Need upped ar15 vice block in red deer Area.
- Thread starter jamiebob
- Start date
I've rebarrelled several AR15/AR10 platforms and rather than spend the $$ on a vice block, I've always just used wood. A set of plywood ends on either jaw vice works perfectly when the receiver is placed with the top rail against the jaw. The receiver is structurally stronger in this postiion so it's uptake of the ensued load is much better distributed anyway. I've never understood why those vice blocks all place the receiver upright, looks like a great way to crack it if you accidentally over tighten your vice!
When using wood/plywood, tighten to the point you just hear the wood begin to ping and you'll be set to put your barrel on. PM me if you want some pics sent of what I'm referring to.
My .02, hope that helps...getting those receiver blocks can be a b***h since not many companies stock them.
When using wood/plywood, tighten to the point you just hear the wood begin to ping and you'll be set to put your barrel on. PM me if you want some pics sent of what I'm referring to.
My .02, hope that helps...getting those receiver blocks can be a b***h since not many companies stock them.
Thanks for your help that worked like a hot dam.
- Location
- Western Canada
Im in the Red Deer area and Im ordering one from a company out of the states for myself, i can get one for you if your still interested
Save your money!!!
Lol, I didn't expect to get so many PMs about this topic so I thought I'd snap a few pics of an upper that I recently built to illustrate.
Start with your easily available Crappy Tire vice (got mine on sale for like 20 bucks way back when...) and some scrap wood from the shop (I use 1/2 plywood but your mileage may vary) cut to size to fit the vice.
Add one Aero Precision Upper purchased from Canadian Cowboy Tactical, an S&J barrel from SFRC and some misc. Magpul goodness...
Another view
Make it tight enough that you feel comfortable (I usually will tighten it down until it mildly impacts the wood (also known as "bite") and voila! I've rebarrelled probably a dozen uppers using this technique and have had not one single issue. It holds the upper extremely well, even into the torque range of 45-90 ft lbs needed for seating the AR10 barrel nut properly. Personally, it's my opinion that this is actually safer for the upper since the load is distributed on two flat surfaces rather than the curved side walls which are much thinner and prone to deformation should the plastic mould suffer even minor failure. The wood is more forgiving and cost effective too!
Edit: This will also work for the A2 upper by adding in a full length wedge on one side, simply use a piece of folded 50 or 80 grit sandpaper BETWEEN THE BLOCKS to prevent slippage and it will work like a charm!
Lol, I didn't expect to get so many PMs about this topic so I thought I'd snap a few pics of an upper that I recently built to illustrate.
Start with your easily available Crappy Tire vice (got mine on sale for like 20 bucks way back when...) and some scrap wood from the shop (I use 1/2 plywood but your mileage may vary) cut to size to fit the vice.
Add one Aero Precision Upper purchased from Canadian Cowboy Tactical, an S&J barrel from SFRC and some misc. Magpul goodness...
Another view
Make it tight enough that you feel comfortable (I usually will tighten it down until it mildly impacts the wood (also known as "bite") and voila! I've rebarrelled probably a dozen uppers using this technique and have had not one single issue. It holds the upper extremely well, even into the torque range of 45-90 ft lbs needed for seating the AR10 barrel nut properly. Personally, it's my opinion that this is actually safer for the upper since the load is distributed on two flat surfaces rather than the curved side walls which are much thinner and prone to deformation should the plastic mould suffer even minor failure. The wood is more forgiving and cost effective too!
Edit: This will also work for the A2 upper by adding in a full length wedge on one side, simply use a piece of folded 50 or 80 grit sandpaper BETWEEN THE BLOCKS to prevent slippage and it will work like a charm!
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