Need a 900M Rifle

My understanding is that to really have something useful I need to invest in an upgraded stock, as well as the best glass I can afford. I was thinking of spending 700-800 on a rifle, up to another 1000 on a stock and then looking at up to another 1000 on glass. All depending on what is avalible at the time. If I went for something like a TRG22 in .308 then I could avoid buying a stock all together. I really like the ACIS stocks and was considering buying a remington 700 sps tactical and getting it fitted into one of those. Any thoughts? What about the T3? How so all of these fare?
How are the factory triggers on all of these, The Sako the Tikka and the Remington? Will any of them do or is this something else that would need to be upgraded?
 
The single most inportant contributor to accuracy is the BARREL. a $500 $hit gun&barrel in a $1000 stock gives you a $1500 $hitty gun.

Most factory stocks are perfectly fine the way they are. Tikkas need nothing. I have owned several Tikkas including two tactical models. They are terrific.


Good glass is very important.

I have to say that my vote for the best combination of quality at a fairly reasonable price has to be Sightron.
 
geez, that's odd Ben,
When Rob built my barrels he made my long range barrel 31" and my a 6 PPC only 22".
Maybe i should get him to contact you and you can teach him something, laff.

and while i'm at it, i could cut a ft. off of a 50 cal and make it shoot farther and save
weight carrying it around the range.

M.
 
Squirrley11 said:
What do you guys think about picking up a Remington 5r and then getting that tuned?
Click to expand...

The limiting factor would still be the factory barrel. If you are shooting F Factory class it isn't a problem you are shooting against other factory rifles. You would be better off shooting it for a year or so until you know for sure that you can shoot better than your rifle. There is lots to learn about shooting long range and the learning curve is the same with a factory barrel as it is with a match barrel. The only the difference is the factory barrel will save you about $500 over getting a match grade barrel to start with.

If you are going to get it blue printed the time to do that is when you need to replace the barrel. The good after market trigger would be a good investment for shooting F Class out to 900m. You don't want a 7 lbs trigger, some guys are using safe triggers that break at a few ounces.
 
Yes. They are service competitions but we need our own rifles. I'm thinking I will go with the 5r for the price they are being offered to us at. And exactly like you say I will invest in some good optics. (I plan on spending more on optics than the actual gun) then shooting it until like you say I feel I can out shoot the rifle.

Thanks everyone for all the information and suggestions!
 
The 5R is a great choice. just shoot it. Unless you are changing the barrel accurizing will change little. It is a very upgradable platform later. Check out "Machinist's" upgraded 5R.
 
I think you are smart to buy that Sportco, matty86suk. They sort of look and feel like an overgrown Cooey (posh, they are not!), but they are a good solid platform to get into shooting affordably.

I'd like to put forward a case for (at least considering) keeping the factory trigger...

When I got started building rifles I was under the assumption that I simply *had* to replace any factory trigger, that they were of necessity crap. Since then I've shot a good number of top-tier custom triggers, as well as a number of factory triggers, and my thoughts on this have really mellowed.

On my M70 (the first target rifle I built) I ended up going back to the factory trigger, after having tried a Timney (in hindisght, no better than the factory trigger) and a Jewell. I find the factory M70 trigger to be completely shootable (I have it set near the lower end of its safe adjustment range. While I haven't weighed it, I would SWAG it at 3-ish pounds.

I haven't owned a Rem 700, but I have helped set up a number of different 700s for friends, and I have quite a bit of respect for factory Rem 700 triggers. They are nicely adjustable, and really feel quite good to shoot. Unless I needed a very light trigger, I would without hesitation use the factory 700 trigger (now I have a great deal of disrespect for the Remington safety system - but that's another topic ;-)

I have a couple of Savages (older ones, non-accutrigger, with adjustable sear engagement). With the sear engagement set to minimum (and the safety disabled, since it will no longer safely work when the sear engagement is minimized), I find the trigger to be *really* good and clean.

It is true that it is easier to learn to shoot an 8 oz. trigger well than it is to shoot a 3# trigger well. But with a year or two of shooting, it is possible to learn how to break a 3# trigger cleanly and without disrupting your aim (to TR and even F-Class levels of performance).

It is also true that in serious, all-out F-Class competition, a lighter trigger is probably a worthwhile advantage, because it allows you to get a perfectly broken shot away several seconds quicker than it takes to break a perfect shot with a 2-3# trigger.

Don't get me wrong, $200-$500 triggers are gorgeous things. But if you are looking for expenses to defer or avoid, this is a darn good candidate. Absolutely critical for a good accurate rifle is a good barrel, and a stock that is properly bedded to the action - you must get those two items right.

It is a worthwhile shooting skill to be able to cleanly break a heavy(ish) trigger, one that can let you do all sorts of cool things - for example, shoot an AR-15 with a factory trigger (heavy and fairly creepy) to impressive levels of accuracy (i.e. fully what the rifle itself is capable of).

Which I guess is a very long way of saying, don't necessarily be scared away from a factory trigger.
 
Someone from an unnamed supplier was saying that you can only shoot 175 grain bullets from the 5r is this true? He explained because it had a unique twist and suggested I am better off buying a 700p.
 
That sounds like a matter of his/her personal preference rather than fact. I am sure Remington would not use a twist that could only shoot 1 type of bullet well.

As with all rifles, you need to explore different bullets and powders and such to find that perfect mix to get the best results. It may be 175g, but which 175, there are many.
 
Remington 700 Milspec 5R
Caliber: .308 Win (7.62x51 NATO)
Barrel: Stainless Milspec 5R
Barrel Length: 24" (610mm)
Twist: RH 1:11.2"

Forgive me, but I see no magic formula for 175gr bullets there.
Shoot whatever you want to or works for you.
Almost or the same twist found on Milspec M-14 barrels. So I guess all tracer and AP rounds are good to go.

Borrowed from another place:

""Because of the unique rate of twist I wanted to try a wide variety for bullet weights from 155 to 190gr to see if one stood out as being well suited to the 11.2" twist rate. The designers of the M24 performed tests and calculations to determine that 11.2" was the ideal rate of twist for the sniping ammo at the time, the 173gr M118 Special Ball. Based on that, I figured the 175gr match might perform the best in the milspec. While that was not necessarily true, what we did find out is that it fired all of them just about the same!""
 
Squirrley11 said:
Someone from an unnamed supplier was saying that you can only shoot 175 grain bullets from the 5r is this true? He explained because it had a unique twist and suggested I am better off buying a 700p.
Click to expand...

If guy said all you can shoot is 175, he has his head up his A$$. You will be able to shoot a whole wack load of bullets weight and length. It is a great rifle and I personally would pick it over a 700p.

By this persons standard, being that a 700p is a 1-12 twist all you can shoot is 168's, which many many people will tell you that they shoot all sorts of stuff, including 175's. There is a guy on snipershide who has been shooting 208's out of his 700p for years and has quite reasonable results.

There is no magic button twist rate for a certain round weight/length. Its more like a window.
 
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