Need 1911 help

Craig0ry

Craig0ry

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So I recently completely disassembled my 1911. Replaced the trigger slide stop thumb safety and mag release. put it all back together, gave it a function test cocked the hammer half lock and full lock everything seem to work fine. Took it out shooting today and it would fire one round eject the casing and chamber the next round but the hammer would not lock back and wasn't able to fire the next round. What did I do wrong putting it back together? Iam at a loss
 
Craig0ry said:
So I recently completely disassembled my 1911. Replaced the trigger slide stop thumb safety and mag release. put it all back together, gave it a function test cocked the hammer half lock and full lock everything seem to work fine. Took it out shooting today and it would fire one round eject the casing and chamber the next round but the hammer would not lock back and wasn't able to fire the next round. What did I do wrong putting it back together? Iam at a loss
Click to expand...

No worry you didn't lost anything, do a you tube search how to reassumble 1911 step by step, looks like just a tiny problem.

Trigun
 
Most likely one of your sear spring prongs is under the disconnecter or sear. Take the back strap off, remove the spring and take the safety/grip safety off. Then place the sear spring overtop the trigger/sear/disconnector (both prongs) the third prong should be bent back towards your grip safety anyways). Then replace the grip safety, thumb saftey and backstrap and it should work. The 2 prongs should be putting pressure on the sear/disconnecter/trigger pushing them towards the front of the gun.
 
Check the sear spring, make sure all three legs are on top of parts and not underneath.
 
~ What make?
~ What model?
~ What work has been done?
~ What caliber?
~ What parts have been changed?
 
Kimber
Stainless Target II
Replaced the Trigger. Thumb safety. Mag Release. and Slide stop, The only Issue I can see there beign is possible the trigger
.45
 
Make sure the trigger moves freely in the frame. If there are "take up" tabs then increase the amount of take up.

Bend the left leg of the sear spring forward to increase it's tension against the sear.
 
Would this affect it? Heres a picture of the 2 triggers, The stainless being the stock trigger, It seems to have a set screw in it, Is this the "take up" your referring to?

IMG_0337.jpg
 
The set screw is an adjustment for overtravel.

The slots in the trigger bow have tabs that extend forward. The tabs push the trigger rearward and may be disengaging the sear from the hammer.
 
Well I guess its back to the old trigger

Edit, Tried the old and new trigger and the rear of the trigger on the loop both sit identical at the rear of the mag well, Could My sear spring be worn? Never had a problem before I took it apart though. I wish I lived at a shooting range so i could go test fire it again
 
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Try backing out the trigger over travel screw.
If it is turned in so far as to not allow the trigger to move slightly rearward after hammer falls it will not allow hammer to reset.
Live fire is best to test but .....you can generally set up pretty close dry fireing
With an EMPTY gun cycle action to simulate loading
pull trigger(hammer falls) and hold rearward
Still holding trigger rearward cycle action
Hammer should be cocked, let trigger forward slowly and you should feel it reset.
If hammer is not cocked back out set screw and try again
 
Is it possible that your new parts need some tweaking by a gunsmith?

The 1911 is a great platform, but a lot of smiths back in the day made a good living fitting new parts and making the gun into a reliable shooter. Unlike many modern guns, you generally can't swap parts in and out of a 1911 without fitting or adjusting them.
 
keep everything else in and swap the old trigger back in. that should give you an idea if it is the culprit. my first thoughts were sear leaf spring, but it seems you have that covered.
 
Craig0ry said:
if the sear spring was worn out could it cause burst fire?
Click to expand...

They don't really "wear out", but...they can become weak and need adjusting, or they can have the wrong dimensions (which is usually on the short side and can't be fixed).

Can the sear spring contribute?...yes.
 
The new trigger just needs fit, it comes with options to help the trigger pull and accuracy. Just learn how to fit the trigger, it may have come with instructions.
 
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