Need Expert Lee Enfield Help

C

Cam_S

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Hello Guys,

I have a problem and I need your advice. I am wanting to take apart my LE No 1 Mk 3 for two reasons. The first is to give it a good cleaning and the second is to change the Butt because it has a pieces broken off. I have got eveything stripped down except for the stock and the Butt. This is where the problem lies.

The middle Screw on the bottom of the stock and the Butt Screw inside of the Butt are stuck. They will not move a millimeter. They will not twist or anything. What can i do??????

This is what I have tried. I have soaked the stock screw from the bottom and top in Oil but it still won't budge. I can't reach the stock screw so I dn't know what to do there. Since I am Changing the butt with an original and much better condition butt I guess I could cut it off but this would be my last option.

Please I need some Ideas before I go Insane.

Cam
 
If you mean the screw that holds the butt on, it's a bolt that can only be unsrewed through the buttplate trap hole. You need a LONG screwdriver.

Many guys use the L-shaped tire iron screwdriver that comes with most cars.

Personally, I splurged and bought the proper screwdriver at crappy tire ;)

Beware that sometimes a leather washer covers the screw head and needs to be fished out with a bent coathanger to access the screw slot.
 
I'm not sure if you have removed the forend or not. There is a plate in the rear of the forend which engages the tip of the large butt screw. If the buttscrew is turned with the forend in place, the forend can be split. Are you using screwdrivers that fit well? Sometimes it helps if the screwdriver is held firmly in place, and is then tapped with a hammer. Judicious heating can work, but this is impossible if wood is involved. Be careful with oil around wood; oil soaked wood is a problem in its own right.
 
Lee Enfield Problems

Hello,

Claven- With regards to the Butt Stock, I know the Screw is in the trap door. There was no leather cover and I have a 12in Screw Driver. I can get the Screw driver seated in the screw but it just will not turn.

Tiriaq- I have removed the top two peices of wood. However the bottom piece will not come off. The Screw that is just behind the middle retaining band and sling swivel will not move at all. I have tried the oil here but it is not working. How does the heating work. I understand that wood and heat don't go well together so it might not be something that I want to try.

Thanks for the help guys,

Are there any other ideas out there?

Cam
 
The screw just behind the middle band threads into the collar around the barrel. All I can suggest is to secure the rifle in a padded vice, use a strong well fitted screwdriver, and grab the screwdriver with a wrench or vicegrip for added leverage. An impact tool might work. As a last resort, the head of the screw could be drilled off. The buttstock screw won't come out until the forend is removed. Once you have the forend off, secure the rifle in the vice, and use a wrench or vicegrip on your 12" screwdriver, again to increase leverage. Its pretty hard to reallyy apply force if you have to hold the rifle with one hand and turn the driver with the other. You can only use heat if there is no wood.
 
First of all, make sure you use screwdrivers that fit the screwhead properly. Place the rifle in a padded vise. Now hit the back end of the screwdriver while trying to twist the screwdriver at the same time, all the while applying downward pressure as well. This is like using an impact driver (that's why the rifle has to be secured properly in the vise, so you have both hands available). This method will un-loosen almost all rusted screws. Good luck and let us know how you made out :cool:
 
Thanks for the Help

Hey Guys,

Thanks again for all of the help.

Rifledude- just one question. Do I hit the screw driver in a downward motion on the top, kind of like a hammering in a nail? If this is so, won't this just drive the screw in deeper or will it just break the rust?

I will try the vice method as soon as possible and keep you guys posted on what is going on.

Thanks,
Cam
 
Cam_S said:
Rifledude- just one question. Do I hit the screw driver in a downward motion on the top, kind of like a hammering in a nail? If this is so, won't this just drive the screw in deeper or will it just break the rust?
Thanks,
Cam
Click to expand...

Yes, that's the idea. Give it a firm downward rap, but don't pound the sh%t out of it ;) The rapping on the screwdriver will usually break the rust bond :)

Once you remove the fore-end, you can also apply creeping oil to the end of the stock screw where it comes through the butt socket. But I've found the "pound-the-screwdriver" method will usually work.
 
If you havent heard this one already, with a similar problem I was encouraged to get a heavy screwdriver with a square shaft. You can put a wrench on the flats and, keeping heavy forward pressure to make sure the tip doesnt slip out of the screwhead slot, turn the screwdriver with the (long) wrench. You can really get some torque on it with that method.
 
Thanks For the help

Hello,

I finally got the old girl apart.

It took a impact driver to get the stock retaining screw off. Once this was off, it looked like some one had put thread lock or something similar on it. Needless to say, the screw was ruined. I have another so no problem there. The Butt Stock Came apart as well. Had to use a ratchet on this one but there was no damage done and it came out perfectly.

Thanks for all of the help.

Cam
 
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