need ideas on reinforce the workbench top for dillon 550b

L

luckey

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
Hi, need some ideas on how to reinforce my workbench top for the dillon 550b without the strong mount.

my workbench is 1 inch plywood(2 sheets of 1/2 inch glued and screwed together), but still a little bit too much flex which makes me nervous.
has anyone tried to use either steel sheet or anodized aluminum sheet at the top and bottom of the table top, larger than the dillon base(6x6"), say 8"x9" or 12"x12"?
if so, is the anodized aluminum strong enough, or it has to be steel? and what gauge would be the minimum?

thanks!
 
I take a chunk of grader blade out of the scrap yard, lop it to length with a torch, and blow holes in it for the mounting bolts. Not much flexes with that under the bottom of the bench. Stuff's so hard you can't really drill it or cut it with a saw. And takes a shorter bolt than tube steel.
 
luckey said:
Hi, need some ideas on how to reinforce my workbench top for the dillon 550b without the strong mount.

my workbench is 1 inch plywood(2 sheets of 1/2 inch glued and screwed together), but still a little bit too much flex which makes me nervous.
has anyone tried to use either steel sheet or anodized aluminum sheet at the top and bottom of the table top, larger than the dillon base(6x6"), say 8"x9" or 12"x12"?
if so, is the anodized aluminum strong enough, or it has to be steel? and what gauge would be the minimum?

thanks!
Click to expand...

I used PL glue and bolted 1/4" metal plates on top and bottom of bench.Its rock solid now.
 
No need to over think this. A 2"x 6" lengthwise under or over the top with the press bolted through will do nicely.
 
I used a piece of 1/4" plate aluminum on the entire top of an old reloading bench I had. Glued it with PL Premium spread with a 3/16"v notch trowel and screwed it together. It was solid as a rock and never moved.
Scott...
 
Thanks all! These are all great ideas. I just can't buy the strong mount as my bench and chair have pre-designed height in mind.

I do have some 2x4 left from building this workbench, but also want the bench to look nice as I also use it as extra computer desk. Archer Sam, could you please tell me how thick it your old wood top underneath the aluminum plate? I like this simple and solid solution, but am afraid my existing 1" top is too thin. Worst case, I will combine everyone's idea into 2x4 reinforcement and then one plate on top and one at the bottom. the plates don't have to be as big as yours, but enough to cover the press base because I just feel the 2x4s are too soft and afraid the press will eat into the wood over time like the screws.

Archer Sam said:
I used a piece of 1/4" plate aluminum on the entire top of an old reloading bench I had. Glued it with PL Premium spread with a 3/16"v notch trowel and screwed it together. It was solid as a rock and never moved.
Scott...
Click to expand...
 
luckey said:
Thanks all! These are all great ideas. I just can't buy the strong mount as my bench and chair have pre-designed height in mind.

I do have some 2x4 left from building this workbench, but also want the bench to look nice as I also use it as extra computer desk. Archer Sam, could you please tell me how thick it your old wood top underneath the aluminum plate? I like this simple and solid solution, but am afraid my existing 1" top is too thin. Worst case, I will combine everyone's idea into 2x4 reinforcement and then one plate on top and one at the bottom. the plates don't have to be as big as yours, but enough to cover the press base because I just feel the 2x4s are too soft and afraid the press will eat into the wood over time like the screws.
Click to expand...

Mine was the same as yours. 2 sheets of 1/2" laminated together. I used 1" screws with a heavy thread and screwed it every 6".
Scott...
 
You should have laminated two pieces of 3/4 plywood instead of 1/2". Equally important is a solid base. I built my bench with countertop supports on 12" centers. There is absolutely no give in my bench top whatsoever. I would recommend laminating another layer (screw and glue it) and add a few braces.
 
Boomer686 said:
You should have laminated two pieces of 3/4 plywood instead of 1/2". Equally important is a solid base. I built my bench with countertop supports on 12" centers. There is absolutely no give in my bench top whatsoever. I would recommend laminating another layer (screw and glue it) and add a few braces.
Click to expand...

This is good advice.
Scott...
 
Last one I built (not for reloading it's just a work bench) I used 2x12's for the top as three of them side by side was the perfect width. Had it been for heavy duty use I'd have biscuit joined it and glued it. It could easily hold a car engine. First one I built was just 3/4" plywood on 2x4's it worked but would flex with a motorcycle engine on it. A 2x6 bench with 2x12 top may be over kill but I can build it once and it's never going to fail.
 
I guess so. I am newbie to woodwork as well. never build any furniture myself before and didn't want to waste any material. so, everything was coming out of 2x4s and 1 sheet of 48" x 96" 1/2" pre-sanded plywood(as I live in small apartment with no power tools).
cut everything to size @ homedepot and get what I have. It's solid enough for me to hammer my M&P for the apex kit, but still not enough for the press.
Well, it's not too late. I think I will combine your suggestion and Archer's idea to go to homedepot and get another sheet of 1/2" 24"x48" MDF or plywood with one sheet aluminum each on top and bottom. I think that should do it. currently, my bench is like this.(the cabinet door is not installed yet).
IMAG0109_zpszyryxyhc.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]



Boomer686 said:
You should have laminated two pieces of 3/4 plywood instead of 1/2". Equally important is a solid base. I built my bench with countertop supports on 12" centers. There is absolutely no give in my bench top whatsoever. I would recommend laminating another layer (screw and glue it) and add a few braces.
Click to expand...
 
You don't need another layer of plywood. You just need a support bar under the front and rear edges of the knee area. I'd suggest 2x3 instead of 2x4 just to keep as much room for your knees as practical while still giving a good degree of stiffness to the top. In fact go with three pieces so you stiffen up the middle and it doesn't flex like the head of a drum. One at the front and rear set back about 1.5 inches and the other in the middle. To avoid a lot of screw heads use small construction brackets and lots of screws on the inside corners where they can't be seen.

Given your lack of wood working background and lack of tools the desk came out pretty nice. It's not perfect what with the exposed end grain on a couple of the parts but for a first go around it's darn fine.
 
Thanks BCRider, I tried my best. Homedepot does help a lot even though the cuts are not precise.
For the braces, that's what I am trying now. I was struggling to find 1/4" aluminium plate and having 2nd thoughts on the extra layer. So, for the 2x4 braces(would be fine as my table is 32" from floor to bottom of the table), I assume I should them on the long side of the table, right?

BCRider said:
You don't need another layer of plywood. You just need a support bar under the front and rear edges of the knee area. I'd suggest 2x3 instead of 2x4 just to keep as much room for your knees as practical while still giving a good degree of stiffness to the top. In fact go with three pieces so you stiffen up the middle and it doesn't flex like the head of a drum. One at the front and rear set back about 1.5 inches and the other in the middle. To avoid a lot of screw heads use small construction brackets and lots of screws on the inside corners where they can't be seen.

Given your lack of wood working background and lack of tools the desk came out pretty nice. It's not perfect what with the exposed end grain on a couple of the parts but for a first go around it's darn fine.
Click to expand...
 
My bench top is solid but the whole idea didn't appeal to me so I bought a 24x36x1/8 thick steel plate. Buddy degreased it and painted it white. Presses are bolted to it and the plate is C-clamped to the bench. I can still remove the whole thing from my bench if I need the space for another purpose.
 
Went to homedepot today to buy some 1-1/2" wide construction brackets. Put one extra piece 2x4 at the front bottom of the table top(there is already one at the back), drill pocket holes(with kreg jig) to screw the piece horizontally into legs, then 4 brackets to screw it to the table top. at last, added 2 extra brackets to screw the back 2x4 brace to the table top too. what a difference! now it's rock solid. not move a tiny bit. :)



BCRider said:
You don't need another layer of plywood. You just need a support bar under the front and rear edges of the knee area. I'd suggest 2x3 instead of 2x4 just to keep as much room for your knees as practical while still giving a good degree of stiffness to the top. In fact go with three pieces so you stiffen up the middle and it doesn't flex like the head of a drum. One at the front and rear set back about 1.5 inches and the other in the middle. To avoid a lot of screw heads use small construction brackets and lots of screws on the inside corners where they can't be seen.

Given your lack of wood working background and lack of tools the desk came out pretty nice. It's not perfect what with the exposed end grain on a couple of the parts but for a first go around it's darn fine.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Sounds great! And that's exactly what I was suggesting.

The deck of a bridge will flex like over cooked lasagna noodle if it's not backed up with proper framing. A good work desk is no different.

Sorry I didn't respond earlier but I was away for the last 4 days at the SASS Canadian Nationals for cowboy action shooting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom