need help picking out equipment

luc2121

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i am looking into reloading, the 2 calibers i need to reload for are 50-70 and 40-90 straight sharps.i've never reloaded and know nothing about it. i will be loading at max 200 of each at most a year. If possible i would like to use the same powder for both. i've some some google searches and found info on the 50-70 but theres barely any info on the 40-90. what do i need , what should i buy ? from reloading manuals to bullits to powder. any help would be appreciated.

thanks Luc
 
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You have some unique rifles, for I have 5 reloading books and only one gives data for a 50-70 (government), and nothing on the 40-90. Curious, do you use lead bullets?

"ABC's of reloading" is highly recommended by many and I would recommend it as a first read. Lyman has a pretty good book, and includes data for 50-70 gov. Hornaby, Speers, Nosler, and Sierra (to mention a few) also have good books, and I try to choose my books by the bullets I use (but thats just me).

Regarding reloading equipment, start checking out your local gun shops to see what they have and what prices are like. Lee, Dillion, Hornaby, RCBS (to mention a few) all have single stage press reloading packages that are quite reasonable. Not thinking you need anything fancy for the small volume you are talking about.

I would also look into to what bullets the local gun shops stock/carry and this may help you get load data and decide on what bullets you will use ... and powder recommendations might be able to be obtained from the bullet manufacturer. I'm thinking you wont have a big selection of bullets to pick from, due to the calibers.

for equipment, in general, you will need:
- a press - single stage would suit you well
- most presses or kits don't come with a bullet holder or dies, so you need to get a bullet holder and a resizing die set specific to your caliber. Not exactly sure of you shell configuration so unable to tell you which die set ... 2 or 3 piece .. you need.
- brass cleaning tools (primer pocket brush, neck cleaning brush, deburring tool, and a flash hole cleaning tool). Many packages come with what they call a cleaning center, which includes all these, but for your volume not really required.
- case trimmer and calipers
- case tube and and a brush to apply lube to inside of neck
- primer removing and installing tools. Alot of presses have this built into the press, so you may not need to purchase seperately.
- brass cleaner, such as a tumber or ultra sonic cleaner. I really like the ultra sonic cleaner for it is fast and does a very good job (just remember to wash off your shells with warm water and baking soda after ultra sonic cleaning (otherwise the brass will tarnish).
- powder measurer, alot of packages will come with a beam scale or an electronic scale. I use the RCBS chargemaster, which is an electronic scale that automatically wieghs and dispences the entered grains. A beam scale would suffice for your needs if you want to keep the costs down. I would avoid "cheap" electronic scales.
- trays, for holding your shells during the reloading stages.
- work space/bench and lots of PATIENCE.

Note: most components ie dies do not need to be manufacturer specific. ie you have have an hornaby press and use RCBS dies.

to reload, I follow this process.
- lube the outside of the shell and the inside of the neck (using a wire brush) with case lube. It doesnt take a lot, use sparingly, and avoid lube the outside of the neck as much as possible.
- install bullet holder into press
- install Full length resizing die into press, and resize and remove primer. Alot of presses will do this at the same time. (i use bottle neck cases so I use a 2 piece die)
- trim shells to length, using a case trimmer and calipers. Reloading books will state the trim to lenght.
- clean brass using a tumbler or ultra sonic cleaner and let dry. Air dry, best not to use oven for you can over heat the brass and reduce its life.
- clean primer pocket, remove burrs, clean inside of neck and flash hole
- install primer. Most presses will do this.
- put shells in tray and measure out powder and fill shell.
- install bullet seating die, put loaded shell into bullet and place bullet .. then seat bullet.
- measure the overal lenght of the bullet using calipers to ensure you have correct length, which is provide in most load data.
- inspect loaded shell for craps, dents, proper primer seating etc
- check to see if will chamber in your gun .. if yes you are good to go .. otherwise adjust seating depth.

Always check you brass and final bullet for quality and defects.

The above is minimum, and you can get other tools to fine tune your bullet such as OAL guages and head space gauges ... but that all comes one the basics or mastered.
 
.40-90 Straight Sharps - Cartridges of the World , 3rd edition by Frank C Barnes gives two loads using 370 gr cast Lyman #403171 bullets.

- The first is 30 gr of 4198, giving 1,400 fps and 1,612 ft/lb muzzle energy.

- The second says FL, but gives no charge weight. It says 1,387 fps and 1,582 ft/lb.

There were, of course, at least five .40-90 cartridges.

.50-70 Musket from the same source:

- 450 gr bullet over 70 gr Fg gives 1,260 fps and 1,488 ft/lb. Load described as, "Orig load."

- .450 gr bullet over 26 gr of 4198 gives 1,410 fps and 1,987 ft/lb. Described as, "Max load for Springfield or old blk. powder rifle."

- 425 gr bullet over FL (no weight given) giving 1,275 fps and 1,535 ft/lb.

- 450 gr bullet over FL (no weight given) giving 1,260 fps and 1,488 ft/lb.

- 350 gr bullet over 38 gr 3031 giving 1,310 fps and 1,333 ft/lb.

- 450 gr bullet over 36 gr 3031 giving 1,270 fps and 1,611 ft/lb.

For what it's worth. Use at your own risk.
 
thanks for the great answers, the 50-70 gvt is for a new model 1863 sharps rifle that is in near fine original condition and wont be shot much, the 40-90 straight sharps is for a 1885 winchester high wall. been searching the web for 40-90 info and havent found much. i dont mind buying load manuals but i want to make sure it has loads for my guns.these are new guns to me and havent loaded for them yet, i imagine i should use lead bullets.
 
thanks for the great answers, the 50-70 gvt is for a new model 1863 sharps rifle that is in near fine original condition and wont be shot much, the 40-90 straight sharps is for a 1885 winchester high wall. been searching the web for 40-90 info and havent found much. i dont mind buying load manuals but i want to make sure it has loads for my guns.these are new guns to me and havent loaded for them yet, i imagine i should use lead bullets.

You'll have a hard time finding a current load manual with load data for either of those. Neither rifles nor ammo have been made for generations.
 
Probably the ideal manual for you is the BP Cartridge Reloading Primer by Mike Venturino and Steve Garbe.
I think it is still available if you Google SPG Lubricants.
 
Those will be hugely fun and rewarding rifles to put into action!

Are you looking to go with the authentic black powder experience or are you looking to load with modern smokeless powders?

For Black: ht tp://www.wahsatchdesperadoes.com/Intro_to_BPCR_Loading.pdf

ht tp://castboolits.gunloads.com/

ht tp://www.bpcr.net/forum/index.php?sid=83d4431996c38b2b3af718a6577c2b1d

There are also stickies in the Antiques forum regarding smokeless loading.
 
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