My Tika T3 lite kicks a lot (30.06) - do I get a muzzle break?

Kryogen said:
Every person is different. And recoil will hurt a skinny guy more than a large guy.
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Wrong. Skinny guys roll with the recoil, big guys soak it up. It's all inertia.

You have to modify your technique to handle recoil. When I developed loads for my 416 Rigby I did so standing shooting over a round bale turned on it's end. This is very similar to the way the Brits regulate double rifles (though their method is somewhat more refined). When I developed the loads for my 470 NE I did it shooting over cross sticks which resulted in more recoil.

Suggesting that a person fill the stock cavity of a lightweight hunting rifle with lead shot (thereby adding 3-4 lbs of weight to the rifle) is asinine and akin to the old "wipin' before you poop" routine by Larry the Cable Guy. Paul gave solid advice on Page 1 when he suggested dropping down to lighter weight bullets. Several other posters have suggested using a recoil shield like the PAST (I have the magnum one and it's great) which is very good advice.

Using a Lead Sled is terrible advice. The Lead Sled places an inordinate amount of stress on the stock of the rifle which causes POI shift, added stress on optics and potential stock failure. A much better solution is to use the recoil shield, shoot from a more upright position and, once the POI is confirmed, move away from the bench and practice from field positions. Also, you could (and would be well advised to) step down to cheap 150gr generic ammo for practice and save your handloads or premium factory ammo for hunting.
 
I have to agree with sheephunter, a brake and ear plugs will help a lot! Although your best option is most likely to trade it for an other rifle that is a little heavier in weight and choose a caliber with less recoil. A 308, 7-08 or 270 will work fine for hunting and recoil less that the '06.
Recoil ft/lbs ....30-06 around 20ft/lbs, 308 around 18ft/lbs, 270win around16.5ft/lbs, and (7mm-08 around 12ft/lbs) of recoil.
 
BigUglyMan said:
Wrong. Skinny guys roll with the recoil, big guys soak it up. It's all inertia.

You have to modify your technique to handle recoil. When I developed loads for my 416 Rigby I did so standing shooting over a round bale turned on it's end. This is very similar to the way the Brits regulate double rifles (though their method is somewhat more refined). When I developed the loads for my 470 NE I did it shooting over cross sticks which resulted in more recoil.

Suggesting that a person fill the stock cavity of a lightweight hunting rifle with lead shot (thereby adding 3-4 lbs of weight to the rifle) is asinine and akin to the old "wipin' before you poop" routine by Larry the Cable Guy. Paul gave solid advice on Page 1 when he suggested dropping down to lighter weight bullets. Several other posters have suggested using a recoil shield like the PAST (I have the magnum one and it's great) which is very good advice.

Using a Lead Sled is terrible advice. The Lead Sled places an inordinate amount of stress on the stock of the rifle which causes POI shift, added stress on optics and potential stock failure. A much better solution is to use the recoil shield, shoot from a more upright position and, once the POI is confirmed, move away from the bench and practice from field positions. Also, you could (and would be well advised to) step down to cheap 150gr generic ammo for practice and save your handloads or premium factory ammo for hunting.
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Pretty much agree with everything in this post.

Braking is the last resort, it will cost $200 - $300, and it will lower the value by another $200 to $300, so in effect it costs you $600. And you'll need to wear hearing protection whenever you take it hunting because one shot will be enough to do permanent damage.
 
jethunter said:
Pretty much agree with everything in this post.

Braking is the last resort, it will cost $200 - $300, and it will lower the value by another $200 to $300, so in effect it costs you $600. And you'll need to wear hearing protection whenever you take it hunting because one shot will be enough to do permanent damage.
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Not sure why installing a removable brake should devalue a rifle as long as it's done professionally. Some brakes are well designed to deflect sound away from the shooter so unless you are in an enclosed shooting shed, the sound may not be any greater to the shooter. I'm not a big fan of brakes but they do work for those that need them and there are many styles of brakes. I'm seriously considering one for a .223 build I'm doing and I was shocked at the variety of brakes available.
 
Add 1 pound or 2 pounds to the stock. That would my suggestion. Make a 7 pound gun a 8.5 pound gun. That will take enough the recoil off and is a cheap solution. Most guys can not stand brakes. I wound take the recoil to the shoulder over shooting a braked gun without ear protection. Most guys hunt without ear protection and alot cheaper than hearing aids.
 
guntech said:
There are thousands of skinny barrels with brakes. They need to be precisely fitted.
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And there are many thousands of happy hunters with brakes who shoot much more accurately with out the recoil factor. It's a personal choice what you do. If a rifle is braked, it is best left on and only removed for ease of cleaning. It does change the harmonics of the barrel and point of impact and if you are a hand loader, your rifle may require a different load for best accuracy with the brake on or off.

And it a muzzle brake not break...

Talk about noise, I don't know of anyone who enjoys standing beside the muzzle of a 300 short mag or an .06 carbine when it is fired. If you are not wearing ear protection it doesn't matter if it is braked or not.
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oh im aware they can be done. i have done them. much easier on a good machine. when i was doing them, the machine i did them on had a quarter of an inch of backlash. made it not as easy as a nice fresh machine.
 
stubblejumper said:
Not necessarily, a lighter person is moved more by the recoil, whereas a heavy person that doesn't move with the recoil, has to absorb more of the recoil. This is why it is usually more comfortable to shoot heavier recoiling rifles standing up, rather than prone, or while seated at a bench.



Same principle as heavy person holding the firearm, vs light person holding the firearm. If you allow the gun to recoil, neither the firearm or the person has to absorb as much recoil. As well Lead sleds can effect the point of impact, so sighting in with one, isn't a good idea.
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yeah.... sorry it is that slap in the shoulder and your head snapping around that hurts and causes a flinch. 30-06 is about my limit before my glasses and earmuffs start coming off the front of my head due to recoil. that is not pleasant. just because i get slammed around a lot more doesn't mean my boney shoulder doesn't hurt a lot more than someone with half an inch of chub over their collar bone and shoulder.

Everyone is different. some people can turn the pain off. me it hurts and makes my eyes slap shut on a sharp kicking rifle. shot gun not so much, 458 winmag not as much. but a sharp kick like 300 WM and others like it cause me to flinch without a brake on them.
 
My T3 kicks hard on the bench as well. I have a Limbsaver on it and use a PAST recoil pad when on the bench. Never notice the recoil when in hunting situations though. Here's a technique tip... take it for what it is worth... I find a good firm hold on the rifle - not death grip - both at the pistol grip and fore stock, fore end and fore arm supported, absorbs a lot of recoil. I see a lot of people on the range shooting with the fore end on a rest only, holding the rifle cross-armed style, which in my opinion is not stable enough for hunting rifles, enhancing recoil and increasing inaccuracy. Firm hold on the fore stock and pistol grip *should* help. Good luck.
 
Not gripping the forestock on the bench or even off a bipod in the field is a far more accurate way of shooting for most people but as you say, the muzzle jump and recoil is increased. I rarely grip the forestock on any rifle when the forestock is supported. Proper fitting rifles are the key to reducing felt recoil. Start adding thick recoil pads and shoulder pads and length of pull often gets excessive....further increasing felt recoil. All that padding can actually increase felt recoil.
 
I currently own 3 30-06's and have owned lighter models and shot ultralight models as well. In my humble experience, I have found that the felt recoil of a 30-06 is a function of 3 things:

1) Weight of rifle. The lighter the rifle, the harder the punch.
2) Proper fit of the buttstock to the shooter's body - Shouldering the rifle properly and firmly, while maintaining comfort is crucial.
3) Installing a good quality recoil pad - for those whom are a little extra sensitive to recoil.

Only one of my current rifles has a recoil pad. My favorite of the three right now is a UK Midland - no recoil pad. For my forearm length, that rifle is a perfect fit for me and I can shoot it to my heart's content without tenderizing my shoulder. The next one is a Parker Hale Safari, which for me also fits like a glove. Both of those rifles with scope are weighing in at just over 8 pounds, with the safari being heavier.

I shot a Ruger American and a T3 Lite. Both are nice light rifles and both had a bit more recoil. I found the T3 did not fit me as well, and I touched it off without what I deem as proper firmness on my shoulder. That particular event reminded me to do so again. While being lighter rifles, they were decent shooters, but my preference is to stick to the weightier rifles in 30-06 (and 308).
 
I would not hesitate for one second installing a muzzle brake. Especially if interested in sending a few hundred down range. I even brake the 308 heavy varmint that I am running, after all, comfort IS accuracy, and that is what everyone, whether hunting or target shooting is after. there are some lower-profile brakes available and you can have them turn out a thread protector to put on when its not desired which makes for a nice option. It has been stated before, check to make sure the stock fits you correctly, this will greatly affect felt recoil.
 
I would also like to add in that the choice of caliber may also affect the recoil factor... it may very well be all in my head, but I cannot comfortably shoot any of the 30-06 based cartridges, I just find the type of recoil to be flinch inducing, yet a 300wm is no problem. I am a fan of the 308 based cartridge family partially due to the type of recoil and the fact that in all practical shooting ranges, there is not enough difference in 30-06 and 308 terminal effectiveness to matter.
 
I have the same gun and thought the recoil was on the heavy side for me at first. Now after putting a limbsaver custom fit recoil pad on it and shooting 150grain ttsx it's child's play. I love the setup I have with a Burris 2-7 and opti lock rings. My go to gun for all big game.
 
There are a couple of things you could try. First wear both ear plugs and muffs when shooting as the muzzle blast makes recoil seem more severe. Second shoot less from the bench as this position and prone magnify recoil as you have less body motion to absorb the recoil besides sitting and kneeling are more often used when hunting anyway. As mentioned a shoulder pad when shooting long sessions at the range will also help.
 
get a brake i just put one on my rem 700 30.06 and its amazing....

dont see why it will lower value of the gun, raise maybe but not lower it....
 
I had a t3 in 270 with a limb saver. It's kick was about my no flinch limit.
Normally light 30 06 kick does not bother me. So there's something about that t3 stock I guess.
I recommend sell or trade the rifle and get a 243. Works great with premium Bullets and will be much cheaper in the end than trying to get the 3006 to work for you.
 
..........get a 7-08,.....a 140 TSX out of a 7-08 will go thru most any animal you should point it at...recoil is way less than a 30-06 in the same rifle.

brakes ruin ears and pizz off other guys at the range as well as lower the value of the rifle in most cases.
 
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