Need Tikka build advice/info

[Shawn_338]

If you were to change to rem style recoil lug you would have to inlet every stock to fit it, that's a waste of money and time, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the tikka recoil style. I have owned more than a few of them and they have all shot very well.

 

[K0na_stinky]

and once that bedding is done, how often do you "work with" it ?
its a waste of money... but then again, its your money to waste

I have also had a tikka fitted out with a rem lug out of curiosity, no accuracy gain and then having to custom inlet stocks etc. Once a rifle is bedded, it doesnt matter because you generally dont touch it again.

The problem with bedding a tikka using the factory or aftermarket recoil lug is they don't fit the grove in the action perfectly. So you end up with some Devcon in between your action and your recoil lug.

Now if you could bed it and never take the action out it would work just fine. But that isn't possible, the action has to come out to clean up the bedding and after shooting in the rain or what ever. Each time you reinsert the Devcon coated lug into the slot on the action you strip off some more Devcon. Sooner or later your lug isn't going to fit all that nice and you will need to do a new full length bedding job.

I don't know about you but this sort of stuff bothers me because I know its not as good as it could be.

Another alternative would be welding the recoil lug to the action. But maybe just a waste of money.

 

[K0na_stinky]

If you were to change to rem style recoil lug you would have to inlet every stock to fit it, that's a waste of money and time, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the tikka recoil style. I have owned more than a few of them and they have all shot very well.

Inletting a stock for a rem style recoil lug would take only a few minutes and cost you nothing. Hardly worth talking about.

 

[Shawn_338]

Funny my Barnard action uses the same style of recoil lug and I've never had an issue with it either. And if you use a lumney recoil lug they are fit to much tighter tolerances. Again never had an issue with either

 

[Fenix.NZ]

The problem with bedding a tikka using the factory or aftermarket recoil lug is they don't fit the grove in the action perfectly. So you end up with some Devcon in between your action and your recoil lug.

Now if you could bed it and never take the action out it would work just fine. But that isn't possible, the action has to come out to clean up the bedding and after shooting in the rain or what ever. Each time you reinsert the Devcon coated lug into the slot on the action you strip off some more Devcon. Sooner or later your lug isn't going to fit all that nice and you will need to do a new full length bedding job.

I don't know about you but this sort of stuff bothers me because I know its not as good as it could be.

Another alternative would be welding the recoil lug to the action. But maybe just a waste of money.

who says you have to have the recoil lug removable?
You can just as easily bed it into place and never touch it again

 

[K0na_stinky]

who says you have to have the recoil lug removable?
You can just as easily bed it into place and never touch it again

And then you run into the problem I posted about.

 

[ntm]

And then you run into the problem I posted about.

Incorrect, it functions exactly as a properly bedded Remington lug, it allows a little shifting forward and sideways.
It actually allows for a more precise and repeatable action to stock recoil path If you consider that the bearing surfaces that interface are metal to metal, as opposed to metal to wood, or metal to epoxy as with the rem style.
The trick is to epoxy the lug into the stock permanently, and use a trimmed piece of feeler gauge between the action and lug to force the lug forward into the "recoil" position. Bed it, and pull the piece of feeler gauge out and you have a perfect interface.

 

[K0na_stinky]

Incorrect, it functions exactly as a properly bedded Remington lug, it allows a little shifting forward and sideways.
It actually allows for a more precise and repeatable action to stock recoil path If you consider that the bearing surfaces that interface are metal to metal, as opposed to metal to wood, or metal to epoxy as with the rem style.
The trick is to epoxy the lug into the stock permanently, and use a trimmed piece of feeler gauge between the action and lug to force the lug forward into the "recoil" position. Bed it, and pull the piece of feeler gauge out and you have a perfect interface.

Hmm thats a pretty good idea. I will have to remember that and try it next time. Thanks for that.

I'm still going with a rem style lug though. lol

 

[ZUKA]

I actually got it direct from Boyds when it was $99

It's still $99 but total with shipping to Canada and customs will be around $180.
they make a nice stocks .

 

[Crashman]

Than add the adjustable cheek piece for another $60 USD. But this is the way I went for two of my rifles. You get a lot stock for the money.

 

[marzo2]

Did exactly that with my Tikka Sporter! Nice bedding job and terminated the few flyers I had with it

Incorrect, it functions exactly as a properly bedded Remington lug, it allows a little shifting forward and sideways.
It actually allows for a more precise and repeatable action to stock recoil path If you consider that the bearing surfaces that interface are metal to metal, as opposed to metal to wood, or metal to epoxy as with the rem style.
The trick is to epoxy the lug into the stock permanently, and use a trimmed piece of feeler gauge between the action and lug to force the lug forward into the "recoil" position. Bed it, and pull the piece of feeler gauge out and you have a perfect interface.