My new CZ. Scope suggestions
- Thread starter Tinybear
- Start date
I ended up with a VX-Freedom 3-9x40, not rimfire specific, no paralax adjustment, shoots fantastic and duraseal gopher target head shots from 20 - 75 yards. I think there is too much emphasis put on paralax depending what you will do with your rifle. If your goal is to shoot the same hole at 50 yards then sure buy the 6-50x adjustable paralax scope and have at it. If you are shooting gophers and grouse etc typically at lower power then I don't think you will notice anything, poor shooting habits will impact inaccuracy as much as anything.
I have a CZ 455 Canadian I put in a KRG Bravo chassis to save the nice red stock. On top is a Vortex PST Gen II 5-25x50 scope. For bench shooting I am usually at 15-20 as I find 25 power a bit blurry. Shooting anything from 25 + but usually at 80-100 yards.
Just returned from shooting gophers in Saskatchewan from where I grew up and found I was way over scoped. Dialed it back to 5 power for 90% of my shots which did range out past 100 yards with the longest at 150 yds. Found it nice and bright with no issues. The parallax adjustment works well down to 25 - 30 yards.
My friend had a Savage and he spent more time with his knife digging shells out due to extraction issues. His Savage shot well but he is going to sell it and buy a CZ. Not one extraction issue and I shot over 800 rounds over 3 days.
Just returned from shooting gophers in Saskatchewan from where I grew up and found I was way over scoped. Dialed it back to 5 power for 90% of my shots which did range out past 100 yards with the longest at 150 yds. Found it nice and bright with no issues. The parallax adjustment works well down to 25 - 30 yards.
My friend had a Savage and he spent more time with his knife digging shells out due to extraction issues. His Savage shot well but he is going to sell it and buy a CZ. Not one extraction issue and I shot over 800 rounds over 3 days.
Well, first I want to quantify it because the visible effect will be different depending on the power setting of the scope and the distance to your target. I do that by stabilizing my rifle (in this case with a bi-pod on the front and sandbag at the bag) with the crosshairs centre on my target. When I move my head around slightly I'll get a sense of how much deflection parallax is causing with that set up. If it's not too extreme I typically don't worry about it if it's minute of groundhog. If I'm going for precision, as I was when I was shooting those groups for the challenge, I am very careful to make sure my cheek weld is exactly the same from shot to shot.
If a shooter doesn't know parallax is even present, they're likely not going to get great precision. If they do, and know how to manage it, it certainly can be done.
It's not rocket surgery.
I also believe, as someone else said, that concern about parallax is somewhat overblown unless you're an extreme precision BR competitor. For hunting and plinking with a 22lr the distances just aren't great enough for it to actually matter much.
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It's not a bad thing; they do what they say on the tin. They're just not a necessary thing. Tens of thousands of hunters and shooters have done just fine without them over the years.
