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Its a used colt trigger. And doesn't have the tabs on it like the Kimber trigger does. That's the only noticeable difference I can see. I'll look into fitting the colt trigger
A good way to test all this when you first put it together is rack the slide over a wide variety of speeds from real slow to fast as you can without letting it actuall slam. If the hammer stays full back after each racking that's good. It means you don't have any hammer follow. You need to release the hammer each time and rack it again for each trial. Don't just cycle the slide back and forth without dropping the hammer.
Next rack, pull and HOLD the trigger back. While holding the trigger rack the slide like a recoil would do. Ensure once again that regardless of speed of racking that the hammer stays fully back on the sear. With the hammer cocked slowly release the trigger until you feel the disconnector reset. Note where this occurs. Now slowly move the trigger back again. The hammer should not drop for about a millimeter or more of travel. If the reset point and trip point are too close together you can end up with some full auto fun. And as much fun as that is you really should aughta fix it....
The nice thing with this procedure is that there's no ammo involved but it'll catch 90% of any issues with the whole trigger setup including the multi leaf spring.
There IS a procedure to set the amount of tension on each of the three leafs. I did it some time back and it was easy to find using google for the keywords "1911 spring setup" or similar. I believe the notes I followed were from the Brownell's website.