NEA Swiss Arms Lower (First Impressions) ***UPDATE***

angryeyebrows

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I just received a stripped NEA lower in the mail and I'd thought I'd post a few pics and comments on my initial inspection.

First off, I'd like to say good job to NEA for trying something no one else was doing and following through with a larger project, however long in the making. Now on to the lower.

I have some likes, dislikes and general concerns. Hopefully NEA will be able to comment on certain areas. Now it should be noted that I do not have my Swiss lower here to swap all the parts and I'll probably add to this when the rifle gets back from the gun smith.

The first thing I noticed when I opened the box, was how grey the anodizing really was. It is on par with early Colt SP1 rifles and carbines. I was hoping for a little more of a black color, like the plethora of AR lowers that are out there, but it's not a deal breaker.

Full Shot, Front Right
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There aren't a ton of markings on the lower, which in my mind is a big plus. On the right hand side, at the top of the mag well "NORTH EASTERN ARMS" is machined in a fairly conservative size font. Thank you for not plastering crap all over the side of my mag well just because there is space to do so! The only other markings on the entire thing are the "S" and "F" located in their proper place by the selector lever. The odd thing is that on the right side, the "S" and the "F" are cut fairly deep into the metal. While on the left side (the side most right handed shooters would look at), the letters are very faint by comparison.

Right Side Selector Markings
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Left Side Selector Markings
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The next thing I noticed, is some areas where the machining was a little rough. Specifically the rear of the receiver and the magazine well. Nothing too crazy but it's worth mentioning. After all, the stripped lower does cost $500 bucks.

Inside the Rear of the Receiver
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Inside the Magazine Well
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Outside Rear of the Receiver
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I then proceeded to install the parts I did have on hand. I had a 5 position, mil spec, Vltor buffer tube as well as a Colt castle nut and index plate. These parts fit fine and there were no issues. However, when I moved on to installing the AR magazine release I found that because of the thickness of the lower in comparison to an AR lower (which the part was designed for), it proved slightly difficult to install. When I did get it properly installed, I noticed there was barely any button protruding. This is slightly troubling. On the flip side, the catch is so recessed that I seriously wonder the ability to use an ambi-catch such as the Norigon. Admittedly, I do not have one here to test but to my eyes it may not work correctly.

Magazine Catch Correctly Installed (end of the shank is flush with the button)

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Left Side Magazine Catch (deeply recessed into receiver)
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Comparison with an AR lower (showing button protrusion and color difference)
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I ended up backing the catch out one full turn to get a little more button showing. Kinda hokey, and I'm not totally happy with this solution. I may have to fabricate a catch with a longer shank on it or perhaps a longer button. It should be noted that an AR catch does not need to move a whole lot to release the magazine and this one did function, despite it's limited travel. I would have just liked a little more of a positive button to push.

Overall I'm satisfied so far with the purchase, but I think there is definitely areas for improvement. The colour was not what I anticipated, the machining is a little rough in certain areas, especially for the money, and the magazine catch is the biggest issue. The ability to use and AR catch was actually one of the selling points for me. I think this could be solved by relieving some of the material on both sides of the catch to allow both the regular button to protrude more, as well as an ambi-catch on the other side.

I hope this helps those who have been eyeballing this lower and are maybe sitting on the fence.

As always, feel free to PM for questions.

Here's a final shot of the lower all oiled up. It does look a lot better with some oil on it!

P5170003-1.jpg


***UPDATE***

I received my Swiss Arms carbine back from the gunsmith and it turned out perfectly. I decided to install and try out the NEA lower on my carbine. It took me about 20 minutes to strip all of the factory parts out of the Swiss Arms lower and then an additional 20 minutes of so to install them into the NEA lower. Almost everything went together smoothly but I did have some issues with a few areas that I will outline below.

As I installed all of the lower receiver parts, being careful to assemble them correctly, I only had real difficulty with installing the bolt catch. The part part would not slide all the way into the slot that was machined for it, as well, the channel for the bolt catch spring did not seem deep enough. The only way I could line everything up properly was to really press down on the bolt catch and force its retaining pin though the hole. Once installed, the fit was way to tight, which caused the catch to not function properly. I did some reading and apparently some of the lowers required the end user to clip part of the bolt catch spring in order to fit properly. This is unacceptable. NEA did make an offer to send out new springs to those who had to clip their factory springs to complete the install. I think the channel in the lower should be drilled a little deeper and then fine tuned in future production versions.

The next thing I noticed was that the rear take down pin was not sliding straight across into its closed position. The reason for this was that there is a small amount of material left inside the rear of the receiver that was making contact with the teeth on the take down pin if the pin was not inserted in a certain orientation. In order for the pin to slide through smoothly, I had to rotate it slightly so the teeth would not make contact with the excess material in the receiver. This is not a huge problem, just a quality and design point which would easily be resolved by removing that excess material.

After the pins were in, I noticed that the rear pin had a slight amount of play. The front pin fit perfectly and had no side to side play. Again this is not a big deal but overtime, this might contribute to the upper and lower loosening up. When I tried to break the rifle open by sliding out the rear pin and hinging the front end down, I found that it would not hing open like the factory lower did. The area around the front pin was making contact with the upper receiver. I was unable to remove the bolt group without first separating the upper an lower completely. This is a major annoyance. When cleaning the weapon in the field, it is absolutely essential to minimize the degree to which you must disassemble the rifle to access the key components.

After using the rifle, fully assembled with the new lower, I must say that the ability to use the AR15 magazine and collapsing stock, certainly improves the handling characteristics. If you are familiar with the AR15 platform, this lower will close the gap enough that you will feel at home with the Swiss rifle in your hands. I did notice one more point that bothered me. It was the sharpness of the the front of the magazine well. A lot of shooters and soldiers grab a hold of this area when firing and I found that when using certain firing positions that required the use of the mag well grip, it was uncomfortable on my hand. I don't know what the purpose behind the overly flared front is, but if it's purely cosmetic, then it should be removed.

I think there are enough weak areas, to warrant NEA to take a hard look at fine tuning this lower. The stripped NEA Swiss Arms lower retails for $499 CAD and in my opinion, definitely needs improvement to justify that price point.

Bolt Catch Area
08.jpg


Rear Take Down Pin
10-1.jpg


Play in Rear Pin
11-1.jpg


Limited Hinge of Upper and Lower
12-1.jpg
 
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On the mag catch you can back it off a few more turns. There is no reason why it cant be done that way. Its being used that way by LEO in Europe and not been an issue.

The rest of your points are well taken, thanks for the feed back as we will use it to improve current and future product.

Regarding the anodize, i may have mentioned this before in another thread. The reason for the grey is because of the depth we are anodizing to. The deeper the anodize the lighter the black goes. Its a trade off for the thick coat which will better resist scratches and dings.



One of the things we considered was making it take an AR grip. The trade off would be losing the use of the trigger tensioner.
 
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Is it me or are those 'S' marks for 'safe' upside-down?
Any font I've seen has the top 'loop' on an S smaller or the same size as the lower 'loop', but not bigger...however minor it is, it did catch my eye.
 
The mag catch can definitely come out a few turns, they have adjusability to do this and by your pics it looks like you have yours screwed in pretty tight. I am considering one of these so please keep us updated.
 
QC needs to be addressed here. It appears to me a few of the milling programs are off centre. The fire control depth, the mag catch, possibly one other area and the tooling chatter.. Normally I like NEA's stuff.. not in design all the time but the quality has been very good.

As this is now.. if this was a Norc product there would be no end to the flaming.

Sorry guys, if this was mine and @ $500, I would be looking for an exchange.
 
Meh, it's disappointing to see the quality issues, especially at the price point of 500. The SF markings look terrible from one side to the other and the grey does not look good, I fail to see the need to go deeper with the ano. Many lowers out there don't and they hold up fine, my ATRS lower takes a beating and it still looks flawless. That piece sure doesn't look 500 to me (IMO)

Never the less I still commend NEA for taking on such a big endeavor, hopefully in the future they can clean up the QC issues.
 
QC needs to be addressed here. It appears to me a few of the milling programs are off centre. The fire control depth, the mag catch, possibly one other area and the tooling chatter.. Normally I like NEA's stuff.. not in design all the time but the quality has been very good.

As this is now.. if this was a Norc product there would be no end to the flaming.

Sorry guys, if this was mine and @ $500, I would be looking for an exchange.

the mag release needing to be adjusted is no biggy for me, its a different system so adjustments on parts is ok.

i agree with the depth of the fire control and the machining marks though, and on the fact that i would also want to return it.
 
OK .. About the mag release.. I think I'm seeing it now. In those pics the receiver looks much wider than the AR. The mag catch would have to be spun out a few turns to make up for that or maybe a specific one made for it.
 
OK .. About the mag release.. I think I'm seeing it now. In those pics the receiver looks much wider than the AR. The mag catch would have to be spun out a few turns to make up for that or maybe a specific one made for it.

In the photo comparing the NEA lower next to an AR lower, the button on the mag release is already spun out one rotation. You can only turn the mag catch eight rotations before it unthreads itself and in order to mimic the AR's mag button depth, you would need to unthread it five rotations. Will it work, yes. Is it ideal, no.

I have settled on spinning it out two rotations. This seems to provide enough button to easily locate with gloved hands and enough travel to reliably release the magazine. Rotating it out anymore then this will completely negate the small mag release fence in front of the button. Laying a rifle on it's side should not cause the magazine to release. If it does, the fence or guard should be raised.

Now that I look at it, the "S" on the left hand side does look to be upside down. Good eye.
 
When it comes to machined work, I'm anal beyond reason. Great design but appears to have some minor machining flaws that hopefully will be address.

No doubt functions, but chatter related tool marks always bother me. I'd still buy it.
 
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A few little "oopies" but overall good for a first generation lower.

Most of the 'cosmetic' stuff is hidden internally anyways, although IMHO I think an extended "thicker" mag release button may be something to look into making :)

One thing to consider, is milling the area around the mag release button (if there is enough wall thickness) might be good, and if you extended it into the trigger guard, it would create a nice little niche for your finger to find the mag release button :D
 
A few little "oopies" but overall good for a first generation lower.

Most of the 'cosmetic' stuff is hidden internally anyways, although IMHO I think an extended "thicker" mag release button may be something to look into making :)

One thing to consider, is milling the area around the mag release button (if there is enough wall thickness) might be good, and if you extended it into the trigger guard, it would create a nice little niche for your finger to find the mag release button :D

I agree with this idea. So far....

- Mill out a contoured recess for the mag release button to live in.
- Clean up rough machined areas.
- Sort out "Safe" and "Fire" fonts (both size and orientation of the letters). Maybe pictograms would be better.
- Decrease the flare at the front of the mag well. I don't usually grab there but for those who would it is quite aggressive and uncomfortable.
- There is also quite a sharp edge at the rear flare of the mag well. This should be smoothed out and rounded off.
 
Overall i like it. Although your engineer looks like he/she got a little sloppy perhaps rushing production? I'd be torn a new hole for missing fillets+rounded edges pre fabrication, let alone catching that afterwards :p. Well not really to such an incredible extent, but machinist students know what i'm talking about hahaha... For the incredible amount of work done, i think that the product's minor flaws are nothing in comparison to the overall achievement (I understand the pain involved with converting an idea into CAD and then into actual fabrication).

I +1 on pictograms, if you have a fine enough bit that could produce a decent quality engraving.
 
One thing to consider, is milling the area around the mag release button (if there is enough wall thickness) might be good, and if you extended it into the trigger guard, it would create a nice little niche for your finger to find the mag release button :D

Not without cutting into other cavities which makes it a highway for debris into the lower its self.

While the chatter inside is not ideal, it is internal and out of sight once the lower is installed.
 
Not without cutting into other cavities which makes it a highway for debris into the lower its self.

While the chatter inside is not ideal, it is internal and out of sight once the lower is installed.

Ahh k, I was just throwing ideas around, as I said I didn't know if there was enough depth to cut into. However I think an extended button may be a pretty cheap and easy solution (or a longer screw)

ETA

After looking at it some more, you couldn't do something like this?

Where the blue area is cut maybe to the same depth as the lightening cut in the mag well? it wouldn't need to be very deep, but I think a little extra area would allow the mag button to be accessed a lot better, even then if it was cut 2mm deep, you could still back the mag release button out a couple turns to get it nice and accessible for wearing gloves and stuff

p5170006.jpg


(just a quick photshop edit, you could even contour the cutout to the curve just above it)

Just some constructive criticism, they are a very nice product, even as is I would get one for a SWISS arms if I had one :D
 
The mag release is a non issue, back it off a couple turns. Its not coming out/loose.

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On the deburring/chatter side, we hired a new engineer/programmer this month. He is going over the program and will address the chatter. Its a simple matter of adjusting dialling down speeds and feeds. Again the chatter is in areas that once the lower is assembled are never seen again.
 
I thought you were going to get a custom mix of Duracoat/Armacoat (which ever one it is here) in the native swiss green/blue for the lowers? Who is the guy is Canada who does this again, anyway that guy was going to do it no? Maybe I dreamed it... entirely possible...:runaway:
 
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