My Precision Rifle built from parts in the EE

yodave

yodave

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I didn't really build it, I just put all of the pieces togeather. Forgive me if I miss any of you as the list is long but it goes something like this...

Sinclair stock- Boom-Boom
barreled action in 30x44- TangoKilo
leupold qrw bases- P of P and D
Leupold pqw rings (not on yet) Ab Hobbyist
Weaver T36 scope- Yoemans
lapua brass (originally 308) Jerry
134 Ballistic Idiot Bullets- Dennis Sorrenson
powder and primers- sammyboy

okay here she is
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Starting some load developement and shooting five shot groups at 100 yards. The best target of the day is far from any pressure signs and I am going to try again with some more powder behind those 134 grain BiB bullets.
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Not saying what it cost me, but by rough estimates I figure I am about 30 percent of building it from all new parts. Seeing that the barrel only saw 200 rounds before I got it it really is basically new lol, thanks TangoKilo for doing the tedious breakin' lol:D:D
 
Yodave,

You missed the dime with every shot... Ha ha!
Very nice. You have some vertical in the group. At a benchrest match you would be advised to increase the powder charge.

NormB
 
Nice group.

Does anyone else get the urge to build a stock out of lego? I think it's the blue on that custom stock pictured above that's causing this urge :D
 
thanks guys

Thanks for the comments, I know I have to add more powder to shrink the group, I started loaded really low, 75% of case capacity. It is not easy to find any data for the 30x44 so I am using Load From a Disk to get data, as most of you know the calculations this program uses case capacity in grains of water and bullet weight/barrel length to give powder weights and capacities. I am starting out with H335 but would like to experiment with 125 grain bullets and Benchmark or IMR 4198. These two powders might be a tad to fast for this case. It is a frontier of reloading that opens a few more doors and causes faster hair loss :D

Any useful 30x44 data will be documented though, if anyone stumbles on some :D
 
groupys

That group was with 37 grains of H335, I should be able to get close to 41-42 before I start seeing pressure signs. I started low because the program gave me 34.6 grains as the optimum load, I know from experience that a couple grains back from max is usually the sweet spot but when calculating powder charge by the case capacity and barrel length/bullet weight I though I would play it safe. Tomorrow is another day at the bench and then to the range. I hope to shrink that group in half, then I can start pushing out to the 500 meter mark.
 
When you find your highest node, I would go back down a gr or two and add powder in 2 tenth increments and shoot 3 or 4rds. If conditions are steady/calm, you will start to see that group shrink and rotate - some call it clocking.

When the group is like a sideways football, go up by 1 tenths until the groups start to show a vertical element. Go back to the highest load that was horizontal. Shoot several groups to confirm orientation and group size. Voila, you have your load.

Keep an eye on temp and ambient conditions so you can adjust your powder amount when temps go up. H335 is horridly temp sensitive and will be the same effect as increasing your powder charge as ambient temp goes up.

You know from the testing above, how sensitive your rifle is to load changes. You have to cut back on your powder to suit the temp.

Big reason I use the Extreme line. Way more stable and I can usually just shoot all season long without much fuss.

Getting rid of vertical is paramount to LR success.

Great looking rig. Enjoy the fun...

Jerry
 
Thanks Jerry, I also prefer the Extreme powders for the same reasons. I haven't got much data for this little case and there isn't much out there. I know that 30-40 grains of varget with the same bullet would work and never create enough pressure to cause any concern. I am a big fan of benchmark but haven't got anything to go off of for a starting load. N135 is also a really good powder for the 30x44, either way its a fun little build to play with :D
I love the blue and might have to get my bases and rings painted in an auto shop, the contrast between the stainless, silver and metallic blue is awesome.
 
yodave, isn't the 30X44 almost the same as a 300Savage in case capacity?

given the volumes you quote, it would fall right in there. Albeit you will run at higher pressures but you should be able to use 300Savage info safely.

You also should be able to find 30X47Lapua load info on sites like 6mmbr.com. Just don't load as hot.

Jerry
 
It is pretty easy to form 30x44 from 300 savage brass, with the exception of availability. I have made all of my brass from lapua 308 brass, moved the shoulder way back and reamed out with a 30 cal reamer. The 30x44 has a case capacity of 46.675 grains of water and the 300 Sav has a capacity of 43.331. Not sure about the 30x47 Lapua though. So since the case capacity is so close I could use the 300 Sav data, should I be higher or lower then the max listed for the 300 when I am at the top end of my load scale? Jerry you didn't just open a door there, you boot it open :D, I think I have to order more bullets and powder and take another week off :D
 
you can safely use the max 300sav load data and go up from there. Reason is the 300sav is old school with pressures in the 45,000ish psi range (just look at the load data and pressure ratings).

Modern cartridges in nice modern actions are running 65000 and up.

Another easier and I feel better option for brass is to fireform 22/250 cases. I am using Win cases in my upcoming 6mm Mystic project. I use lots of Win brass and they are superb/very strong.

When you neck down a full length case like the 308, you are into the 'fat' brass and reaming is critical. However, if you don't ream/neck turn accurately, you end up with really lousy brass.

Then you have to anneal properly to return ALL the cases to the same neck tension. Without the proper measuring and machining tools, you are really going in circles. could explain some of the stringing too.

If you want to try using 22/250 brass, just size the case as you would with the 308 to form the false shoulder. The case will look kind of bumpy but that goes away after fireforming. Trim as necessary.

I use pistol powder behind Cream of wheat or cornmeal so no bullets are needed. Cheap and easy.

Jerry
 
I have got the reamers and neck turners as well as all the calipers so this is not a big deal really. The lapua brass was actully annealed down past the shoulder when I got them making the forming even easier, then I ream the neck of the case, this is actually leaving me a concentric 16 thou thick neck. I am pretty sure the virticle stringing is from low velocity, I am still a good five grains below possable pressure signs. The program listed 34.6 as the optimum load so I worked to grains each way of that, I knew I was low because recoil was almost non excistant, although a pleasure to shoot a inch and a half group just didn't cut it. Knowing what it is capable of I am sure I just have to get more speed and it will come togeather. The wind is howling here today so I am at the reloading bench preparing for calmer days. When I get up to 40-41 grains I will post the results. Thanks for the tip on the 300 sav data though Jerry, gives me something to study. I want to try some 125 grain pills eventually. I just have to settle on a couple bullets first.
 
Where did you get that stock from? Can you please confirm the make and model? I have been hunting around on the internet and have not been successful finding more information about.

Great looking rifle!!!
 
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