Skullboy said:
Removing the Cosmoline/Packing grease your New M305/M14.
Simple Green works good for degreasing firearms.I used the concentrated stuff and diluted it as needed, then wiped the rifles down with Isoprophyl Alcohol and a final wipe down with G96 gun oil.
A toothbrush is good for scrubbing the parts.You just need to field strip the rifle.You do not have to remove the gas system from the barrelled action to clean it.
You want to make sure you do a good job on degreasing the trigger assembly and bolt.
Lubricating the M14 Type Rifles.
The only two thing you want to lube with gun oil are the trigger assembly pivot points, and the firing pin.All other lubing should be done with a good quality grease.
You want to grease the following areas:
-Bolt roller
-bolt lugs
-The bolt tracks inside the reciever
-the underside of the bolt
-the nose of the hammer
-Operating Rod track
-Inside the Op Rod "hump"(where the bolt roller fits.HINT a small syringe filled with grease works great for lubing this area).
-Recoil spring guide rod
-Where the Op Rod slides through the op rod guide
Source for Grease Syringes:
Okay M14 , M1A and M1 Garand lovers:
I found the curved tip glue syringes that are perfect for applying GREASE to your :
Op rod raceways
Op rod guide
Bolt lugs
Bolt raceways
Hammer hooks
Hammer nose
Go to Lee Valley Tools (google it for yerself) and here is there product number:
Curved-Tip Syringe, ea.
25K07.05 in 2009, they were retailing for $ 2.60 plus taxes. I usually have them for $ 2.00 including the grease at my clinics.
Buy a few for yourself and fill them with whatever CHEAP grease works for your purposes (cold-snowmobile , high-tech- Plastilube, cheap- Ukrainian Tire Bearing Grease)
DO NOT use any lube/oil on the gas assembly!!!!This is a dry gas system.If you use any type of lube here, powder residue will cake up and plug the gas system.You can use a little bore cleaner to clean the gas system, but them make sure to thoroughly clean afterwards.The inside of the gas cylinder nut and the gas piston need to be cleaned out periodically, or carbon will build up inside them and, causing the rifle to "bark" and cycle harder if left long enough.You can use a 5/16 drill bit TURNED IN YOUR FINGERS to clean out the carbon build up from the inside of the gas piston and gas nut.DO NOT use any drills or the like to clean out the inside of the gas cylinder assembly!!!You do not want to scratch the interior walls of the gas cylinder.I would say the gas system should be cleaned every 400 to 500 rounds.
The gas nut does not have to be "cranked" on super tight.Just snug it down enough that it won't loosen up from the recoil.Check the gas nut for tightness every so often.
When cleaning the bore, clean the rifle upside down.This is a critical step if your action has been bedded.This way keeps cleaning solvents from seeping between the stock and reciever.The bore cleaner will eat away at the bedding material.
You must clean the bore from the muzzle end on these rifles.To keep the bolt from releasing, lock back the bolt and insert a steel stripper clip into the stripper clip guide so that i covers the bolt face.This will stop you from releasing the bolt inadvertently with your cleaning rod(this trick only works if you have the original stripper clip guide.Won't work if you have a 3rd generation scope mount).For a bore guide, take a spent 12 gauge shotshell, and cut of the crimped end.Then drill out the spent primer slightly larger then your cleaning rod.This will slip perfectly over the flash suppressor and protect the muzzle crown and inside of the flash suppressor form cleaning rod damage.
That should cover everything.
hxxp://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?p=302239#post302239
Dont forget to clean out your bolt with brake cleaner or hot water...it should rattle when you shake it
Certified Brake Cleaner Product #38-1430-2
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/Brakes/BrakeFluid/PRD~0381421P/Certified%252BBrake%252BCleaner.jsp?locale=en
Motomaster Carburetor Cleaner Product #38-0720-8
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineTreatments/PRD~0380720P/Motomaster%252BCarburetor%252BCleaner.jsp?locale=en
Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner, 4L Product #53-2462-2
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/3/CleaningToolsVacuums/All-PurposeCleaners/PRD~0532462P/Simple%252BGreen%252BAll-Purpose%252BCleaner%25252C%252B4L.jsp?locale=en
Simple Green Cleaner & Degreaser, 946ml Product #39-0465-4
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/CarWashingCleaning/AllPurposeCarCleaners/PRD~0390465P/Simple%252BGreen%252BCleaner%252B%252526%252BDegreaser%25252C%252B946ml.jsp?locale=en
Motomaster White Grease, 450g Product #28-0806-0
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/LubricantsPenetrants/PRD~0280806P/Motomaster%252BWhite%252BGrease%25252C%252B450g.jsp?locale=en
Shell Advance Snow Ultra Grease Product #28-1702-0
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/PowersportChemicals/PRD~0281702P/Shell%252BAdvance%252BSnow%252BUltra%252BGrease.jsp?locale=en
Isopropyl Alcohol
hxxp://www.walmart.ca/Health-Wellness/Pharmacy/Home-Health-Care/RougierVap-Isopropyl-Alcohol-USP-99
Curved-Tip Syringe 25K07.05
hxxp://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20003&cat=1,110,42967
3-in. Leaf Feeler Gauge Product #58-1246-4
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/SpecialtyTools/MechanicsSpecialtyTools/PRDOVR~0581246P/3-in.%252BLeaf%252BFeeler%252BGauge.jsp?locale=en
RCBS Precision Mics (RCBS precision case micrometers)
hxxp://www.huntingtons.com/measurementtools.html
Clymer GO/NO-GO GAUGE SETS (don't get the Forster)
hxxp://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26876/Product/GO_NO_GO_GAUGE_SETS
CLP break free or G96 spray.
[I have G96, and Otis]
I shoot 1.638 chambered m305's, m14s's every couple days, test firing clients rifles.
the ammo i use is federal power shok 150 gr SP.
-- M14Doctor
hot water and citris based cleaner is great..... and another excellent product is Simply Green .... another benefit is while these cut grease like a charm..... they are all non toxic.
i use pipe cleaners(firing pin channel, spindle valve hole), tooth brush(receiver raceways , oprod track and other nooks and crannies) and a soft cloth to wash the parts down then rinse in hot hot water..... IMMEDIATELTY towel dry each part as it comes out of the rinse and get yourself a spray can of CLP break free or G96 spray. Do Not apply the spray to bolt guts, firing pin channel, gas piston, inside gas cylinder, just ensure these are dry. The metal will be hot from the rinse so these parts will be moisture free with a quick towel dry. The rest of the parts, apply the spray of G96 or CLP and wipe down well. Grease as per Maple leaf eh's instructions above and yer good to go
-- M14Doctor
My preference for cleaning is a deep bucket of scalding hot water and citrus based engine degreaser. Strip the rifle to nothing. Spray on the degreaser and scrub with a plastic dish brush. Dunk in hot water to rinse. Pull them out, shake off the excess water and let the rest air dry. Give everything a goodly coating of light machine oil - not solvent or penetrating oil. Petroleum axle grease as per SOP (hammer hooks, bolt lug races, op rod track and rear bearing surfaces of the bolt). Get all the gunk out of the bolt, especially the firing pin cavity. And always fire with the gas piston dry, no oil.
-- maple_leaf_eh
Gunk Citrus Engine Brite Product #38-1325-4
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineCleaneEngineDegreasers/PRD~0381325P/Gunk%252BCitrus%252BEngine%252BBrite.jsp?locale=en
For guns chambered in 7.62 NATO, here are the headspace limits (in inches):
GO: 1.6355"
NO-GO: 1.6405"
FIELD: 1.6455"
And for .308 Winchester chambers:
GO: 1.630"
NO-GO: 1.634"
FIELD: 1.638"
I say the hell with specialty tools when you can find an everyday tool to do the same thing, but that's just me.
