Need some recommendations

srryan

Member
Rating - 100%
5   0   0
Hey everyone, just need a big of advice I'm a little noobish with short guns.

So I recently upgraded to my RPAL and found out it was approved and all that good stuff. I have a deal in place to buy a Sig in .22lr as soon as my card is back so I've got my plinker but I'm looking for ideas for my first center fire.

I really like the feel of the Glock 17 I handled at a local gun show a few weeks back and I've also been eyeballing the SAM and another Sig. But the Glock fits my hands near perfect and I think a g17 gen 4 will be the one I go with.

So my question is what kind of upgrades and parts should I look at for it? I see a lot of stuff about how customizable they are but I don't know enough about them to know what is a good idea or not. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
This may seem like a completely radical and "out there" suggestion, but why don't you try shooting the gun before you "upgrade" or modify it? Glocks should be completely reliable, and run properly right out of the box, so the usual course of events would be to run 500 to 1000 rounds through it, to shake it out, and see if it has any issues.

Then, if you decide something can be added, or changed, to make the gun shoot better, more ergonomically, or more accurately FOR YOU, then look at changing it. Generally, the only changes that most serious users make, is to change out the sights for something more robust, like the Trijicon HDs, and possibly an extended slide stop lever for leftys.

The main thing, is to make sure that the one you get has all the latest parts in it, something that is somewhat lacking up here, depending on who you purchase it from. If you need confirmation that your gun has them, you can PM me with the numbers, and I can check them against the newest list for you.

Of course, I am pretty sure someone will be along in a minute to tell me how wrong I am, after all, I am only a Glock Certified Advanced Armorer with 26 years experience working on them, so what do I know.

Regards.

Mark
 
Not a fan of SIG 22'S there are better choices IMHO such as Ruger and Buckmark other than that I would follow MWL's advice on the Glock it can be a challenge to shot if your fundamentals are not developed.
 
Thanks for the advice guys...

Mark/MWL if something I said offended let me apologize. I should have stated in my post that I intended to shoot the gun as is for a while, I was just curious as to stuff I COULD do to it to make it better. It is the last pistol I will be buying for a while as my next one is going to be the Python I've been Lusting after for years. So my goal is to make it as kickass as possible.
 
Not offended at all, sorry if it came across that way.

I must have misunderstood what you were planning to do. Too many times, I see posts from people who have just purchased, or who are about to purchase a gun, and they already have, or are ordering, a bunch of replacement parts or "upgrades", when they haven't even shot the gun yet. They buy parts based on what looks cool, or what the deltarangerseals use, and ultimately end up with a box of parts that they don't need, or WTS adds on the EE.

I get that people can spend their money however they want, and being in the industry, the more "upgrades" and accessories people buy, they more money we make, but as someone who has handled, shot, repaired, built, upgraded, bought and sold thousands of firearms, I thought that I would save you some money, time, and possibly even some frustration and disappointment, but offering a different view to the usual "I have one of those, and I put part x in it, and I've never had a jam".

The offer of looking up the latest parts for you still stands. I spent most of the last week at Glock, and have the latest manuals and parts lists.

Regards.

Mark
 
This may seem like a completely radical and "out there" suggestion, but why don't you try shooting the gun before you "upgrade" or modify it? Glocks should be completely reliable, and run properly right out of the box, so the usual course of events would be to run 500 to 1000 rounds through it, to shake it out, and see if it has any issues.

Then, if you decide something can be added, or changed, to make the gun shoot better, more ergonomically, or more accurately FOR YOU, then look at changing it. Generally, the only changes that most serious users make, is to change out the sights for something more robust, like the Trijicon HDs, and possibly an extended slide stop lever for leftys.

The main thing, is to make sure that the one you get has all the latest parts in it, something that is somewhat lacking up here, depending on who you purchase it from. If you need confirmation that your gun has them, you can PM me with the numbers, and I can check them against the newest list for you.

Of course, I am pretty sure someone will be along in a minute to tell me how wrong I am, after all, I am only a Glock Certified Advanced Armorer with 26 years experience working on them, so what do I know.

Regards.

Mark

If you are referring to myself I take that ad a compliment. As for your post I agree. As for your credentials, I'm not going to say you're right or wrong. There are many bad professionals with "years of experience". But I doubt that's the case here ;)

Tdc
 
Hey everyone, just need a big of advice I'm a little noobish with short guns.

So I recently upgraded to my RPAL and found out it was approved and all that good stuff. I have a deal in place to buy a Sig in .22lr as soon as my card is back so I've got my plinker but I'm looking for ideas for my first center fire.

I really like the feel of the Glock 17 I handled at a local gun show a few weeks back and I've also been eyeballing the SAM and another Sig. But the Glock fits my hands near perfect and I think a g17 gen 4 will be the one I go with.

So my question is what kind of upgrades and parts should I look at for it? I see a lot of stuff about how customizable they are but I don't know enough about them to know what is a good idea or not. Any advice would be appreciated.

Try the Glock 19, the ergonomics on it and the M&P 9 are way better than any G17. Lots of both around. As for a .22, I'd get the Browning Buckmark Contour URX in 5.5".
 
i would change out the sites, maybe a 3.5lb connector (or the 2 cent polish job), that's about it for me.


here is a video for the now 25 cent trigger job... inflation what a #####!
[youtube]0XJxltxvAo4[/youtube]
 
Glock perfection, or some such motto, BUT don't fire lead through them. You need to buy a conversion bbl if your going to fire lead. You could get the Model 22 Glock and buy a conversion bbl and than it would fire .40 S&W and 9mm. The bbls can be expensive, depending where you buy them. The other thing is, IMHO, the plastic guns kick a lot more than other guns. Once you can shoot a plastic gun well, than you will be able to shoot others better. My recommendation is go steel, be happy.
 
Glock perfection, or some such motto, BUT don't fire lead through them. You need to buy a conversion bbl if your going to fire lead. You could get the Model 22 Glock and buy a conversion bbl and than it would fire .40 S&W and 9mm. The bbls can be expensive, depending where you buy them. The other thing is, IMHO, the plastic guns kick a lot more than other guns. Once you can shoot a plastic gun well, than you will be able to shoot others better. My recommendation is go steel, be happy.

ugh... you can very safely shoot lead through a factory glock barrel, you just need to watch for lead build up if any occurs. 80% of what my glock see's is lead.
 
Can you shoot lead bullets in a Glock barrel? Sure. Should you shoot lead bullets in a Glock barrel? Probably not. There are two main reasons for this.

1. The profile of the polygonal barrel will produce higher pressures and velocities when compared to conventional rifles with lands and grooves. This leads to the barrel leading faster than conventional barrels. This is also occurring in a barrel that has less "space" for lead to be deposited, so the effects (increased pressures, etc.) will be seen sooner than in a conventional barrel. This means that should you choose to use lead bullets, you will have to keep a much closer eye on your barrel than would normally be the case. If you are not firing a lot of high pressure ammunition, and cleaning regularly, this is doable.

2. The use of lead bullets, or any non factory ammunition will automatically void your warranty. If the warranty department receives a gun with any sign of this, you can kiss your hopes of a warranty repair goodbye. Again, if you are good with this, then rock on, but it is something you should be aware of.

Regards.

Mark
 
I'm hoping to have a Glock on the way to me shortly - I have an M&P with about 50,000 rounds through it and I've just started to 'tart' it up - more from boredom than need. As far as I'm concerned, with the Glock (and I've owned a couple over the years) I'll change the sights because the factory ones are a little soft AND my eyesight isn't what it used to be, and I'll polish up some of the trigger parts to smooth things out a little. That's it. Beyond that you need magazines, ammunition, a holster and mag pouches. Then just get out and shoot, they're useless if you don't shoot them.
 
Glock perfection, or some such motto, BUT don't fire lead through them. You need to buy a conversion bbl if your going to fire lead. You could get the Model 22 Glock and buy a conversion bbl and than it would fire .40 S&W and 9mm. The bbls can be expensive, depending where you buy them. The other thing is, IMHO, the plastic guns kick a lot more than other guns. Once you can shoot a plastic gun well, than you will be able to shoot others better. My recommendation is go steel, be happy.

The Glock will expand the brass as well. Makes it harder to reload the brass after it is bubbled at the bottom.

You sir need to stop posting ignorant garbage as fact about something that you clearly have no experience with.

Lead as pointed out can be fired in a Glock if you have an IQ above room temperature and monitor your pistol. The recoil impulse on a Glock is near zero, the low bore axis along with a PROPER GRIP make it all but disappear. The swelling of the brass you mention is a bigger issue with .40cal Glocks than the 9mm series. A full length resizing die for those that reload will ensure your brass is back to spec. Stop trying to use your brass for 10 f*cking years and you won't run into ruptured cases.

TDC
 
You sir need to stop posting ignorant garbage as fact about something that you clearly have no experience with.

Lead as pointed out can be fired in a Glock if you have an IQ above room temperature and monitor your pistol. The recoil impulse on a Glock is near zero, the low bore axis along with a PROPER GRIP make it all but disappear. The swelling of the brass you mention is a bigger issue with .40cal Glocks than the 9mm series. A full length resizing die for those that reload will ensure your brass is back to spec. Stop trying to use your brass for 10 f*cking years and you won't run into ruptured cases. TDC

I have a Glock 22 that I bought for the fun of it, see what all the fuss is about. I shot about 35 lead reloads through the stock bbl and there were signs of lead at that point and it kicked like crazy. I bought the Lone Wolf conversion bbl for 40-9 mm and the Lone Wolf 40 bbl as well and a Glock 9mm magazine, like $500 cost. This was a large investment that I should not have had to make. The brass in 40 S&W does balloon in the Glock. I ordered the full length sizing die from a large dealer, waited months, got it, cost me almost $90 for a 3 die set and it was the same die I already have and it is not full length. Now I have two 3 die sets for 40 S&W. I guess I feel that "Perfection" and Glock do not go together in the same world.

Insults are always a feature here. In the real world not so much. Anyone who dares to mention some of the Glock advantages gets flack from the groupies.
 
I was due to go to the range and it has been a year since the Glock seen the light of day so we just had a little range time. I took 3x .40S&W and 2x9mm guns including the Glock, all semi auto all steel but the Glock. All the steel guns were more accurate (for me) than the Glock but the Glock isn't too bad in 9mm although it does not throw the brass well with the .40S&W spring. All rounds were reloads, some lead some jacketed, all near max recommended charge. No miss-fires or FTE. My 1911 Dlask is a dream to shoot but, get this, a lowly Ruger P94 and P89 out shot the Glock easily, me shooting. The Glock, using the stock .40S&W bbl ballooned the brass noticeably but not when using the Lone Wolf conversion bbls (40-9 and 40S&W bbl). If I had to choose a gun including the Glock as can only have one gun from todays lot the Ruger P89 would get the nood. The 1911 is great but costs 5 times what the Ruger P89 is worth. The Glock kicks way more than a steel gun, much more in .40S&W than in 9mm. I would hate to think what a .45ACP or a 10 mm Glock would be like or a shorter bbl Glock.

Since buddy (TDC.) above says I have no clue what I'm talking about I thought I would do this range report.

Edit: One thing I really hate about the Glock is how hard it is to load rounds into the magazine. I don't know if they get better as the mags get older but it is a bear to load even 6 rounds of 9mm in a new 10 round 9mm mag. Sure there are tools available for this but none of my other guns have this issue or need a tool. I suppose this makes the gun more reliable, sure to load a round but it is a SOB to put the rounds in the mag with your bare hands. Out in the field, without the fancy tool it would be harder to reload the gun.
 
Last edited:
OP, get the Glock you want they are all good I agree about the G19, it feels better in the hand and looks great unless you have gigantic hands. once you get your Glock you'll probably want to change the connector and get a new spring set. trust me you wont regret it. have fun !
 
Back
Top Bottom