Neck sizing before or after annealing?

338x

338x

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I've always been using a Lee Collet necksizing die to reload my 308 and in the past year I started to anneal my cases and I think I'm seeing some benefits. The problem I have is that I've collapsed a few cases when I neck sized the case after I did the annealing. I would think that the annealing process soften the case neck and becomes not strong enough and collapsed...

So the question: do you neck size before or after annealing? If before, ever seen case collapse?

Cheers!
 
338x said:
I've always been using a Lee Collet necksizing die to reload my 308 and in the past year I started to anneal my cases and I think I'm seeing some benefits. The problem I have is that I've collapsed a few cases when I neck sized the case after I did the annealing. I would think that the annealing process soften the case neck and becomes not strong enough and collapsed...

So the question: do you neck size before or after annealing? If before, ever seen case collapse?

Cheers!
Click to expand...

just do the learning curb as well, when you are annealing what temp templaq do you use?
 
Never had that happen even once, when using the standard sizing die of any brand.
And I use a lot of heat when annealing.
 
bsand said:
shouldnt you be FL sizing after an anneal?
Click to expand...

Why???

Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die Part 1 - YouTube




Video for lee neck sizing die adjustment▶ 4:20

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhTUgytUGnM


copy and paste this link to your browser. This video is one of the best I have seen to show you exactly what is happening and why its happening. It also tells you how to fix it. There are two parts so watch both of them. Takes about ten minutes combined.
 
bearhunter said:
Why???

Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die Part 1 - YouTube




Video for lee neck sizing die adjustment▶ 4:20

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhTUgytUGnM


copy and paste this link to your browser. This video is one of the best I have seen to show you exactly what is happening and why its happening. It also tells you how to fix it. There are two parts so watch both of them. Takes about ten minutes combined.
Click to expand...

I've watched those video before (when I first bought the die) and used the recommendation. Also polished the part that squeeze the case against the mandrel.
 
bearhunter said:
Why???

Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die Part 1 - YouTube




Video for lee neck sizing die adjustment▶ 4:20

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhTUgytUGnM


copy and paste this link to your browser. This video is one of the best I have seen to show you exactly what is happening and why its happening. It also tells you how to fix it. There are two parts so watch both of them. Takes about ten minutes combined.
Click to expand...

Last time I annealed FC brass, they were NOT fitting inside my neck sizing die or my rifles chamber. FL size later they fit and worked once again. I retired the brass after 12 firings.
 
when I started was told 750 but after talking to bench source the company I purchased my machine from they suggested 650 and to put the tempilaq in side the neck so that by the time you see the color change you are at the correct amount of heat.
 
accumark said:
when I started was told 750 but after talking to bench source the company I purchased my machine from they suggested 650 and to put the tempilaq in side the neck so that by the time you see the color change you are at the correct amount of heat.
Click to expand...

This is what I do while using the 750 Tempilaq and set the machine to remove the brass from heat just as the Tempilaq changes.
 
Annealing makes the neck and shoulder harder. I neck up 06 cases to 35 cal. with no problems splitting cases anymore. Just use a propane torch, hold the brass as low as you can. Hold the shoulder in the flame and turn with your fingers until you can't hold it anymore and then drop the case into cold water. The case will cool instantly and harden. The cases will endure almost unlimited reloads. I have cases that I have loaded from years ago and forgot how many times I loaded them. This is very good for the 303 Brit. and the tapered H&H cases. The cases should look discolored half way down.
PS> a tapered expander ball works very good to help minimize case splitting.
 
Bigbore 35 said:
Annealing makes the neck and shoulder harder. I neck up 06 cases to 35 cal. with no problems splitting cases anymore. Just use a propane torch, hold the brass as low as you can. Hold the shoulder in the flame and turn with your fingers until you can't hold it anymore and then drop the case into cold water. The case will cool instantly and harden. The cases will endure almost unlimited reloads. I have cases that I have loaded from years ago and forgot how many times I loaded them. This is very good for the 303 Brit. and the tapered H&H cases. The cases should look discolored half way down.
PS> a tapered expander ball works very good to help minimize case splitting.
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I'm sorry. That's completely wrong, and parts of it are unsafe.

I don't have time to get into it right now, but someone else is welcome to.
 
Sunray is that you? Impossible to harden brass with heat.

Bigbore 35 said:
Annealing makes the neck and shoulder harder. I neck up 06 cases to 35 cal. with no problems splitting cases anymore. Just use a propane torch, hold the brass as low as you can. Hold the shoulder in the flame and turn with your fingers until you can't hold it anymore and then drop the case into cold water. The case will cool instantly and harden. The cases will endure almost unlimited reloads. I have cases that I have loaded from years ago and forgot how many times I loaded them. This is very good for the 303 Brit. and the tapered H&H cases. The cases should look discolored half way down.
PS> a tapered expander ball works very good to help minimize case splitting.
Click to expand...
 
UMMMM there seems to be a lot of misinformation going around.

When you heat brass and quench it the brass is normalized back to its original state. Soft. Exactly the opposite of ferrous based metals.

When you heat brass and allow it to air cool slowly or even in an insulated tub it will harden.

When you purchase ammo that is pristine on new cases and you see annealing colors that is because the manufacturer hardened the shoulder and neck to increase neck tension by slight hardening.
 
Wow...yo momma and I have come full circle. From telling each other to go f ourselves last August to openly mocking those who are wrong - TOGETHER!!!!

Air cool or quench, doesn't matter. You may be confusing annealing with tempering - doesn't that involve quenching??

Annealed softens the brass, re-establishing its malleability.

The color differences as you move down the casing are not due to annealing at the factory, they are a different blend/alloy of brass.

If you heat half way down the body of the casing you are inappropriately heating that brass alloy, making it far to soft and weak. You should only heat to just below the shoulder.

Tempilaq use is wise. I was taught to use 750 on the inside of the neck, but I think that's a bit of a guess. 650 might well be as good.

Using the "hold it til it's hot" technique is ok, for someone else's rifle. It's up there with "heat it til it glows".

Under heating will accomplish nothing. Overheating ruins your brass.
 
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