need advice cleaning BP percussion rifle

timandkimandshea

timandkimandshea

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Hi there,
I just picked up a .32 cal Traditions deerhunter percussion cap, my question is after the hot water down the barrel treatment, how do you make sure all the water is out of there??
Unlike my inline ML, you cant really tell. I gave it a shot of compressed air, is there any trick to this??
Thanks
Tim

Heres a pic, tried it out today, but the snow was coming down like crazy, so I only got a couple of shots.


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Brian James said:
You could swab the barrel with dry patches and then use a water displacing oil like wd40.

Brian
Click to expand...
That's the way I do it - water until clean, dry patches, WD40 and finally a good metal preservative. I favor RIG, which has worked for me for the better part of 40 years. Dry patch before next shooting session to remove RIG. I shoot flint, but would use same procedure for percussion. Snap a cap before first loading at next shooting session.
 
Hi,

I have many blackpowder guns

the most effective way to clean is use hot soapy water and if at all possible use boiling water

the boiling water evaporates very quickly so chances are no bore rusting will occur

also be sure to remove powder drum clean out screw to allow for faster drying
 
Where did you find such a rifle in that caliber?? As for the after the water and the puff with an air compressor, I would swab/patch it well, followed by a dose of wd-40. I store any ML under my roof in normal gun oil, cleaning well before use.
 
I saw in the OTHER classified firearms website. It was a private sale. Its pretty neat, has more "character" than my modern in-line .50 cal.
Shot it a few times before the snowstorm drove me in. Quite quiet, and very little recoil. I was shooting a .31 round ball with patch, 40 grains of FFF pushing it. If anyone has any input on loads, or really anything I welcome the input, this is all new to me.
Thanks
Tim

saskgunowner101 said:
Where did you find such a rifle in that caliber?? As for the after the water and the puff with an air compressor, I would swab/patch it well, followed by a dose of wd-40. I store any ML under my roof in normal gun oil, cleaning well before use.
Click to expand...
 
pearcetopher said:
Hi,

I have many blackpowder guns

the most effective way to clean is use hot soapy water and if at all possible use boiling water

the boiling water evaporates very quickly so chances are no bore rusting will occur

also be sure to remove powder drum clean out screw to allow for faster drying
Click to expand...

Exactly what I've been doing for 25 years, although to be honest I've never pulled the clean out screw (it's a GPR so really doesn't have one) - only the nipple. It does dry fast. Very simple, very fast, no problems so far. If she's going to sit for a while just an oiled patch down the bore seems to last years. As always, YMMV - this is the intermanet.
 
Yep hot water. Remove the barrel from the stock. Grab an empty ice cream bucket half fill it with HOT soapy water. Stick the breech end in the soapy water, make sure the bolster is submerged, using a proper size cleaning jag with a clean patch on your ramrod push the ramrod down the bore to force the air out through the nipple bolster, don't forget a heat pad to protect your hand -barrels get hot quick. Pump SLOWLY up and down with the ramrod to draw the water up the bore. You will figure it out once you start pumping and don't forget to swap out you patches every few minutes. Once you finished with the soapy part, rinse and repeat with hot clean water. After the rinse stand the barrel up muzzle down to drain then hit it with wd40.
 
I was a hot soapy water guy until I came across a mixture of Murphy Oil soap, ethanol anhydrous (rubbing alcohol), and hydrogen peroxide that results in a three patch cleaning. Followed up with a patch saturated with Ballistol and I'm done. Warning: Some people can't stand the smell of Ballistol, lol!
 
timandkimandshea said:
I saw in the OTHER classified firearms website. It was a private sale. Its pretty neat, has more "character" than my modern in-line .50 cal.
Shot it a few times before the snowstorm drove me in. Quite quiet, and very little recoil. I was shooting a .31 round ball with patch, 40 grains of FFF pushing it. If anyone has any input on loads, or really anything I welcome the input, this is all new to me.
Thanks
Tim
Click to expand...

I have an old book by Sam Fadala?? that should have some loads listed. If I don't come back here, shoot me a pm.
 
I am wondering if the .31 ball isn't a bit small for a 36 Cal. rifle,seems to me it should be .350 with a 10 thou patch.

I haven't had any first hand experience with a .36 Cal rifle as they are few and far between but I shoot a .440 ball in my .45 Cal and a .490 ball in the .50 Cal. both with a 10 thou patch.
 
As stated, boiling hot soapy water, then clear boiling water rinse. Most will evaporate off, but run a few dry patches through, then apply WD40 liberally. My father in law has been shooting black powder since it was invented, and this is what he swears by!
 
Good call, that was a typo. it is in fact a .32 cal
T

Skinny 1950 said:
I am wondering if the .31 ball isn't a bit small for a 36 Cal. rifle,seems to me it should be .350 with a 10 thou patch.

I haven't had any first hand experience with a .36 Cal rifle as they are few and far between but I shoot a .440 ball in my .45 Cal and a .490 ball in the .50 Cal. both with a 10 thou patch.
Click to expand...
 
I think I was mixed up on my books. In any event, it's a Lyman black powder handbook (copyright 1975!) and the only loads with 31 cal are for BP revolvers, the rifle data is 36 cal and up.
 
In his book "Black Powder Loading Manual", Sam Fadala tests several .32 cal rifles, including a Traditions "Crockett".

He used from 10 grs of FFFg to 40 grs FFFg with a .310, 45 gr ball and a .013 linen patch.

He recommends the 20 gr load for small game and targets. He says the 30 gr load is "optimal" because it gave almost as much velocity as the 40 gr load (1911 fps for 30 grs, 2001 fps for the 40 grs).
 
For years, I have followed the above advice for cleaning, but in addition, I toss the barrel in the oven on low heat for while. It pretty much guarantees that all the water will be gone. Failing that, do all of the above, especially standing the barrel in a corner for a while, muzzle down. Then oil. As for WD40, remember that it evaporates over time, leaving your bore unprotected. I run a patch down with engine oil after it is fully dry, if the rifle is going to be out of action for a while. Remember to clean all the oil out before you shoot next time, as petroleum products tend to react with BP residue, creating a harder residue that is tough to remove.
 
RE use of WD-40
The Traditions Bore butter specifically warns against using any synthetic chemical or petroleum based solvent, as it works against the seasoning effect you are trying to accomplish with the bore butter. If I am sure all moisture is out, hot barrel, bolster screw out, compressed air, might it be wise to go straight to bore butter on a patch, and skip the solvent all together??
T
 
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