Need some help with a Ross M10

Guys, you are way too kind!

Will send PM's

I chatted with the family who owns this rifle. They have been waiting for years. They had no idea it could get repaired.

Lou
 
Stuck ross

Hello, Louthepou!

Maybe you could try this:

-The way your bolthead is positioned, you can try getting the extractor out of the way: pull it outwards just enough to clear the groove and push it forward.
It will slide and I think you have enough clearance to get it out of its channel.
-Now, have a look at the rear of the bolt: the firing pin is probably jutting about 3/16ths. There is a small hole in its tail. Make yourself a hook or loop a fine steel wire through it and wrap it around a small piece of wood for a handle.
At that stage, I hope you have the rifle in a padded vise because you have to pull that firing pin all the way.
-There is a sear block on that firing pin; it is held there by a short steel crosspin with tapered ends; push it with a naildriver. It's held by spring tension from the firing pin spring which is quite strong.
- Once this is done, slide the sear block reaward as far as you can.

Now, there is no more tension on the bolthead and you should be able to pivot it by hand; maybe this will allow you to pivot it in a better position to clear the rear of the magazine or slide it towards the front to reveal the rear action bolt.

IF THE BOLT BODY STILL CANNOT MOVE, NOW THERE'S A PROBLEM; THAT BOLT HAS BEEN FORCED IN PLACE AND IT WILL TAKE SOME FORCE TO GET IT OUT AND THE ACTION RAILS MIGHT BE DAMAGED. I HAVE SEEN WARPED RAILS ON BADLY BUTCHERED ROSS ACTIONS.
WHATEVER YOU DO, USE PLENTY OF GREASE AT THE CONTACT POINTS.
OR SEND IT TO ME; I'LL TRY TO GET IT OUT FOR YOU.

BTW, IF YOU NEED A COMPLETE BRIDGE WITH SIGHT, A NEW BOLT OR MAGAZINE, I HAVE THESE AT HAND.

HOPE THIS HELPS.
PP.:)

JUST SAW THE POSTS JUST BEFORE ON THE 2ND PAGE...:redface: HAPPY YOU GOT IT OUT!
MY OFFER STILL STANDS IF YOU NEED SOME PARTS.
 
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BTW, Lou, I cannot see if that bolthead is riveted. Is it?

Anyway, WHEN THE BOLT IS OUT OF THE RIFLE AND ACCIDENTLY RELEASED, THE BOLTHEAD MUST BE PIVOTED AGAINST THE FIRING PIN SPRING PRESSURE UNTIL THE LUGS ARE HORIZONTAL. THE BOLTHEAD WILL BE PROJECTING OUT OF THE BODY ABOUT AN INCH OR SO.

WHEN INSERTING THE BOLT, TAKE CARE NOT TO BUMP IT FROM ITS POSITION OR IT WILL ROTATE WITH SOME FORCE AND BE LIKE ON THE PICTURE. SLIDE IT VERY GENTLY FORWARD UNTIL THE BOLT BODY RAILS ENGAGE PROPERLY.

THEN GET THE BOLT VERY NEAR THE POINT WHERE IT ENGAGES THE LUGS AND PRESS THE TRIGGER: THE BOLTHEAD WILL PIVOT AND SCREW ITSELF INTO THE RECEIVER RECESSES. THIS INDICATES A PROPERLY FUNCTIONING BOLT.
WHEN RETRACTING THE BOLT BODY, IT WILL TAKE SOME FORCE TO ROTATE THE LUGS BACK INTO DISENGAGEMENT. THIS IS OK.
PP.
 
So Lou- The only damage is to the rear end of the magazine? The receiver and bolt and bolt lugs are all okay?

Glad you got it out!

Some very generous offers for parts, should have that baby running soon.

How is the bore on it? So many Rosses are shot out or have dark bores.

They got used a lot back in the day. It can be quite a process to clean the bores on them, with a million layers of caked on grunge, bullet jacket metal etc.

Who knows, maybe being buggered up like this saved it from being used much! I had a Mk II like that...the bolt was assembled wrong, and it was not obvious how to fix it...the thing appeared totally unfired!
 
Lou- Remember the Rule of Thumb- When the bolt is assembled right, as you slide it forward, there should be the width of your thumb between the sleeve and the lugs. Then you carefully observe the bolt rotating into battery as it locks up in the receiver.

Whoever invented riveting the bolts on Rosses was a genius.
 
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