my "new" m1

M

Mobius1

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bought this last sunday at a gun show in san jose. SA complete (as far as i can tell)

7-1943 reciever
5-194(either 5,S, or 9) SA barrel
SA stamped Op rod
SA stamped bolt
SA stamped safety
SA stamped trigger guard
there is a P and a cresent moon shape stamped on lock on the gas chamber
she's in a new boyds stock
TE of ~2.6 MW of less then 1
rifling is sharp and bore is like a mirror

reciever
right side
her "character"
 
Last edited:
parts

Thats an SA gas cylinder for sure but the lock is incorrect for the serial
range. Not a big deal and it probably doesnt matter to you. That
"high hump" locks for use w/ the M7 grenade launcher and its post ww2.
 
WW2GURU said:
Thats an SA gas cylinder for sure but the lock is incorrect for the serial
range. Not a big deal and it probably doesnt matter to you. That
"high hump" locks for use w/ the M7 grenade launcher and its post ww2.
Click to expand...

thanks for that tid bit of info, can it easily be corrected or does it really matter? that also makes me think the barel is stamped 1949 and not 1945.
 
Oh yeah thats easy. The part is readily available if you look in the
right corners of the net. If the rifle was rebuilt in 49 it could easily have been upgraded. I'm not sure when the high hump lock started being installed.
 
if its been upgraded does it mean it can take more of a punishment? and every time i work the action it sounds like nails on a chalk board i'm thinking its the op rod sping rubbing, is it normal or should i replace it?
 
Look for three things:

1) look at the oprod where it passes through the handguard retainer - is ti rubbing? If so, you might have a bent oprod.
2) Remove the gas cylinder and look at the stainless steel op rod gas plunger - is it scored or rubbing unevenly in the cylinder? Does the inside of the gas cylinder show excessive wear to one side or the other?
3) look at the recoil spring - are the edges wearing flat? If they're not still basically rounded on the edges, you need a new spring. also, GENEROUSLY lubricate the spring with a grease like Lubriplate or White Lithium grease.
 
1) it does not appear to be rubbing
2) i dont have the combo tool yet, i'm going to get one soon
3) where is the recoil spring?


thanks for the help guys
 
took the M1 to the range today and it was great, she was a better shooter then me. it was fine for the first 3 bandoliers (i used new production American Eagle 150 grain) but on the next clip my dad wanted to shoot her. on his second shot it fired twice in 1 trigger pull. it was either my fault for over greasing or it was a slam fire. (i think it was the grease) i had him eject the next round, when i checked it it was hit by the firing pin but not set off. After i figure out/fix the sights(the elevation jumps foward after each shot) and get it zero'd its off to a 200 yr range:D
 
The double probably wasn't the fault of the grease, unless you greased up the entire trigger group including the trigger sear. Light oil only in the trigger group and NONE on the sear!!! The double was likely caused by shooting off a bench and milking (very easily squeezing) the trigger. Not all that uncommon. The trigger of an M1 should be held firm on firing, if it's released too soon a double can and will result from the recoil. The dimple on the primer is also common when a round is chambered. You have a free floating firing pin. Be sure that you've completely cleaned the bolt (disassembly required) and there is absolutly no grease or oil on the firing pin. This can attract dirt and moisture, jam the pin and you will have an out of battery firing (slam fire). YOU REALLY DON'T WANT THAT! I can't recomend enough that you find a good book, maybe one by Scott Duff, learn your rifle well, do a complete detail strip, clean and lube properly! Once you take the needed steps you'll find the M1 to be an excellent, accurate and fun rifle. I have many M1's, they are all the same but they are all quite different. Enjoy your new M1!

HTH,

rifle guy
 
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