Need a "leaf spring" for a British Bulldog (PICS)

MaxKW

MaxKW

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I need the little leaf spring that sits under the cylinder that serves to reset the firing mechanism after pulling the trigger, mine is broken into 2 equal pieces.

I'm looking for 1 of 3 options, I need to find a spring, find somebody that can make one or find someone knowledgable enough to fix this one if possible.

I would also buy a "parts gun" if reasonably priced.

If you think this is within your ability send me a PM to discuss.

the cartridge in the pic is a 380 revolver to give you an idea of size
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I don't know if this will help you but if you find an old spring [I like ones from old cars that helped roll up the windows] and get it red hot to lose the temper, you can then fashion a new spring[you have the old one for pattern] with files, pliers, saw and/or dremel. Place new spring in your lead pot at 600 degrees and warm it up to retemper the spring.
 
Do some searches for making springs. There is a lot of info out there. Its usually not possible to fix a broken spring.

It might be easier to make one out of piano type wire too depending on the design.
 
Could possibly use a hack saw blade, grind to thickness wanted, polish it to remove small cut/scratch marks "stress points", heat and bend then re-temper.

EDIT: NorthCoastBigBore's plan sounds better. Spring kit would be the way to go.
 
Depending on if you want to learn how to temper metal you can make one in a couple of different ways. First and easiest is to find something that is roughly the same thickness(aka thin and flat) and made out of a high grade steel. Ideally another spring. Shape it to what you need by heating and rolling the end over and file to final shape. Following that harden and temper it to a spring hardness(blue I think it is...would have to look it up).

Alternatively if you start with a material that is hardened appropriately and carve the shape of the spring out you don't have to heat it. More work IMHO but at times easier if your not prepared or set up to heat metal. Best thing would be to find an old car leaf spring and cut a piece out of it to carve up. Just make sure to cool it regularly as any discoloration and you've screwed the temper.

Really if I had my forge set up I could make you one in no time at all, but alas it's in pieces from moving to the Yukon and I need a new anvil as I no longer have my Dad's to use(it's about 150 years old...like most good anvils..and he wouldn't let me take it).
 
You're going to want to do it yourself or ship the gun to someone. Even if they have the spring, spring strength is an issue so they'd need to fit it to the gun. Not really like modern guns where you drop in a part.


All that said, try making a spring. They're a colossal pain in the butt, but it's a good skill to have.

I made this video because there's a remarkable lack of good info out there. Inevitably some vital piece of info is left out of most instructions, so you end up doing 99% of the work right and failing repeatedly because someone failed to mention something basic (such as never quench high carbon steel in water.....)

 
Hacksaw blades - be sure to use a cheap one. It will be made from plain high carbon steel. An expensive one will be made from tool steel - or bimetallic, made from two different alloys.
 
Most any oil will worrk. Used motor oil is priced right, if you do yor own changes.
After the spring has been heated red, and quenched to harden it, it is necessary to draw back the temper.
I have always just put the spring in a little pan (improvise) with a bit of oil. Heat the pan from underneath until the oil burns. The spring will be wet with burning oil. Idea is that the spring won't get much hotter than the ignition temperature of the oil. After the flame goes out, left it cool, then cross your fingers, install it. First compression will tell the tale.
Do this outside. Smoke, flame and smell.
 
Freyr_255 said:
Depending on if you want to learn how to temper metal you can make one in a couple of different ways. First and easiest is to find something that is roughly the same thickness(aka thin and flat) and made out of a high grade steel. Ideally another spring. Shape it to what you need by heating and rolling the end over and file to final shape. Following that harden and temper it to a spring hardness(blue I think it is...would have to look it up).

Alternatively if you start with a material that is hardened appropriately and carve the shape of the spring out you don't have to heat it. More work IMHO but at times easier if your not prepared or set up to heat metal. Best thing would be to find an old car leaf spring and cut a piece out of it to carve up. Just make sure to cool it regularly as any discoloration and you've screwed the temper.

Really if I had my forge set up I could make you one in no time at all, but alas it's in pieces from moving to the Yukon and I need a new anvil as I no longer have my Dad's to use(it's about 150 years old...like most good anvils..and he wouldn't let me take it).
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temper color will depend on alloy used igot a book on lock making i'll pull it out and see what it says in a bit
 
Lots of good info here but I still don't think I'm set up to do it myself. Does anybody feel that this is within there ability. I will pay your time and any and all incurred expenses
 
Width and thickness?

That is about the simplest spring to deal with.

Grab some music wire the same thickness. Bend and cut to length. Install. Won't look original.

Don't even bother dicking about with trying to harden and temper a spring for that.

If you want to look like the original, find a piece of flat spring and file it to size as required. Polish the surfaces up with finer wet or dry sandpaper, and install. Sprind stock is a bit tough to file, but a sharp file will work it without any issues. Dull files are misery.
I'd start looking around a small engine shop, for a piece of starter spring (from a pull starter) or similar coiled up sprigs the correct width, and work from there.

If you need to bend the end and the spring stock keeps breaking, stick the spring in a potato, leave the end you want to bend sticking out, and heat the end with a propane torch. then bend. The potato will stop the heat traveling up the spring stock.
Polish up the end (some 320 or 400 grit wed or dry) you want soft, and wipe a sharpie marker or magic marker across the area, then heat until the marker burns off. Easy-peasy! Dead soft, and will bend double. But try bending the spring first.

A hacksaw will cut spring temper steel, as will a file.

Save the dicking about with hardening and tempering random bits of steel, for another day.

Cheers
Trev
 
While I thought that Hugh's video was good, I would like to add a couple of points. I will preface them by commenting that I make 5 or 10 mainsprings a year.

first point is that I have tried using a truck leaf spring for making a large V spring; the particular spring that I used appears to require heating to well over 740 F to draw it to spring temper. I have stopped using them for that reason. I use drill rod (3/8" will work for most main springs) and use a cutting torch as a source of heat and hammer the rod to approximate thickness. most main springs run around .1" at the base or thick end and around .07" at the tip or thin end. Because I am starting with round stock, I leave a lump at the end to file into the hooked portion. I used to bend the end into a hook but it is much easier to file the hook.

for hardening and drawing the temper, I quench into water with about 3/8" of oil on the surface; minimal smoke and it works. I now draw the springs in molten lead at 720 F using a high temp thermometer. I used to use Hugh's method of burning oil but over the last year or two, the new oil available has been very difficult to keep burning. I use a piece of cotton patching as a wick when I use the burning oil method. As an alternate to a high temp thermometer, you can float a thin piece of steel or iron on the lead (as it is heating up) and pull the plug on the pot when the steel changes from dark blue to grey. That narrow transition temperature is what you are looking for.

cheers mooncoon
 
MaxKW said:
Lots of good info here but I still don't think I'm set up to do it myself. Does anybody feel that this is within there ability. I will pay your time and any and all incurred expenses
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So. What is the length and thickness? And the approximate amount of curvature, either as a radius, or in overall height? And the dimensions of the bent portion.

Do you have a digital caliper? The CTire one that goes on sale for $20 or less, is fine.

I'll root around and see what I have for spring stock around.

Cheers
Trev
 
Ok guys I did more assuming than investigating on this one and it turns out the pieces I pulled out of there used to be a V spring. I had a couple of them here but they are too small.

The one I need is .196" wide by .043 with a lenght of .740, that last measurment can change a bit depending how you measure it but thats the easiest thing to change so no big deal.

Any body have anything close to those measurments in the parts bin?
 
MaxKW said:
Ok guys I did more assuming than investigating on this one and it turns out the pieces I pulled out of there used to be a V spring. I had a couple of them here but they are too small.

The one I need is .196" wide by .043 with a lenght of .740, that last measurment can change a bit depending how you measure it but thats the easiest thing to change so no big deal.

Any body have anything close to those measurments in the parts bin?
Click to expand...

I've had good luck making v-springs with big paper clips. The ones that are made out of black spring steel with the folding chrome wire arms. Available at any staples or similar store. I find the largest ones (they open to maybe an inch and a bit) are the best.

Cut a strip off one end in the width you need. Then trim one leg off to make a 'v' instead of an 'M' shape. Cut that down until it fits and you are golden... Easy and with a large clip you can cut four out and have a few spares.
 
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