My Redone M38 mosin nagant with circa 1850 tung oil

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Tyockell18

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So I decided to redo one of the stocks on my m38 mosin nagants. The stock shellac was ruined and many major dings, some got filled with amber shellac stick and one got steamed out a bit.

Went with the razor blade scrape method followed by iso alcohol and 0000 steel wool. Then I did three coats of circa 1850 tung oil.

It's the top one, Compared to the other all original m38 below.

People on here were saying to just leave it as it will hurt value but that's what the other one if for, this one is going to be the regular shooter.

So YAY, or NAY?


 
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Sorry but it looks buffed, cleaned and redone. Not many military rifles look like that. Too clean and raw.


My opinion only, others love this look.
 
All that matters is that you like the appearance.

Threads like these are worthless if you're seeking some sort of validation of your actions generally, as opinions are like armpits.

You could always shellac over the oil finish if you're having regrets. Shellac is incredibly easy to work with if you mix your own (Don't get the stuff from the big box stores, as you need the de waxed variety).

You can buy dry shellac flakes of various colours and mix your own. Find the source of flakes online from a Canadian distributor called "woodessence.com", and practice on a scrap piece of wood before you do your stock.
 
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Looks fine although I prefer the shellac.
All these Russians (Mosins, SKSs) are commodity priced. In the last 2 months SVT has sold for $199 (299), M44 for $199 (349) and M38 for $299 (650). Prices in parenthesis were the going rate. Perhaps 50 years from now they will be worth something but their value today depends on when the next boat shows up (or doesn't).
I have got "collectable" ones for $179 (1928,1931,1932) and paid a small premium for others at Westrifle. If you are lucky you will get back what you paid for them. Right now they just aren't rare enough to worry about diminished value. If a commercial enterprise starts cutting them down by the thousands like the Enfields then it might be different. There aren't enough bubba's out there to make a difference.
Your gun - do want you want.
 
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These were from the TradeEx sale? $239? Nice rifles... they both look good. I would have tried to get the top one a little darker, if possible.

I have a beat up M44 stock that I may consider refinishing. Haven't cleaned the gallon of cosmo yet so I don't know how bad it is. I'm certain yours was better off to start.

M44a0001_zpsad4ec28d.jpg


M440001_zpsc73a6b9f.jpg
 
Value schmalue, they are $150-$200 guns.
I'm torn between wanting to strip and stain mine, and wanting to keep the history that all the gouges and scratches show.
I look at the scratches on the side of the butt and think of some Russian guy carrying it in 1940 something with the stock scratching on something on his belt(I'm short and I do it too!)
 
Russian Mosin = Shellac

Cool thing about shellac, you can clean it with shellac solvent, or clean scratches with newly mixed shellac. Brilliant stuff, really.
 
Not really looking for validation, I like the way it turned out. I was more just curious about peoples opinions on the matter is all.

If it was the only m38 I had I probably would have left it alone, but I have that nice original one from dealer weimajack "thanks!", so I decided to redo the beat up one.

infideleggwelder said:
i like the oil for a shooter cause it doesn't chip and scrape off like shellac. scraped shellac looks like hell. i would have used linseed oil. but looks good
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My sentiments exactly. I was going to use linseed oil but chose the tung oil because apparently it fills the pores of the wood and polymerizes which offers good protection where as linseed oil will keep getting washed and rubbed out and needs to be reapplied.

Tung oil is also a million times easier to touch up then shellac, I don't know about you guys but trying to find an exact match in colour, and getting it layered thin enough and buffing it properly without damaging the older brittle shellac around it is a pain in the arse.
 
I like the job you did on the stock, the only thing different that I would have done is apply a little red stain to it prior to the oil so it had the proper coloring. I'm a fan of usung oil for the ease of application, durability and maintenance.
 
haretrigger said:
Try some 0000 extra fine steel wool with a drop or two of Hoppes oil on it. Usually that will knock down the jellybean finish, or you can try thinning out your shellac with a bit more alcohol.

I love bug puke for my Russian rifles!
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I second this. Makes that nice matte colour. Make sure not to soak the wool with the hoppes, just a few drops.

As for all of you complaining about flaking on the rifle. Just brush some alcohol on the flakes and it will liven the shellac up again and incorporate it back into the stock. Or just do as the russians do, keep on applying it, slather it. No need to put a layer or two on, and if you want to get a dark stock quick, put some shellac in a bowl and wait till some of the alcohol evaporates out a bit or make a more concentrated mix with the alcohol and flakes.

Very easy stuff to work with, and if you make a mistake it is very forgiving. Just put some alcohol on there (or buff if you got drippage) and start again. What a wonderful finish.
 
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