need value info 303

matt bradley

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Hey guy's I'm looking to sell these guns and just woundering what there worth? the carbine works great and seems very solid the bore looks great the metal has been painted or something and the other one has fore stock ,butt stock,barrel ,reciever,sights(barrel seems new but I'm no expert)the one in pieces is a #4 mk1 long branch and the jungle carbine is a #5mk1 if that makes sence, thanks for the help.
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they both seem to be good candidate for restauration,no irreversible damages on the barrels,if the bolts are number matches to the receiver,hollow bolt knob for the no 5,i would say...from 125$ to 175$ each.though i'm not an expert.
 
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I'd sell the butt and forarm together; say, $50. But, take a look at the back of the forarm, where the trigger and sear go; make sure there's the wood that's supposed to be there, right in the middle, and through which the brass pin goes - from the picture, I can't tell if someone removed that wood to try to fit the forarm on a No4 Mk2.

The No4 barreled action looks like it has been sandlasted? Maybe $75?

The Jungle has been sporterized, but otherwise looks sound. Max $200 probably. All these being my humble opinion...

Lou
 
#5 maybe $$$prohib

The #5 has had the barrel ring removed. This means that it is not an easy job to restore it. The flash hider has to be removed to install this. 2 pins out (which side? are they tapered?) The assy heated and removed, ring installed ,all back together. Now how is the hider installed, is it silver solder or is it pressed on, either way an arbour press is needed. Take care not to F**k the crown of the barrel. Hopefully Lou can shed some light on this cause I would like to know.
 
The #5 has had the barrel ring removed. This means that it is not an easy job to restore it. The flash hider has to be removed to install this. 2 pins out (which side? are they tapered?) The assy heated and removed, ring installed ,all back together. Now how is the hider installed, is it silver solder or is it pressed on, either way an arbour press is needed. Take care not to F**k the crown of the barrel. Hopefully Lou can shed some light on this cause I would like to know.

Removing that fh is so difficult that it would probably be better to leave the rifle the way it is...IMHO.
 
thats a very good idea lou.......lol. id never atempt to remove a Flash hider again, if i didnt have to after todays fun

Did you do the U Joint pin in the hydraulic press thing Beater? Did you get the hider off?
Once the pins are out it drives off without too much trouble with a lead drift.
 
thats a very good idea lou.......lol. id never atempt to remove a Flash hider again, if i didnt have to after todays fun

:) I'd love to take credit for that trick, but very little from what I know I came up with on my own. That trick was handed down to me by someone else - dang, I can't remember by whom!
 
i finally got it off. took heat, then cold, then heat, then cold. those are terrible lil things.
then a milling machine again. much to much fun

your welcome Lou
 
I should really take notes since my memory is so rotten. Thanks Beater.

Hey, did we get sidetracked? Matt, did we help you with your question?
 
I am not sure but the barrel on the No.4 Looks cut down and the end was re-attached. Anyone else notice how long the fore stock is compared to it?


No, the back end of the action was cut off and re-attached further back. :p

I think it's the camera angle producing an illusion. When people shorten those barrels they usually take off at least the portion with the bayonet lugs and often the sight mounting lugs as well.

It's good that the No.4 forestock is complete, that is the wooden part most often modified and so it usually the hardest to replace.
 
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