Need help with my Ruger M77 MkII .338 WM

armedpilgrim

armedpilgrim

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Hi everyone, I'm a newbie here, and just wondered if anyone can help me. I just bought a Ruger M77 MkII in .338 WM, and I can't get it to shoot worth s**t! I'm so frustrated! Anyone know anything about these guns?:mad:
 
Most often its user error, not the gun. We need more info to help you.

What kinda groups are you getting?

Is it scoped? Could be a bad or loose mount.

That is a larger caliber, are you flinching?

I am assuming you are on a good benchrest.
 
I'm getting 4" groups at best at 100 yds. The scope is rock solid, I'm positive on that, and I'm not flinching, it's on a solid benchrest, not to mention I was also testing some new loads for my .375 H&H Ruger no.1, and getting .5" groups.
 
I wouldn't say I'm a totally experienced shooter, but I've been shooting for a couple of years now, and never had a problem getting decent groups with my other rifles. I just can't understand why I'm all over the paper with a cold, clean barrel.
 
I actually have found very little difference in the performance of factory or handloads for this gun. The factory stuff I'm shooting is Winchester Super X 200 gr.,and Win. Supreme 225 gr. The handloads I've been testing are Remington brass on some, Win brass on others, shooting Nosler Accubond 225 gr. and H4350 powder.
 
I know one of the issues with Rugers are their triggers are lawyer-proof. This one certainly is. I've found other guys on other forums say that is a contributer to poor accuracy, but I don't understand how that works. If I am using a solid benchrest, could the stiff trigger still be the possible culprit? I've removed the stock trying to figure out how to adjust the trigger, but I have no clue. My Tikka 30-06 and my older Ruger no. 1 have adjustable triggers. Anyone have suggestions as far as bedding, or floating the barrel? I'm still learning about :confused:these things.
 
Is it a synthetic or wood stock? I often find my rugers shoot better floated, and a bad trigger can open groups up, but 4" seems alittle much.Also try alittle forend pressure, put a bussiness card between the barrel and forend and try a few shots.
 
It's a wood stock. A guy in the local gunshop suggested to me to cut a piece of a margerine container lid to fit under the lug to raise up the barrel. I tried that last night, it actually took two pieces to raise it up above the forend of the stock, and I can just slide a dollar bill between the barrel and stock now. I haven't shot it like that yet, but if that doesn't work, I'll try the business card. Thanks for the advice, I need as many ideas as I can find. Does his margerine lid idea sound like a viable way to do this?
 
I have the exact same rifle in stainless and synthetic stock. I have hunted with it for 5 years and it has never let me down even at 400m. However I did find that it was picky when it came to factory ammo. It simply did not like any 225gr factory ammo. I found this rifle specifically favored 250gr ammo. I use federal premium factory 250gr nosler partion ammuntion and it consistantly groups at 3/4 to 1 inch at 100m and 1.5 to 2 icnhes at 200m. I love this weapon and have all the confidence in the world when shooting it. It has never let me down for moose/elk/bear hunting. On the other hand my buddy bought the same weapon and it kicks the #### out of him. He has yet to shoot an animal with it and his groupings are all over the place. I have shot his rifle and I have no problem although I do not like the new style synthetic stock, I have the old ugly canoe paddle stock and prefer it. Also if you do not have a good quality scope that is shock proof and can with stand the recoil of the 338 winmag then that could be part of the problem. By the way my other hunting partner has no problem shooting my ruger with the same grouping. He has taken one moose with my rifle at 300m. I hope this helps.
 
My M77 mkII 338 synthetic stainless shot open groups with Remington safari grade ammunition.
It shoots much better groups with Federal 225gr nosler accubonds, not that this means anything in regards to your rifle. I also saw improvement after a hundred shots or so.
It likes the bore to be dirty, after a proper cleaning, the groups tighten up after a half dozen shots have been fired through it. Other than a quick patch run through it now and then during hunting season, I don’t clean the bore until after hunting season.
 
"...to raise up the barrel...." It's to test the rifle with a pressure point. Rugers tend to prefer one.
Ruger triggers(and most other makes) are definitely heavy out of the factory. Frivolus liability law suits scares them. The manual tells you how to remove the trigger group, but nothing about adjusting it. It scares them that much. There is a factory 'target' trigger though.
However, I don't think a standard Mk II has an adjustable trigger. That's not the end of the world. Either have a smithy do a trigger job, polish(only) the sear and change the trigger spring or put in a Timney trigger.
 
Here's a silly question, are you sure your rings are in the correct location? Ruger rings are different hights for the front and rear. Maybe if the rings are out, the scope needed to be adjusted to the max and it's straining your scope. Or perhaps your scope has developed parallax issues.
 
I have had a Ruger M77 in .338 Win Mag for many years and it shoots very well. It has a MacMillan synthetic stock and a Leupold Vari XIII, 1.75 to 6 X scope. The trigger had been adjusted/polished when I bought it used. My handload is 72 grains of IMR4350, with 200 gr. Nosler Ballistic Tips. Not sure if these bullets are still available, but I have more than I will ever use. I use Winchester cases and Winchester magnum primers. I have no trouble getting 1 inch groups. Don't know if any of this will help, but good luck.
 
A number of years ago I read an article where a Ruger 77 was floated by placing a flat rubber plumber's washer between the action and the stock. I got rid of my Ruger before reading the article so it is only a suggestion.
 
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