My Lead Smelting Setup

Here's what I would consider the gospel from the keyboard of someone who has forgotten more about casting than I will ever know:

".............It is true that the constituents of a true solution, just like a lead-tin-antimony alloy can be, will NOT weight segregate in the pot while molten.

However, you WILL loose metal through oxidation if you skim off the surface and do not flux. If you have good clean ingots and melt them, what are you skimming off? Where does this 'skin' come from and what is it made up of? It's metal oxide, and since tin has the lowest melting point, it is the first to oxidize in the presence of oxygen.

Lots of chemical reactions take place at an elevated rate when heated. Take water for example. A container of it set out will slowly loose volume due to evaporation, which you can't see. Raise the temp to 212* and you'll see it happening at a violent rate.

Lead kept outside will form a white powdery crust over time and this is lead oxide. Oxygen is a fantastic reducer and is very energetic. Very simply, heat excites the atoms of whatever is heated, and makes it much easier for oxygen to do what it does to various objects."

So tin loss is another reason to flux, and also to keep the melt temp to "just high enough" - this keeps the zinc "turds" in the dross and minimizes the amount of tin that can oxidized and lost.

This is good to know, but might be moot to me. It seems like the proportion lost would be very small since I have a pot that holds over 75 lbs of molten metal and I ladle out about 40 lbs into ingots between fluxings and dross removal. I flux again in my 20 lb bottom pour, and add 2% tin anyways.
 
Refined Process

I have refined the process I use and now "pre-sort" the wheelweights.

I take the raw wheelweights and dump them on the garage floor. I then take shovel-fulls and pour them onto a heavy screen over an empty bucket. I then go through them by hand and sort them into three categories:

- clamp-on wheelweights;
- stick-on wheelweights (pure lead); and
- trash (e.g. paper, rubber, bolts, etc.)

The dust falls into the empty bucket and I end up with a much cleaner melt, much less smoke, etc.

Wheelweight_Strainer.jpg


Stick_On_Wheelweights.jpg


Sorted_Wheelweights.jpg
 
Another Fine Evening's Work

Smelted about 350 lbs of Wheelweight and 150 lbs of lead last night. It's getting more and more difficult to find lead and I'm about at a life-time supply, so aside from some pure lead that I could still use more of, this might be it (for a while anyways). My straining tool broke right at the end of the session, so maybe that's a sign. ;)

A few pics of the results follows:

The Raw Lead (pipe and stick-on WW's)

Raw_Lead.jpg


The Raw WW (clamp-on WW's)

Raw_WW.jpg


The Ingot Molds I Use (4 1/2 lb, 2 1/4 lb and 3/4 lb)

Ingot_Molds.jpg


Lead Ingots (shinier and "bluish")

Lead_Ingots.jpg


WW Ingots

WW_Ingots.jpg
 
Last edited:
Andy: You are right about the getting harder to find WW's. I have been to my local suppliers and all with the exception of one told me that they no longer can supply me with weights at any price. I had one shop actually show me a memo from head office stating that they were now "environmentally friendly" and could only sell WW's to a licensed re-cycler. I still have one shop that sells them to me but gone are the days when you would get the look at the front counter of "You want what?" "Your kidding, the used WW's" go help yourself. I think it is a combination of lead/copper/brass etc. metal prices going thru the roof and the enviro-Nazi's that have hit hard and will only get worse. I just want to add to avoid the Import car type tire shops that specialize and cater to the Rice Burner/lawn mower sounding muffler crowd. All WW's in Europe are Zinc and have been for a number of years and most of the ones in these type of stores have a really high amount of zinc weights. I have a high temp. thermometer and keep the lead temp at 650 deg F (don't know the C deg) and you don't have to worry about zinc. I shoot lots of muzzle loaders so I do the same as you and separate all the different weights out. You don't have to get elaborate when you first start, I had a 1 burner electric hot plate that I got from a garage sale for 3 bucks and a pot and a muffin tin. Now I have a similar setup to you only I have converted my burner to Natural Gas and run it off of the bbq hookup and that way I will never run out of propane. I cast about 200 1 pound ingots for a season and keep them in 2 5 gallon buckets. The rest I cast into an old cast iron bread mold that weighs 25 pounds full of lead. I have the whole back of my garage lined two deep and 10 high of beautiful lead bricks the size of a loaf of bread, somewhere around 4000 pounds. I have enough lead to last me the rest of my life and my kids and theres also yet I am still scrounging for more because I see that the gig will finally be up in about 5 years and we wont be able to buy lead anywhere without some stupid permit like in Europe. I just hope I don't have to move, lots to carry if I do.
 
Andy..and all others that keep feeding this thread
thanks for all the updates/pics,and great info you keep pumping in here:D..
im almost set to try my first batch of ww..
i was just informed the other day..that i should have a good supply of ww from a trucking outfit..
i,ll post a few pics on how it goes..but first i have to get my hunting seasons over with first
 
If you have a good supply of WW now, don't wait until you're set up to collect them - get them now! They keep forever (literally), but keep them absolutely dry.

A full 5 gal bucket will weigh 150-175 lbs and will yield about 120-150 lbs of ingots (depends on how much junk is in there). Sort ahead of time and separate clamp-on WW (the vast majority of the stuff), stick-on, and junk (garbage, stems, weights marked "Zn" or "Fe"). The ones you miss will be "floaters" and can be skimmed off the melt.

Depending on what you shoot, it can last a little, or a long time. 1000 125gr 9mm bullets will require about 18 lbs of WW. Do that every week, and you need almost 1000 lbs a year! 100 500gr 45 cal rifle bullets use about 7 lbs. Do that once a month and you use about 100 lbs a year.
 
I used two 10 lb Lee bottom pour pots for my "smelting" operation. The older one I reserved for melting wheelweights and/or lino and the newer one for casting. I recently bought one of the bigger Lee pots (I 've forgotten the size) and will use it for initial melting. I flux often at all stages. I use mostly good old Marvelux, but do use "toilet ring" wax too. I use the small muffin tins for moulds. I like doing this and get a kick out of reading about some methods and setups. Some guys seem to get a bit "hyper" about their operations, don't they??:p:p
 
I've also used scrap lead from Coen's in Ottawa with tin-lead solder as a hardening agent. Works fairly well and the unsmelted lead scrap (pure lead mostly) is not that expensive.
 
well I know where there is a pile of lead and copper from an indoor range, mixed with sand, wood chips and some rocks, that would just love to be smelted down and made into ingots. I bet that you could even have it for free. There is probably at least 1500lbs of lead in the pile.
 
Be careful with range lead. I was given some a couple of years ago and as I was melting it down and once in a while there was a huge pop and lead flying everywhere. I am not sure what was causing it, maybe something to do with the copper jackets on some of the bullets. I sorted just the pure lead ones out and melted them and all was ok.
 
Be careful with range lead. I was given some a couple of years ago and as I was melting it down and once in a while there was a huge pop and lead flying everywhere. I am not sure what was causing it, maybe something to do with the copper jackets on some of the bullets. I sorted just the pure lead ones out and melted them and all was ok.

Yea, I've been there. Was likely some mositure trapped in a crevice between jacket and lead. I salvage range lead, but only my own cast bullets. I simply do my all my shooting that session into the same place in the berm, and dig where my bullets disturbed the earth. Our berms are made of sand, and I use a minnow trap from Canadian Tire as a strainer to separate sand from bullets. I usually get at least 60% back, and I know what I'm getting. That alone better than doubles the life of my stash.
 
Last edited:
also the possibility of live rounds in the lead you guys are talking about. I guess if no one wants it I'll see if there are any portable recyclers interested in it.
 
It's not that I'm not interested, it's just that I'm not going get to the lower mainland until next year. and my truck would only haul 1000lbs.
 
also the possibility of live rounds in the lead you guys are talking about. I guess if no one wants it I'll see if there are any portable recyclers interested in it.
Yea, the issue isn't lack of interest. The issue is how to economically get the lead if you don't live in the Lower Mainland. Any savings in reclaiming that range lead would be pretty much lost by the time somebody like me moved them to the other side of the province.

You might post a "come and get it" thread in the CBA's forum - lots of diehard casters in Canada, actually.
 
Ok. I managed to latch onto 5 pails of wheel weights......thanks again redhouse.

Here are the steps I followed to turn them into ingots.

Stuff you need, or at least, stuff I used: full 20lb propane tank, tiger torch, 2 empty 5 gallon steel pails, 6 unilock paving stones (bricks), grinder with cut off wheel, wheel weights...lots and lots of wheel weights, leather gloves, safety glasses, hat, old jacket, old jeans, work boots, dollar store straining ladle (big spoon with holes punched in it which I may refer to as the strainer), staineless steel camping style cup with handle, small lee ingot mold, wifes muffin baking tray (I used one of those ones that makes rectangular mini-loafs). a 3 foot by 5 foot or bigger sheet of cardboard. Several bottles of water (for drinking...this is a hot process and unless it's 0 deg C outside, you won't be cold), 5 hours of your life that you're never going to get back :D

1. Cut the tops off of the 5 gallon steel cans. One for melting and the other for scrap clips and junk comming out of the weights as they melt. Keep in mind, the scrap will be hot. You can use a plastic pail, but put about an inch of gravel/sand/dirt..whatever in the bottom first to help slow down the melting.

2. Set up some bricks in a C shape on the ground the same diameter as the outside of the can

3. Set the can on top and adjust the bricks so that there is just enough opening in the C shape to allow the mouth of a tiger torch to blow flame in. Make sure that the can overlaps the edge of the bricks by at least 3 inches. The bricks are likely to crack during this prolonged heating.

4. Dump about 8 inches of wheel weights iinto your steel can

5. Light up your torch and place it so that most of the flame is going across the bottom of the can, with just a bit of flame pushing up the side. You'll have to block the business end of the torch up a bit to get it just right.

6. While you're waiting for the weights to melt, get the rest of your stuff ready. Mold's, gloves, face mask, eye protection, hat, etc. Bend the stainless steel cup to it has a bit of an oval shape to help in pouring the lead. I'd recommend making your oval point to the opposite side of the handle. Remember, you're working at ground level, and you're not pouring coffee :D

7. Your weights are now melted, the smoke is rolling, everything smells like a burning toxic waste dump. Great, you're doing everything right. Add some more weights until you've got 6-8 inches of molten lead in the can. If you're like me, you've managed to get 4 old valve stems, a few tire lables, and some mechanics wire into the mix. Give the toxic brew a few stirs with your strainer to make sure all the lead is melted.This will also heat up your strainer so the lead will flow though the holes. Keep in mind. The smoke and the slime floating on top of the lead is flamable, and the pail may catch fire at anytime during this process. Make sure your entire body is covered. It'll only burn for a few minutes at most, then it'll go out on its own.
AS SOON AS ALL THE LEAD IS MELTED use your straining ladle and pull out all the junk...steel clips, half burnt valve stems, wire, etc. If you do this quickly, you might just see one or two unmelted weights come out. They're the zinc ones...bad bad bad. Dump this burnt smoking crap in your scrap pail.

8. Make sure your wifes muffin tin and any other molds you're using are on the ground, right next to the cardboard. Don't put them on the cardboard. It acts like an insulator and slows down your solidification. Eventually, after a while, it'll start to smolder as well. Let the ingots solidify on bare ground.

9. Take your stainless steel cup and reach it into the pail. Use the lip of the cup to pull back the slime (dross) on top of the lead and submerge it in the lead and pull yourself out a cup full.

10. Pour into the molds. Several cup fulls for a full muffin tin.

11. While waiting for this to cool, add more wheel weights to the mix. Put them in SLOWLY!!!! No "Air Jordan" slam dunks unless you like being splashed with scaulding hot lead.
*****WARNING******DANGER DANGER DANGER WILL ROBINSON****DANGER****** If you throw in a weight that has water on it, or wet anything for that matter, boiling hot lead will....not might.....it WILL come flying out of your melting pot with great velocity. This is the infamous steam explosion everyone talks about. The slightest drop of water will cause this.
Now, I'll share one of those "walking the razors edge" dangerous tricks. If you're dumping weights right from the bucket...which you should NEVER do, but, if you do,:rolleyes: keep the bucket you're dumping from very close to, and covering as much of the top of the melting pot as possible. When it blows lead upward, it hits the bucket and goes either back in the pot, or off to the sides. Again, this is a VERY dangerous practice, and WILL have molten lead flying around sooner or later. Every one of my pails of weights had a bit of water in the bottom (probably somebodys coffee). The last bucket had about 5 pounds of well saturated weights in the bottom of it. I just threw them, and the whole bucket away.

12. While waiting for your new batch of weights to melt, start poking around the mold. Once the lead is solid, dump them on the cardboard. No, it won't burst in to flames, but it might smoke a tiny bit. If the ingots stick in your pan, drop it, upside down a few times. If you get one that's really stuck, just leave it, and work around it. I had one stuck right from the get go, and had to live with it throught the entire pour. It wasn't worth wrecking the rest of the pan over one hole that I couldn't fill.

13. Go back to step 7 and repeat.

Disclaimer: First, I am NOT responsible for your safety. If you do this, you're going to get hurt and/or die. Your entire family might get hurt and die, maybe even the entire town you live in. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!!!!!! Don't come back saying I left out a step or told you to do something that caused an accident. I've got many years of experience working with nasty stuff like this, an some things just come automatically to me, and I might have left something out. Again, AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!

Now that that's overwith :D

Footnotes: Do this in a VERY open area, not your garage, not right beside your wifes new car, her pet cat......well, maybe the cat, but definately NOT the dog or kids.....etc. There WILL be some splattered lead. There is just no avoiding it. Obviously, you're going to do this on bare ground, and not your freshly paved driveway. Do it on a day that you have a slight breeze. There's going to be smoke, it stinks, it's VERY bad for you...don't stand inline with the smoke. Don't get your melting pot half full of molten lead. If a brick cracks and collapses, it'll make a hell of a big mess, and it's much more dangerous than working with 6-8 inches or so in the pot. If you're using the stainless steel cup as a dipper its safer. Just in case you lost your mind....the fumes got to you....whatever......the cup will hit the bottom of the melting can before your whole gloved hand is submerged in boiling hot lead. Try and keep the level around 6-8 inches.
This WILL destroy your wifes muffin tin...give up on the idea of saving it...it'll be bent to hell and contaminated with lead. Throw everything away when you're done. Muffin tin, gloves, pants, jacket, hat,straining ladle...etc....basically, anything that has lead on it, chuck it. You don't want to be dragging that stuff into your house. Of course, keep the tiger torch and propane tank unless you're really edgy about it, in which case you can give them to me :D

I've now got enough bulk lead to last me for years to come. I don't know how much the pile of ingots weights, but it's at least a few hundred pounds.

I don't add flux to the mix, because I do that when I'm doing my final cast. The ingots look clean, and I'm happy with them. I've already cast 700+ very nice 170 grain .308 bullets with em, and they look great.

Feel free to add your thoughts.
 
Last edited:
I actually found no real separation of the base metals. The only thing I was pulling out as scrap were the clips, and the other obvious bits and pieces..valve stems, sand, a few pieces of wire. The bullets I cast with the lead are plenty hard. I did it at night, so maybe the moon was in the right phase for me ??? :D
 
Back
Top Bottom