I was looking for an easy way to decap my berdan primed swiss GP11 brass when I found this link http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/berdanreloading/index.asp. I didn't have exactly the same parts as this guy did but I made a similar tool to what this guy had using parts I had on hand and a 5/16 clevis pin from Canadian Tire.
Step 1. I took a 1/2" solder to 1/2" threaded adapter, put a couple washers in the solder end (don't know the size but they are big enough to not fall through to the threaded end and the hole is slightly bigger than the primer), and then inserted the 1/2" copper pipe and soldered the whole setup.
Here you can see the washers inside the assembly.
Step 2. Bought a 5/16" clevis pin from Canadian Tire and used my drill as a poor man's lathe and used a file to reduce the diameter so that it just fit the neck of the GP11 case. You want to make sure the whole pin can slide inside the case neck easily but tightly enough to make a "pop" sound when you pull it out. Don't make it too tight that it damages the inside of your brass or that it will catch and bend the neck.
To use the unit, Drop a case filled with water into the assembly. (OR put the case in and use a cup and pour some water into the case)
Slide a 1/2 to 1/4" reducer (I think that's what it is) over the top. Without wasting too much time, put the clevis pin in the top and start it into the neck of the case and give it a good wack with a hammer. You'll know when the primer pops out because the pin will bottom out quickly. I found that maybe 1 out of 10 GP11's needed to have 2 wacks with the hammer to pop the primer out.
In the end you will hopefully get a shell that has been successfully been de-primed without any major damage to the neck which is ready to go!
With very little practice, I can do about 4-5 casings per minute.
NOTE: this process is a little messy. It doesn't spray back any water on myself but after the primer pops out whatever water was in the case will be out the bottom. I used mine on my back deck so I didn't have to worry about what I got wet but I suppose you could do this inside if you had a shallow pan or something to sit the assembly in and catch the water.
Anyways I hope this post might be able to help someone at some point. I know this isn't a new idea NOR am I claiming inventing it - I just wanted to share my experience and how I did it.
Step 1. I took a 1/2" solder to 1/2" threaded adapter, put a couple washers in the solder end (don't know the size but they are big enough to not fall through to the threaded end and the hole is slightly bigger than the primer), and then inserted the 1/2" copper pipe and soldered the whole setup.
Here you can see the washers inside the assembly.
Step 2. Bought a 5/16" clevis pin from Canadian Tire and used my drill as a poor man's lathe and used a file to reduce the diameter so that it just fit the neck of the GP11 case. You want to make sure the whole pin can slide inside the case neck easily but tightly enough to make a "pop" sound when you pull it out. Don't make it too tight that it damages the inside of your brass or that it will catch and bend the neck.
To use the unit, Drop a case filled with water into the assembly. (OR put the case in and use a cup and pour some water into the case)
Slide a 1/2 to 1/4" reducer (I think that's what it is) over the top. Without wasting too much time, put the clevis pin in the top and start it into the neck of the case and give it a good wack with a hammer. You'll know when the primer pops out because the pin will bottom out quickly. I found that maybe 1 out of 10 GP11's needed to have 2 wacks with the hammer to pop the primer out.
In the end you will hopefully get a shell that has been successfully been de-primed without any major damage to the neck which is ready to go!
With very little practice, I can do about 4-5 casings per minute.
NOTE: this process is a little messy. It doesn't spray back any water on myself but after the primer pops out whatever water was in the case will be out the bottom. I used mine on my back deck so I didn't have to worry about what I got wet but I suppose you could do this inside if you had a shallow pan or something to sit the assembly in and catch the water.
Anyways I hope this post might be able to help someone at some point. I know this isn't a new idea NOR am I claiming inventing it - I just wanted to share my experience and how I did it.
