Neck sized brass in a diff rifle?

frigpig said:
It O.K. to disagree.

But someone asking this question on an Internet forum should err on the side of caution. I could care less what is done out there. I just don't want someone hurting themselves smashing the bolt down before the 'ol bang.

It's a factory rifle. The old rifle was factory. Do you really think the necks are thick?
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There is no safety issue to be concerned about.
 
Brianma65 said:
That's what's happening , it gets really tight about 1/8 or less of the bolt throw. The Nosler brass are the tightest, got to give them a good smack to get the bolt closed. The R-P were just snug.
I've decided to FL resize them all.
Will the lube I use (lanolin and isopropyl ) contaminate the primers? Or should I pop them out as well?
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Keep us posted as to the results of your full length sizing. If the tightness was due to neck thickness, full length sizing won't entirely fix the problem.
 
I tryed all the Rem fire formed brass(80 pcs) and most of it was very hard to close the bolt and even harder to open the bolt.
I had to give the bolt a good smack to close and an even harder smack to eject them.
I resized them all. They now fit the Savage perfectly. Really snug.
My guess is that the Savage chamber is much tighter than the Rem.
I'm not worried about how tight they were, just that it was a PITA to be hitting the bolt handle , to close it .
 
Andy said:
I find it increasingly difficult to contribute in a culture of "you can't be too safe".
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bigbull said:
Me three, there is no safety issue from what you describe.
BB
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c-fbmi said:
You and me both Andy...........the same culture that tried to institute seat belts on motorcycles, and will soon have it illegal to drive a car without a helmet.
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H4831 said:
I'm with you on that too, Andy.
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I'm with these fellows, who, like myself, have lots of experience. Dave.
 
If there are scratches on the brass, it is requiring too much force to close the bolt. The excessive force upon bolt closing is putting excessive wear on the bolt lugs and often is not as accurate. Use a Redding body die, it will bump the shoulder and size the body, but do it just enough so that the bolt closes without force, not loose but snug, but never tight. NEVER use a full length die, they over work the brass and can even cause the brass the be crooked. When the ball expander is being withdrawn from the case through the neck, we often encounter a lot of resistance, that resistance can stretch and pull the neck portion of the brass case to one side. A LEE collet die is the way to go, yah ayh I know, LEE make cheap stuff. Well they make excellent products that are less expensive, how's that, totally different now, right. One of my best friends uses the collet die with his Remington XR-100 in .223 Rem, at 200 yards, not 100, but 200 yards, five shots under .500" c to c with 4 shots in a small cluster under .200" at that range and often, not just occasionally. The LEE Collet die only works the neck portion of the brass case once per sizing and when the bolt is too difficult to close, we bump the case with the body die. A combination my friends and I have used for decades now and we are having great success and accuracy as well. My Tikka T3 Sporter, same load, 3 different seating depths, all cases sized with the collet die and crimped with the LEE factory crimp die, just a kiss to create a constant pressure curve upon ignition, Hornady 168gr HPBT Match, in all 9 groups of 5 shots each, average for all 9 groups at 100 yards, with the three flyers I called, I pulled the shots, .563" c to c. The LEE Redding combo works and your brass will last longer. Enjoy. Dave & The Girls
 
I FL sized all the brass.
I'll neck size only the next time as I have a RBCS neck sizing die only. I've read that I'll have to turn the necks ?? Not exactly sure what's involved in that yet .
I'll also buy a set of body dies.
 
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