Need help identifying rifle
- Thread starter Jericho
- Start date
FRY
Your rifle is a Canadian made Cooey from Coburg Ontario. The Model 75 started in 1937 as the Mohawk Model 75 and in 1939 changed to Model 75. Cooey Model 75 should be on top of the reciever with the caliber. It is a single shot manual #### 22. These were made up to the early 50's. The later being Winchester Cooey.None of these were serialized and the CFC gives them the number from the registration card. This acts as the firearms serial.There is no way of pinpointing the year of manufacture except that yours is somewhere from 1937 to about 1950. They are very good shooters . Have fun with it. Bob
Your rifle is a Canadian made Cooey from Coburg Ontario. The Model 75 started in 1937 as the Mohawk Model 75 and in 1939 changed to Model 75. Cooey Model 75 should be on top of the reciever with the caliber. It is a single shot manual #### 22. These were made up to the early 50's. The later being Winchester Cooey.None of these were serialized and the CFC gives them the number from the registration card. This acts as the firearms serial.There is no way of pinpointing the year of manufacture except that yours is somewhere from 1937 to about 1950. They are very good shooters . Have fun with it. Bob
The rifling is perfect. Gun is in awesome shape. I'm gonna test it at the range tomorrow hopefully. I hope it likes Stingers. If it's a decent enough rifle, I may use it in an upcoming rimfire competition... no fine tuned rifles allowed, iron sights only.
Just curious, wondering if anyone knows how to take down the bolt? It springs apart if you pull on both ends slightly, but that's it. I'd like to clean the spring inside, etc.
Just curious, wondering if anyone knows how to take down the bolt? It springs apart if you pull on both ends slightly, but that's it. I'd like to clean the spring inside, etc.
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The bolt does not come apart easily. It was not designed to be disassembled , spray it with a spray gun cleaner, then oil with gun oil, don't oil with WD40( unless the gun fell into the lake). If the bolt really screws up or the firing pin breaks , get a new bolt. Also the barrel and action are not designed to come apart easily . One screw takes the barreled receiver off of the stock and opening the bolt , then pulling the trigger lets the bolt come out of the receiver, thats as far as the average shooter should go with disassembly.
Look at the guide pin on the cylindrical hammer portion of the bolt. It is reduced in diameter, and passes through the bolt. Look on the opposite side, you may see the pin. If you drive it out, the hammer will come off the striker rod. Look at the rear of the bolt body. You will see a collar with two cuts for a wrench. Make a little wrench to fit. Unscrew the collar, the striker rod and mainspring will come out of the bolt. Remove the extractor. Lift the hook end, pull foreward. There is a pin underneath that secures the firing pin. Tap it out, it will fall into the bolt. Remove the firing pin.
Look, these bolts are not intended to be dismantled. It can be done, but unless there is a very good reason, don't. The installation of the hammer onto the striker rod is semi permanent. It is easy to break the extractor while trying to remove it.
Better to wash the bolt with solvent, then lube it.
If you can find a new bolt, it will have to be fitted. A used bolt may cause excess headspace.
Look, these bolts are not intended to be dismantled. It can be done, but unless there is a very good reason, don't. The installation of the hammer onto the striker rod is semi permanent. It is easy to break the extractor while trying to remove it.
Better to wash the bolt with solvent, then lube it.
If you can find a new bolt, it will have to be fitted. A used bolt may cause excess headspace.
After a trip to the range tonight, the rifle enjoys CCI stingers with inch groupings at 25 yards ironsights. However I notice that there's only one screw that attaches the barrel to the stock and when I push the bolt forward or #### the bolt, it moves the barrel back and forth about a 1/16 of an inch. Wondering what could cure that?
Also, the bolt isn't as easy to move as I thought. It's all cleaned up and looks top notch, but if I use my hand on the ball portion of the bolt to push it forward, it doesn't move. If I apply the same force in further on the lever, then I've no problems.
Other than that, fantastic shot for an old rifle. Glad to have made the purchase.
Also, the bolt isn't as easy to move as I thought. It's all cleaned up and looks top notch, but if I use my hand on the ball portion of the bolt to push it forward, it doesn't move. If I apply the same force in further on the lever, then I've no problems.
Other than that, fantastic shot for an old rifle. Glad to have made the purchase.
I have a Cooey Model 75 labelled as a "Sureshot." I understand that "Sureshot" was the brand name given to Cooey Model 75s sold by the Simpsons stores after WW2. If someone could add any information to this point, please do. Mine is in very good condition and shoots very well with groups of less than 1 inch at 25 yards.
