Need some help with a 303

T

Turkey010

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I might be able to get my hands on a full wood 303

only marks I saw in the pics sent to me are FTR 1953 it has no barrel sticking past the end cap of the stock.

any insight will help will post up a pic or two that was sent to me

looking for value info
 
Hi Turkey010, chances are you could have a No1Mk3* from your description. As far as value, anywhere from $250 to $1000... Pictures will help, including the info stamped on the receiver.
 
Hmmm. Definitely not a Mk4 of any kind then, and most likely an SMLE of some kind, as it's unlikely that any kind of Lee-Metford would have been FTR's in the fifties.

Pictures needed urgently.

tac
 
Try to post a picture that shows the full rifle. If the rear sight is on the barrel, it is a Number 1 rifle. If on the back of the receiver, it is a Number 4 rifle.

A picture of the butt socket, right side, under the bolt knob, where the butt stock meets the receiver, will give a lot more information.
 
I don't use the barrel as an identifier. Look for the back sight. If it is at the rear of the action it is a No.4, and if it is one the barrel it is a No.1. Once you have established which model it is, then you can do the more detailed identification.

FTR just means it was Factory Through Repair 'ed at some point.
 
Most probably a BSA Factory Thorough Rebuild (FTR) SMLE that is black finish coated and looks like this one -

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If it is in excellent almost unused and unaltered condition like this one you could expect to pay at least $800 but if used and knocked around with an average bore expect value to be around $375 to $600 max.
 
Thanks

I will be picking it up over the holidays probably just going to flip it if I can get it for a reasonable price

Rear sight is on the barrel

same as pictures posted above
 
Get proof of good headspace. If you sell it with bad headspace and the guy you sell it to checks it like you should, it'll be you he comes to.
 
Most likely but not necessarily.
The MLMs & MLEs (Long Lees) and LMCs & LECs (carbines) also have the rear sight on the bbl.
The No 1 Mk V has the rear sight on the receiver and they do turn up but rarely, as does the No1 Mk VI.

maple_leaf_eh said:
I don't use the barrel as an identifier. Look for the back sight. If it is at the rear of the action it is a No.4, and if it is one the barrel it is a No.1. Once you have established which model it is, then you can do the more detailed identification.
Click to expand...
 
sunray said:
Get proof of good headspace. If you sell it with bad headspace and the guy you sell it to checks it like you should, it'll be you he comes to.
Click to expand...

Headspace is not a big issue, if you think everyone along the line should headspace a milsurp rifle prior to selling then you need to get out of this line & buy newly manufactured firearms, then & only then can you expect things to be perfect.
 
well I finally managed to get this in my hands will post some pics later today

It is a 1918 SHTLE III with FTR 1953 stamped on the side

It has the black finish on it and shows no peeling or chipping as I have seen on others the mag is black as well

Bolt and receiver share the same S ###

Bore is very clean and very shiny looked terrible but after getting what appeared to be a red grease out she is pristine.

Info I got from owner was it had been his uncles who had it as long as he can remember does not appear to have seen much use since 1953

L8ow6Vt.jpg
 
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If you took grease out of the barrel, you have a winner! - The rifle was packed in grease for storage in 1953. It's possibly an unfired FTR. Check the mag for grease, if it's completely unused since FTR, there'll be cosmoline (grease) in all sorts of places you wouldn't expect. Even if it isn't completely packed, it should be carefully checked before use. There should be no need to check headspace, looks like it just left the factory. That is a beautiful rifle, in "as new" condition. Once clean, a quick rub down of the stock with the appropriate oil, and you're laughing. It depends on your local market, but value should be $800-$1000 all day. I'd say go high with that one, they're scarce in that kind of condition.
 
WHOA!!! Please be aware,
I see you have it listed , also says you will ship with the buttstock removed - STOP!! The No 1 Mk III has a buttstock bolt with a square end, that fits into a square metal keeper in the back of the forestock. If you screw out the buttstock bolt without removing the front wood first, you risk distorting the metal keeper and splitting the rear of the wood internally. Unless the buttstock bolt has been replaced with a later version without the square end, and you really can't tell without dismantling the rifle completely- starting from the front end. Better to spend a few bucks extra to ship intact, than risk damaging it by pulling the buttstock and breaking the forestock.
 
vinver said:
WHOA!!! Please be aware,
I see you have it listed , also says you will ship with the buttstock removed - STOP!! The No 1 Mk III has a buttstock bolt with a square end, that fits into a square metal keeper in the back of the forestock. If you screw out the buttstock bolt without removing the front wood first, you risk distorting the metal keeper and splitting the rear of the wood internally. Unless the buttstock bolt has been replaced with a later version without the square end, and you really can't tell without dismantling the rifle completely- starting from the front end. Better to spend a few bucks extra to ship intact, than risk damaging it by pulling the buttstock and breaking the forestock.
Click to expand...

Exactly correct. As well, there is only one way to correctly remove the fore-stock, and that is at right angles to the bore - if you try to pry down on the front of the stock, you will damage the draws in the rear of the stock - that is way serious damage.
 
vinver said:
WHOA!!! Please be aware,
I see you have it listed , also says you will ship with the buttstock removed - STOP!! The No 1 Mk III has a buttstock bolt with a square end, that fits into a square metal keeper in the back of the forestock. If you screw out the buttstock bolt without removing the front wood first, you risk distorting the metal keeper and splitting the rear of the wood internally. Unless the buttstock bolt has been replaced with a later version without the square end, and you really can't tell without dismantling the rifle completely- starting from the front end. Better to spend a few bucks extra to ship intact, than risk damaging it by pulling the buttstock and breaking the forestock.
Click to expand...

Best bet, all concerned, is to leave it alone and ship it as it is due to the square bolt issue.

Another issue about removing the forestock first-sometimes the stock bolt will be slightly under or over tightened and when you try to remove the forend, it won't come easily or readily. The square tip may be locking into the slot due to not being perfectly square to the slot sides. You may need to slightly tighten or loosen the stock bolt to allow the forend to pull off without damage.
 
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