Nearly necromancy-lots of photos-

Musketfire

Musketfire

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Well gentlemen "and dare I say ladies?" I worked all night and came home to help the wife prepare for our Samhain celebration tomorrow, she and the boy are off shopping with our neighbor...

Giving me a few moments to go and do a preliminary inspection of my newest project..And welll.....Thought you guys would enjoy seeing the projuct from the start.

Shes a old flintlock converted to percussion smoothie...and ill be damned if she doesnt have a grand personality, barrel is in fine shape....the stock...maybe not so much,

so I figure im going to try this acraglass that many regard so highly and if it turns out Im going to send the progress right to the company "maybe they will put the pictures on their websight or send me a free box??

I have to strip all the wood and clean it up before I try to glass and pin it together....


So here goes----Stage one

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Preaching to the choir Sir:D

Im a huge fan of evaporust!!! like all my arms , this one s bore will get the treatment!

Waaaay before I get on the steel I have to fix the wood!!!

That said, The outside will remain "as the wife says" patina but the bore and lock interior is going to be all function and ZERO patina.

Cheers!

firemachine69 said:
Use Evaporust. Sold in 1L bottles at Canadian Tire. Let soak overnight. Be prepared to be amazed in the morning. :D
Click to expand...
 
I put a stock from a '93 Marlin back together a while ago that was cleaved in half when a horse rolled onto it many many years ago. Easy as pie. Clean the surfaces you want to glass back together with diesel starting fluid (ether). Take a Dremel tool (or rotary equivalent) with a drum sanding attachment and carve some relief grooves in the broken faces. Take care to stay away from the edges, or hog out the grooves paralell to the edge if you have to go close. Because if she gets away on you :eek:. I found it a good idea to drill a series of small holes into the wood at varying angles to make a
mechanical lock when the epoxy cures.

There should be metal treatment in the kit so the Acraglas doesn't stick to metal. Never had to use it, but it may come in handy if you have to use the metal as part of your clamping jig. Use surgical tubing to wrap it together nice and tight. Clean any overflow away immediatly. I found rubbing alcohol worked well. Not as harsh to use as acetone. Be careful, I found you don't really need much product, and I had a bit of an emergency for a while. :)

Your stock looks a bit of a jigsaw puzzle. Do a few test assembles first, and see if you can get away doing it in stages. Glue as few chunks together at a time as you can get away with. It should line up better that way.

The bad news is that you only really get one shot to get it right. So be patient.
 
Excellent advice Mr Johnson!

I still have to take all the furniture off her so I will not need any steel relief agent "thankfully" the idea you have with drilling a series of small holes with my dremel is just a DAMN FINE IDEA and far better then using pins...or should I do that-- AND also use pins???

I want to put this arm back to work, that is my aim.

Cheers sir and well met with your advise!

Rob


Short Knife Johnson said:
I put a stock from a '93 Marlin back together a while ago that was cleaved in half when a horse rolled onto it many many years ago. Easy as pie. Clean the surfaces you want to glass back together with diesel starting fluid (ether). Take a Dremel tool (or rotary equivalent) with a drum sanding attachment and carve some relief grooves in the broken faces. Take care to stay away from the edges, or hog out the grooves paralell to the edge if you have to go close. Because if she gets away on you :eek:. I found it a good idea to drill a series of small holes into the wood at varying angles to make a
mechanical lock when the epoxy cures.

There should be metal treatment in the kit so the Acraglas doesn't stick to metal. Never had to use it, but it may come in handy if you have to use the metal as part of your clamping jig. Use surgical tubing to wrap it together nice and tight. Clean any overflow away immediatly. I found rubbing alcohol worked well. Not as harsh to use as acetone. Be careful, I found you don't really need much product, and I had a bit of an emergency for a while. :)

Your stock looks a bit of a jigsaw puzzle. Do a few test assembles first, and see if you can get away doing it in stages. Glue as few chunks together at a time as you can get away with. It should line up better that way.

The bad news is that you only really get one shot to get it right. So be patient.
Click to expand...
 
Wow. That's going to be fun to juggle.

If we're looking for a local substitute for acra glass, would JB weld be ok for problems? I'm looking to get a winchester up and running and the stock has a pretty good crack in it, but majority of it is hidden under the tang. I'm thinking of getting a new stock anyways, but in the meantime, going to put a pin through (previous owner used a nail, and glue it with some sort of glue...
 
Well I'm glad you found my post helpful. I don't know if pinning the stock in conjunction would be of any advantage. Thinking just the Acraglas would be enough.

JB Weld is something I haven't used much, but to fix a crack might not work well. I don't think there is a way to thin it down and bleed it into the space you need. I'm not sure what would be a good substitute. Perhaps Gorrilla glue, but it expands as it dries. The trick is to get the crack spread open with a wedge but not so that it worsens and get the epoxy as far back as possible. Stuff it back with a toothpick or something.

The '93 Marlin stock I put back together was held together with assorted nails and screws. I carefully removed the hardware, and put it back in place when the piece was assembled to retain the character of the stock. The look is very period, but drives a friend of mine who is a total purist crazy.
 
I use and epoxy called G2 and put dowels in afterwards and hide them under places like the tang. On that gun I would be tempted to put a dowel down into the pistol grip just as an insurance policy against a future bump

cheers mooncoon
 
Well I worked all night... and the wife went out to her familys today with the boy, leaving me to either sleep.... or work on projects as its the weekend.

So I started the stock repairs on ol mystery here.

Well first of all.... let me say I had to repair alot of cracks and little slivers and all kinds of whatnot.

Now Id say shes about half done the basic patchwork, tomorrow Im going to re attach the forestock, she may look a bit odd now but everythings lined up just swell!!!

Shes a bit scary now....have faith men!!! This is going to be one neat little fowler!

The acraglass is a wonderful product, And indeed a little bit does go a loooong way, after shes all together refinished and done then we will se how it holds up to some use!!!

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Musketfire said:
Preaching to the choir Sir:D

Im a huge fan of evaporust!!! like all my arms , this one s bore will get the treatment!

Waaaay before I get on the steel I have to fix the wood!!!

That said, The outside will remain "as the wife says" patina but the bore and lock interior is going to be all function and ZERO patina.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Musketfire, can you explain some more about how your use EvapoRust? I'm familiar with the product, but not the specifics of how it would be applied to the bore. Do you just fill up the bore and let it sit overnight to do its work? I take it it will remove any rust pits, etc., but what sort of condition is the bore in afterwards (frosty, grey?)

Just curious, thanks, as I have a sewer pipe barrel on a Marlin 1889 that I've been contemplating giving the evaporust treatment to.
 
Well I plug the breech, and dump it down the tube

Let er sit overnight and dump the stuff out, yes there may be pits and the steel afterwards is plain unprotected bare steel-that will need protection

I find then if you wrap the tip of the ramrod with steel wool and with a bit of oil scrub the bore back and forth over and over until the shine returns.

Or if your talking a breach loader, oil the bore and give it a fair days use then scrub the bore with the steel wool and oil.

If the barrel is buggered..... its buggered ;)..... you can clean it for a month and it still will be bad.

But if its salvageable and just rusty the evaporust is good medicine in my opinion.

Odd side note this pistol grip Keitland Im working on here, was a flintlock then converted to percussion, shes seen ALOT of adventure, I nearly fell over when I gave the bore a bit of attention.....no pits and smooth.....Amazing!!!

Cheers
 
Hello all, thanks for finding interest in my little ressurection here:)

Anyhow, I woke up this morning and checked how last nights repair went, solid and straight, which pleases me greatly.

Now the forestock is in place secured and Im waiting on that.

After thats set, AND if that turns out Im going to pull out the trigger assembly, strip all the finish off her and get to filling small cracks and holes and fabricating some small missing parts, then I have to refinish her so the repairs will not be quite so...offensive to the eye;)

Heres some --so far-- pictures, sure shes still not so pretty...but shes getting there.



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Here we are so far, I used steel wool to clean up the stock , I have to fix the big hole leading into the ramrod channel, bed the breech and fix a few more cracks but with all that said....shes really getting there!!

Im undecided as yet- but I may finish it with chromium trioxide and hand rubbed linseed oil.


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And here she is so far- drying the last of the moisture away, then its a couple of hand rubbed linseed oil/ mineral spirit coats.

I still have to fabricate a entry pipe....but not all that bad so far ;)


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I like your attitude and I like seeing this old stock come back. I am really lookign forward to seeing how the metal turns out and the pics of when its done and all back together compared to the first pics.

I have a question about the stock, with the way it broke, how do you think it will stand up with use again?
 
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