Need HELP to do a Reality check for reloading in RENTAL apartment with TIGHT SPACE.

thanks again! I am saving all you posts for my project. :)
Last question(I think). when you said the 550b will stick out 6.5", are you talking about mounting with or without the strong mount option? from the video I see, with strong mount, it doesn't stick out. I guess with the strong mount, is wider top, but less height for extra shelf. without the strong mount, the top will be narrow, but I gain 8.5"(strong mount height)x16" for at least one shelf space which is quite useful. not to mention save the money on the mount.

BCRider said:
I want to say go for plywood. But the truth is that a top this narrow can be made from almost anything and be strong and stiff enough. Note that I separate "strong" and "stiff". By now I hope you and the others looking for advice here understand the difference. We want both at once for a good reloading bench top.

Since you don't want a whole lot of left overs I won't mention the plywood option. It's silly to cut this small a work top from a full sheet of plywood. Instead I'd look for some sort of prefinished shelving that you can laminate two layers together to get a good work top.

Since the top will likely be finished already forget about glue working on it. Instead I'd go with drilling a pattern of holes in the lower layer and screw up into the top layer with drywall screws. To effectively "sew" the two layers together go for 4 rows of holes with the holes spaced 4 to 5 inches apart. You want a "grid" of screws that effectively lock the two layers together as if they were glued. The outer rows would run about an inch in from the front and rear edges. Then over the remaining width on the 16 inch width shelving stock run two more rows. You will want to drill and countersink for the screws so you don't have them sticking out below and catching on anything for any reason.

Go for the good finish on the shelving. If you're going to avoid varnishing it should be with something that doesn't mark or stain easily and certainly something water proof.

We didn't talk about it yet but I'd also add enough extras to build on a shelf or two for holding your supplies below the working area. I've found that because the presses stick out from the edge of the table and we need to be back a little to get a good swing on the arm that there's just no need for leg clearance below the table. So spacing the front legs from the wall such that a couple or three of 12 inch wide shelves can be included is a great option.
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The strong mount will allow you to move the whole press back so it's not overhanging the front. But consider the height it adds to the press into your table height.

I'm 6'1". I have the presses mounted on a single layer of 3/4 ply which then bolts to the counter top height work surface (35.5" from floor). This places the arm angle at just over 43 inches off the floor. I work seated on an adjustable office type chair with the lift ram set close to the upper limit to suit my legs. This setup puts the working area of the press neatly near to eye level so I can see all the positions. It also avoids me needing to reach up too far or to stretch down too far as my arm goes through the stroke arc of the lever. And in fact I adjust the chair up and down in 1/2" increments to fine tune this height relationship so my arm won't tire from longer sessions.

If you're appreciably shorter than I am then obviously you'll want your chair set somewhat lower and will want to adjust the other numbers as well. So depending on your height I'd suggest that you want to have the lever at 40 to 43" from the floor. And all the other stuff has to drop into place from there.

Another option instead of a strong riser is to set the working surface to 33 to 36 inches, depending on your height and related chair setting for comfort. Then to fit the press use an 18 to 20 inch wide work surface but cut a suitable size notch into the table to allow for the press and any added things such as the loaded ammo tray that normally sticks out in front on the Dillon.

This also leads to in between options where you lift the press up a little with your own home made riser from stacked lumber and let the ammo drop tray sit on the slightly lowered work surface.

Whatever you end up with you still want the arm handle at 40 to 44 inches off the floor depending on your height. How you get to that will affect the accessories around the press like your bullet supply tray, empty casing tray and the loaded ammo tray.

I will suggest though that it's easier to start a little low and build up with shims of 3/4 ply than it is to rip it all apart so you can lower things.
 
Nice! I am 5'9", so I will just lower everything by 4" and try from there. :cheers:


BCRider said:
The strong mount will allow you to move the whole press back so it's not overhanging the front. But consider the height it adds to the press into your table height.

I'm 6'1". I have the presses mounted on a single layer of 3/4 ply which then bolts to the counter top height work surface (35.5" from floor). This places the arm angle at just over 43 inches off the floor. I work seated on an adjustable office type chair with the lift ram set close to the upper limit to suit my legs. This setup puts the working area of the press neatly near to eye level so I can see all the positions. It also avoids me needing to reach up too far or to stretch down too far as my arm goes through the stroke arc of the lever. And in fact I adjust the chair up and down in 1/2" increments to fine tune this height relationship so my arm won't tire from longer sessions.

If you're appreciably shorter than I am then obviously you'll want your chair set somewhat lower and will want to adjust the other numbers as well. So depending on your height I'd suggest that you want to have the lever at 40 to 43" from the floor. And all the other stuff has to drop into place from there.

Another option instead of a strong riser is to set the working surface to 33 to 36 inches, depending on your height and related chair setting for comfort. Then to fit the press use an 18 to 20 inch wide work surface but cut a suitable size notch into the table to allow for the press and any added things such as the loaded ammo tray that normally sticks out in front on the Dillon.

This also leads to in between options where you lift the press up a little with your own home made riser from stacked lumber and let the ammo drop tray sit on the slightly lowered work surface.

Whatever you end up with you still want the arm handle at 40 to 44 inches off the floor depending on your height. How you get to that will affect the accessories around the press like your bullet supply tray, empty casing tray and the loaded ammo tray.

I will suggest though that it's easier to start a little low and build up with shims of 3/4 ply than it is to rip it all apart so you can lower things.
Click to expand...
 
At 5'9" you don't want to lower it by the full 4". Keep in mind that half that difference is in your legs that will be folded up on the chair. So just dropping the handle height by a couple of inches is fine. The folks that would need to drop down to more like 39 to 40 inches off the floor for the handle height would be those pretty close to 5' even or just a hair taller.
 
you are right. after taking actual measurement of my office chair(highest setting 18.5" from ground to the seat) and computer desk(30.5" from top to ground), I think 32-34" might be the best for me. this height adds a few inch up to the shell plate, it should be ideal height for periodic powder check. will know for sure when I get the press and put it on the computer desk. so, assuming 33.5" from top to ground, I have all the measurements down, except the long side of the bench depending on how much crap I can move around in the closet. also change the legs into two 2x4 in L shape and added 2nd shelf. with huge legs and extra shelf with weight like this, I might not even need to nail the table to the wall, but still have the option if necessary. Also, if I ever have to move, 4-leg table is easier to move than 2-leg table. :)

total 4 pieces of 96 inch long 2x4 with no leftover. :)

workbench_zpsdlj4jgcm.jpg



BCRider said:
At 5'9" you don't want to lower it by the full 4". Keep in mind that half that difference is in your legs that will be folded up on the chair. So just dropping the handle height by a couple of inches is fine. The folks that would need to drop down to more like 39 to 40 inches off the floor for the handle height would be those pretty close to 5' even or just a hair taller.
Click to expand...
 
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