Need M-1 Carbine Help Pls!!

Gentleman:

I thank you for your input. I took a rubbing of, and have notes on the maker's cartouche at home, will post them later.

I downloaded a manual from the internet, and will try to carefully disassemble when I have the opportunity, and post pictures as I can. Please accept my apologies for the blurred pictures, no matter how hard I tried some just did not turn out.

Further, the "Blood rust" noted above really did not show up until I took close-ups with a flash. I try hard to take care of my firearms, and after shooting, if I can not clean them (as was the case here), I at least wipe them down with oil.

Now gentlemen, the three of you all seem to be in the know, as such what would the worth of such a carbine be.

If I am missing something, or you need some information, ask for it, and I will try to provide it.

I thank you for your attention to this matter and your help

Regards

R
 
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Before I would suggest a worth to that carbine, and as a buyer, I would have to know what condition and markings were on the internals, which you will find out when you break it apart.

IMHO, the carbine is fun and easy to take apart, but you have to do it a couple times before you feel comfortablle with it.

And BTW, usually carbines like yours (with original pre-rebuild flip sights and early front barrel bands without lugs) were either shipped to the German police or snuck through somewhere else. If its a German police, they usually stamped it along the left rail on the receiver beside the bolt with "BAVARIAN RURAL POLICE" or Forestry, or Municipal or somesuch.

I have a Saginaw S'G' much like yours parts wise which was a German police gift and some previous owner srubbed the marking and reblued. I would check yours and see if you can see any evidence of scrubbing.
 
Fair enough, when I have an opportunity, I will break it down and take more pictures.

When I started this had no idea it was going to be so much work!! LOL

regards

R
 
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R. Wagner said:
When I started this had no idea it was going to be so much work!! LOL
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Fun work I hope! :p

Sorry mate, most people wouldn't much care about the little internals, its those Carbine fanatics who would be interested.

On the surface you would probably have no problem getting $450-500 for it. If all the internals are SG and the whole thing cleans up nice, and the bore is nice, thats about what I would be willing to pay. Those who don't know or care about all that stuff may still consider it somewhat high, it all depends on your market.
 
Bitterman I have 60 + m1 carbines and a frew m2's thier is NO way in hell id pay over $350.00 for one here in canada I got my M3 (T3) Inland carbine with the complete scope kit for $275.00 about 6 years ago. many many carbines came into Canada and many still do show up here every few years so that keeps the $ down they are restricted which also kills the value

carbines get no respect here

most guys have no idea what they have and knock off and throw out flip rear sights they grind off marks. worse yet they take complete early carbines and part them out to the U.S gone forever

most of you guys here know i have 2 irwin pedersen m1 carbines all origanal all matching i paid $350 for one and far less for the other they are the rarest m1 carbines made
 
contact148 said:
Bitterman I have 60 + m1 carbines and a frew m2's thier is NO way in hell id pay over $350.00 for one here in canada I got my M3 (T3) Inland carbine with the complete scope kit for $275.00 about 6 years ago. many many carbines came into Canada and many still do show up here every few years so that keeps the $ down they are restricted which also kills the value
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Yea yea contact, I know, I have heard it many times before. That works for you, and thats great. You are a very focused and dedicated collector for sure, among the best in Canada for M1 Carbines I have no doubt. Unfortunately, most people aren't are discerning as you and reality is the M1 Carbine doesn't litter the shelves of every gun store across this great land. When they do come up, often they are being purchased by people like Richard, and for anywhere from $350 on up, especially for those with non-restr barrels.

contact148 said:
most guys have no idea what they have and knock off and throw out flip rear sights they grind off marks. worse yet they take complete early carbines and part them out to the U.S gone forever
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As you stated, people do all the time hack and bubba the Carbine, into a non-restricted or to part out, and that in itself means that the pool of untouched or armoury rebuilt ones shrink, and in turn price goes up. I would like to see some more shipments like what Lever Arms had a couple years ago, but I doubt there will be much more of that. You're a smart chap, and you have many carbines so I imagine you appreciate that the days of the $275 carbine are long gone, except for those gems you can still find once in a while.

contact148 said:
carbines get no respect here
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Like with any firearm. Those that collect appreciate, those that do not....

Thankfully, Richard here respects it enough to have posted looking for info, which we are all more than happy to provide. And I am sure he is more than happy to hear about how many carbines everyone has, but at this point I feel its more important to provide him the info he is seeking. If it is your opinion that his carbine is only worth $275 or $350, then so be it. I however share a different opinion, no matter how many carbines you own or the price you paid for them.
 
Just because Contact148 is talented at convincing people to sell him cheap carbines doesn;t devalue yours' potential Richard. I guarantee that if you put it in the Equipment Exchange with that set of photos with a $500 tag on it, someone will buy it. DEFINITELY if you clean it up first.
 
well maybe someone would pay $500.00 Just not me ever

I got most of mine from the various dealers in the last 15 years

I got my usgi m2's from a dealer in the early 90's picked them out of the boxes 1 winchester 1 inland

others in local papers some online here some at shows ive had 10 or so given to me by people who dont want/like guns

I buy smart i know what i have already and try not to double up to badly if i see a non restricted version i run I have 3 I dont want any more NON GI parts rifles I do have a plainsfied M1 and M2 through

nowadays i only buy if the price is right even if I needed the above rifle id pay no more then 350.00 as i know i can find one for that or do without

I have lots of parts i can restore rifles if needed too (except recievers where did they all go???)

I too fear the end of the milsurp era lets face it these rifle's in this country are NOT an investment we are allways only 1 OIC away from haveing the government steal them from us i soon will par down my collection to only 1 of each and the rarest ones/markings (dont ask Im not ready yet)

my recomendation to richard keep it dont shoot it much, or sell it if you want a shooter get a mixmaster inland no real value there to wear
 
Oh your stock through rare was ruined when the oiler slot was widened to make it easier for someone to insert the sling ive seen that mod a few times i guess the guys were not smart enough to figure the oiler, sling, stock trick! or used and aftermarket repro sling with thicker tabs

I would not try and stip the bolt its a pain unless you know what you are doing and have a third hand the gi bolt toool is avail but I never use them i do it by hand

the gas piston requires a special wrench DO NOT try to use somthing else you will wreck it and it should have the early one (which may also cause short stroking) that why they changd the design a wee bit there

the rear sight was also upgraded at a later date your has NO windage adjust and useless elevation 100/300 ONLY DO NOT replace it
 
Gentleman:

I thank you for your opinions, and for the advice, that for the most part has been tactfully and constructively stated. In the end I do suppose this is a public forum and one must take the good with the bad.

Contact148:

I do appreciate what you had to say, and I will admit that you have greater knowledge than I on the subject of M-1 Carbines. It is truly a shame however, that such a great wealth of knowledge need be shared in a condescending, product bashing, grouchy old Codger type manner, and all valuable information being lost in the expression.

Well, I guess I’m off to find a bolt tool removal tool, and re-read the M-1 manual I found on the net. I hear ebay is a good place to look for these. While Im sure it will take some skill, and some time to disassemble an M-1 carbine, I’m pretty sure its not “Rocket Science”. I will report back when I have some more info and pictures to share.

Regards and all the best

R
 
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product bashing??

why i stated that your stock was ruined which it is from a collectors point it is, its a shooter stock now

I said non restricted m1 carbines are ruined which to a collector they are commercial versions also are crap

grouchy? im not grouchy you want to sell your rifle for 500 go nuts may take you longer then you think

bolt removal tool is NOT needed you only need a tool to take the bolt apart not remove it from the rifle (not really much need to strip the bolt ) it can be done by hand i find that methoed easier BUT you do need a 3rd hand to reassemble


stripping is a 30 sec job loosen not remove the barrel band screw push the stock band spring in slide barrel band up and off the stock. lift the top handguard off. tilt the barreled action up and out of the stock.

put stock aside

remove the trigger houseing push pin pull trigger houseing backwards to remove it from the reciever put it aside

remove oprod spring and guide

move oprod to line up the handle part with the cutout on reciever pull, it will come out of track. move oprod forward line up with cut on barrel rotate and remove

bolt lift front up and rotate out

rifle is field striperd


a not so known secrete tool is your oprod spring guide clean it up and notice how it fits the trigger houseing trigger and hammer pin holes PERFECTLY it is also used to remove/install the hammer spring notice the cut in one side of the hammer? thats to remove/install the hammer spring and spring guide use it to diss/reassemble the trigger houseing IF you take it apart watch the small springs in the mag release area mind the trigger spring its a PITA to put back and no you dont need the spring tool save your $
 
Mr. Contact148:

I appreciate the information shared above. I must admit, you do know your M-1 Carbines.

While I will not disagree with you that the stock may have lost a good portion of its collector value, I might still try to restore it some to the best of my ability.

If you were to undertake such a project, how would you do it, and what type of finish did my type of carbine have originally

I again thank you all for your time and look forward to your response.

R
 
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romev the shalac or varnish useing the most GENTLE methoed you can DO NOT

I REPEAT do not sand the stock!!! also do not saok it as the wood may/will swell possibly destroying any markings

the buttplate comes off easy as does the recoil plate (part right behind reciever) do NOT try and remove the nut that the recoil plate screws into

as for the finish hand rubbed boiled linseed oil is the finnish put a bit a a lint free cloth and rub it in by hand let dry and keep doing that untill the stock looks good to you its a dull finnish but is original and has that old milsurp smell (do it outside or the wife will complain)
 
To remove the varnish, use a paint brush and brush on Poly Suppa Strippa gel from Canadian tire. Let sit a couple minutes, wipe off with paper towel. Repeat as necessary. When done, let dry for at least 24 hours before applying Boiled Linseed Oil as above. All cartouches will be unaffected with this method.

The stock will look DEAD after being stripped, but all the color will come right up again once you apply oil.
 
Claven2 said:
The stock will look DEAD after being stripped, but all the color will come right up again once you apply oil.
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First time I did this, trust me I just about cried thinking the thing had been ruined (I never want to be considered a Bubba, but that Chesterfield shiny varnish was just too much to bear) however after linseeding it up, it turned out just smashing, like a new life.

Its worth it and a good experience. More work unfortunately Richard! ;)
 
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