my new hobbie in reloading has me a little confused.

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Just purchased a Lyman deluxe reloading kit with a few other accessories I need to reload my own brass. Currently I am only interested in reloading .308. I think I have a general understanding of brass cleaning, trimming it to size, de-priming, and resizing, re-priming, powder charging procedure. But what I don’t understand is what depth you seat your bullet. Sorry for the stupid question but safety first and I don’t plan on charging any brass until I have a very firm understanding of what I am going.
Do you seat the bullet for a certain COAL?
Does each bullet have a different COAL?
I currently have .308 155Grain 168gr Berger VLD bullets and 168Grain Hornady A Max bullets.

And help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Go on to Hodgdon`s website and type in your caliber/ powder choice/ grain of bullet and whoa laaaa, it gives you safe to max load and OAL and the pressures.
 
you should consider taking up spelling as another "hobbie" :p

jk

you can sign up here
Code:
http://ammoguide.com/
for a free membership and see cartridge diagrams etc. They want you to pay for load data but still a very useful sight.
Happy reloading!
 
Surrey to far to invite you over for coffee.
Is this for competition?
Your aware there will be a different charge for different bullets weights.
You have some reading to do. http://www.6mmbr.com/308Win.html Your Tac Ramshot is on there.
Then you need to make what I call dummy rounds. Thats where there is no powder in the case because we are finding the distance to the lands for bullet seating. We do this with each bullet weight!! Then this info is recorded. I write it on the dummy round with a sharpie. I actually found a utube video of how to find what bullet seating depth your cartridge takes.
fart sack time
 
your lyman kit probably came with a manual. The manual has a safe maximum COAL which you can use.

When you get into fiddling more with accuracy there are ways and tools to measure where the rifling starts in your barrel and you can then seat the bullet just shy of that which results in the best accuracy.
 
The "safe" COAL is one that doesn't compress the powder unless it's listed as a compressed load and which fits in the magazine and chambers in the chamber.
The old rule of thumb used for over 100 years is that 1-2 bullet diameters are seated into the case. So for a .30" bullet you would want .30" to .60" of the bullet shank (so ignore any boat tail portions or whatnot) inside the case. I have followed this and never had any issues.
Unless you are right at the maximum pressure already, seating a bullet a little further into the case wont be dangerous in the least. Of course compressing the powder should be avoided unless a loading manual says it's supposed to be compressed. Not all powders are sensitive to compression but some are dangerously so.
For short necked cases where the neck is shorter than one bullet diameter like the 300WM I just make sure I seat at least the entire depth of the neck.
 
...I've been told that for building match ammo (for bolt action rifles) one seats the bullet so that the ogive is touching the lands of the rifling.

FWIW

Depends on what the particular rifle prefers. Some like it touching, some like it a couple thousands off the lands, others give best results with the bullet seated 15-30+ thousands off the lands. It's something you need to experiment with to determine for each rifle.
 
Use loads for bullet weight, not necessarily your specific bullet. Start at minimum load and work up to max, stopping when pressure signs show or you are happy with grouping. Get a couple of manuals read them, then reread them.
 
Try and find someone local who can walk you thru the actual process. That and reading the instructional sections of reloading manuals will go a long way in getting you up to speed.

Lot of small nitty details to grasp...

I buy a headspace gage for any cartridge I reload. Helps with die adjustment setup and to help ensure the resized brass (and finished cartridge) will fit your chamber with proper headspace.

http://www.budgetshootersupply.ca/frame.cfm?ItemID=663&CategoryID=103

ht tp://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/case-gauges-headspace-tools/wilson-case-gauge-prod33287.aspx
 
Max 'book' COAL is determined by what can normally be fed through the action without jamming, eg in the magazine. That's the longest it can be and still feed properly in a repeating rifle.

Max 'practical' COAL varies with each rifle as it depends how far into the barrel the bullet can go without touching the rifling. (Some want it to touch, others want it not to. That's another issue. It cannot in any case be longer; seat it further and the rifling will generally shove it back into the case, which is bad. (There's a caveat to that. The shape of different bullets will allow some to go further into the barrel than others before contacting the rifling. The max practical COAL thus differs for each rifle and each bullet.)

LUTNIT's point about theoretical depth of seating is reasonable. Look at the neck of your casing against a bullet. There's no point in seating it so far in that the bearing surface of the bullet is below the neck. (There are other problems with that, but bear with me.) On the other end, seating it so shallow that it's not stable or secure is obviously foolish.

Seating a bullet too far in can raise chamber pressure, so particularly when you're learning, it's better to seat a bit long than too short. The problem is worse in smaller rounds, generally, but a bad idea for any round. Obviously a long bullet will have more protruding than a short one. It's how much volume inside the loaded case that's full of bullet (vice propellent or just air) that matters.

The bullet wants to be at least far enough in that it will be held firmly, yet not so far in as to raise pressure to a dangerous level, nor yet again so long as to be pushed back by the rifling. It gives you a range of seating depths, if you follow my drift.

So...

Start off with a reloading manual. One of the ones by the major companies like Lyman, Sierra, Hornady, etc will have a good coverage of bullets and powders. Start loading at the bottom end of the recommended loads and go for a 'ladder test' - load five rounds, then increase the load by a bit and load five more. Repeat. You wind up with a series of slightly-different loads, with the amount of propellent being the only difference. Go to the range and test fire. Watch for signs of high pressure (again, your manual will explain those). When you start getting them, stop and recycle those rounds and all others with more propellent in them. (Recycle = pull bullet, return propellent to the jar, etc). In any case, approach the manual's recommended max load with great caution.

You will get one, maybe two loads that produce better groups than the rest. Start playing with the amount of propellent in smaller increments until you find the best one. That will probably be accurate enough for most purposes. For maximum accuracy, you then start adjusting depth of seating (you also start treating each case like a princess, but that, too, is another story.)
 
...I've been told that for building match ammo (for bolt action rifles) one seats the bullet so that the ogive is touching the lands of the rifling.

FWIW


I dont think its a good idea to be suggesting to a rookie to do this! Too many things can go wong. As a minimum, for a hunting rifle, you dont want a bullet inadvertently jamming in the lands when trying to unload a rifle...

To the OP - go for 2.75 inches overall length, if there is no cannelure. When you become more proficient at loading you can try getting closer to the lands. On a related issue, you dont need to find an exact recipe for your reloads. Once you've got the powder found, you only need to match bullet weight for load guidance. The performance of any load varies from gun to gun, which is why you are encouraged to start at minimum load and work up. If you dont know how to read pressure signs, give yourself some margin and stay away from published max.
 
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Use loads for bullet weight, not necessarily your specific bullet.

While this is generally what is done, one should be careful to pay attention to bullet shape/design. If one bullet of a particular weight sits deeper into the case than another bullet of the same weight at the same coal, it can cause an increase in pressures. Same as if it has a longer bearing surface or if they use a slightly different jacket alloy, etc.

If you can find data for the same bullet you're using , it's preferable.
 
Savage , the Vld is a very long bullet, I know on the box it says you will have to adjust your OAL perhaps contacting Berger and getting any specs from them would be helpful. I would start out loading exactly what your reloading manual is showing, bullet, powder, primer and overall sizing , till you get comfortable with it .It is a good Idea to have a couple of data sources just in case there is a typo/ mistake in one you can verify from the other with out having to worry about blowing up a nice action while your face is a few centimetres from it.

Cheers . Mil Specs
 
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