NEA lower handguard wobbles after stripping the paint

Sniper1

Sniper1

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
50   0   0
Location
QC - the land of fraud, fear & foolishness
My NEA lower handguard wobbles a bit ... the front part that goes into the handguard cap.
How to eliminate this ?
Was thinking of putting a bit of epoxy in the handguard cap...

P.S: it is not the latest gen. but the one right before (gen 2?)
GEDC4018.JPG


EDIT: As Charles Martel (NEA) noted below, the issue is mostly probably due to stripping of the lacquer paint, done for the Rauch Tactical nitro-carbon coating process. The ferrule/handguard cap itself is floating along with the front end of the lower handguard, which is also floating inside the ferrule.
 
Last edited:
Charles Martel said:
Did you install it with the NEA supplied role over pin?
Click to expand...

No, i didn't receive any extra pin. This set came from Wolverine about 3months ago, no pin in the package. I'm using the factory lower handguard roll pin. It is quite tight at the rear portion (where this factory pin locks it across the receiver). It's the front portion that is floating.
 
The front handguard ferrule on one of my CZs is fairly loose. Is yours like that? Maybe shims inside the ferrule would take up that bit of slack from it being loose.
 
Sniper1 said:
No, i didn't receive any extra pin. This set came from Wolverine about 3months ago, no pin in the package. I'm using the factory lower handguard roll pin. It is quite tight at the rear portion (where this factory pin locks it across the receiver). It's the front portion that is floating.
Click to expand...

send me a pm with your address and i will send you one out. that will help
 
Stevo said:
The front handguard ferrule on one of my CZs is fairly loose. Is yours like that? Maybe shims inside the ferrule would take up that bit of slack from it being loose.
Click to expand...

Yes mine is already a bit loose to start with. but there is still a bit of slack between the NEA handguard and the ferrule.

Charles Martel said:
send me a pm with your address and i will send you one out. that will help
Click to expand...

Thanks, will do. :cool:
 
I just want to mention that my 858 has received the Rauch nitrocarbon treatment, so the lacquer paint has been stripped off... but unfortunetaly, i don't remember how solid was the ferrule before sandblasting; this was a NIB CZ858 that i stripped the same day I got it and sent it Rauch the next day.
So maybe the factory paint was holding the ferrule and factory handguard from moving ?
 
Sniper1 said:
I just want to mention that my 858 has received the Rauch nitrocarbon treatment, so the lacquer paint has been stripped off... but unfortunetaly, i don't remember how solid was the ferrule before sandblasting; this was a NIB CZ858 that i stripped the same day I got it and sent it Rauch the next day.
So maybe the factory paint was holding the ferrule and factory handguard from moving ?
Click to expand...


That explains everything then. I mailed you out a new pin, but you will probably need to shim the front. Paint build up on the 858 is substantial and is taken into account dimensionally for final build tolerances............. stripping paint will lead to a sloppy fit.
 
Cz shimming

Remember -

The tighter the ferrule shim, the higher the rifle will print.

Experiment with thickness - you want as tight as possible without groups opening up.

:ar15:
swingerlh.gif
 
Sniper1 said:
Ok, i'm about to undergo the shimming process.

Wondering if anybody else observed this issue after paint stripping and the NC coating process by Rauch ?
If so, how did you shim the parts, exactly ?
Click to expand...

I've got two rifles with the original finish, one needed shimming, the other didn't. It's got as much to do with the sheet-metal ferrule as with what finish is on the rifle. I would assume it will be more of an issue on rifles without the original paint.

I cut two small strips of plastic from a 9mm ammo box insert and laid them in the sides of the ferrule and then installed the handguard normally. It doesn't get that hot so you can shim it with pretty much anything. It's not a "hammer in" fit so it didn't affect the POI.
 
Sniper1 said:
Ok, i'm about to undergo the shimming process.

Wondering if anybody else observed this issue after paint stripping and the NC coating process by Rauch ?
If so, how did you shim the parts, exactly ?
Click to expand...

Mine was the first generation and I had the same problem. I just tapped the front of the handgaurd in, (on the forks) to tighten up the front. I haven't tackled the rear being loose, but I'm thinking that if I use a longer screw for the detent ball (as suggested in the 858 chrome line barrel thread) it should take up any play.
 
Courtntan said:
Mine was the first generation and I had the same problem. I just tapped the front of the handgaurd in, (on the forks) to tighten up the front. I haven't tackled the rear being loose, but I'm thinking that if I use a longer screw for the detent ball (as suggested in the 858 chrome line barrel thread) it should take up any play.
Click to expand...

He's referring to the lower part, not the railed one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom