and the base diameter is larger.

As I was cycling it [never closed the bolt on the loaded ammo] I never was able to get it to not work right. When I put it into the bolt face directly while holding the bolt in my hands, it had a very positive click, and was held much more firmly.

So I then played with the winchester brass again. I found one piece that consistently fell out of the grip of the claw, so I measured it. 0.470' diameter, and 0.051" rim thickness.

I pulled the bolt out and inserted this brass into the bolt face. It was very loose. It didn't click into place either.

So I think that solves the mystery. The Winchester brass is too small, and some pieces are way too small and cause ejection problems.

Thanks Baribal and everyone else for helping.:cheers:
 
Update in regards to my Dad's Parker Hale where the extractor would drop the case after it came about 1/3 of the way out of the chamber.

Was at the farm yesterday and installed the NEW FN98 extractor. Filled the magazine, cycled the bolt. It works like a CHARM. NO modifications needed.

Best 58.00 plus tax and shipping spent on that rifle.

CYCBB
 
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