Neon Pink and Neon Green
- Thread starter yodave
- Start date
Tried it does not coat as well as other options
Not quite what you were asking but I just happen to cast and powdercoat a batch of 325gr bullets for my .444 Marlin today. Eastwood Lime Green, not sure if it’s bright enough for you?
Are you standing your .444 bullets on edge or laying them down?
Reason I ask is that I did some Lyman 450 gr 515141s today, laying them down on silicone 'hot pads'. Several stuck to the silicone, leaving some of it on the bullets. Next batch I stood on end (PITA) and they came out much better, no adherence. I was using a powder from Princess Auto.
I have some Eastwood powders coming in the mail and I'm hoping that they will coat bullets well laying down. I want to do some Lyman 457125s, a long bullet, and I don't want to stand them up for the above reason. If they don't work better than the PA powders, I will only use powder coating on pistol bullets.
hatman1793
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
My experience with the Chi-com Princess Auto colours is mixed.
Alone, they give poor coverage, & I would never use them as sole source.
However, if you employ the chi-com powder as a suppliment to the Emerald Coatings *Tool Blue* & *Clear* powders, they are okay.
Im suggesting an 80/20 mixture.
Alone, they give poor coverage, & I would never use them as sole source.
However, if you employ the chi-com powder as a suppliment to the Emerald Coatings *Tool Blue* & *Clear* powders, they are okay.
Im suggesting an 80/20 mixture.
I just coated a batch of 45-70 Lyman 457125s, standing them on end using parchment paper. Powder was PA Blue.
Worked OK, but thin coverage. Some minor flashing at the bases of a few. Driving bands sufficiently covered.
I tried recoating a batch of 158 SWCs with the same powder and then you get over coating.
Can't wait for my Eastwood powders to arrive. If they don't work better, I'm back to greasers.
Worked OK, but thin coverage. Some minor flashing at the bases of a few. Driving bands sufficiently covered.
I tried recoating a batch of 158 SWCs with the same powder and then you get over coating.
Can't wait for my Eastwood powders to arrive. If they don't work better, I'm back to greasers.
I have only used eastwood, awesome coverage and great stick to the lead, I either powder coat the same day I cast or the day after. My 457125s look awesome in both blue and red, but something neon might be cooler for 1200 fps loads
I bought the same so I get even coverage for my high velocity bullets
What is the drill for spraying? I take it that you spray outdoors while wearing a mask, right?
Is the excess powder recoverable? Do you spray on the tray you'll bake on or on a separate tray?
fingers284
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta Cowboy Ranges
I use one of those Tupperware type tote bins from CT as my "spray booth" just layed on a table in the shop, its a space big enough to lay a full cookie sheet of bullets inside and small enough to contain over-spray in a confines space. Yes, overspray is recoverable but I've found that there is so little as to be a negligible amount to worry about.
I never cook on the same tray I spray on...bullet base flashing will be continous from one bullet to another from powder that settles between them on the sheet, I tweezer from one sheet to another that has a non-stick covering of some sort on it.
I have metal cooking sheets with holes drilled 1/2 inch apart (from Dollar Store) that I "customize" with tapered punches to accept different bullet noses snugly. I can place the bullets nose-down in these holes and gun coat the bases & driving bands of the slugs so the nose remains coating-free, this facilitates chambering slugs that fit the bores real close and wont allow any coating on the nose.
One thing you will discover doing this is that the underside where the bullet noses protrude will have to be encased in a wooden frame of some kind that keeps the over-spray from just blowing under the cookie sheet and electicaly sticking to the bullet nose ,same as the bases...if powder can access the underside it will stick, defeating the purpose of the nose down trays.
As for the spray mask, I do use one of those inexpensive carpenter dust mask but really, I don't know if it is "essential" to our type of spray gun usage...3-5 lbs spray pressure and 30 seconds of spray time required per batch doesn't put much powder airborne out of the small booth. I spray at "arms length" away from the tub opening & I never notice a cloud of powder close to my face nor have I ever seen any powder residue on the mask after use, any powder bright color would be evident on the pure white mask material.
I never cook on the same tray I spray on...bullet base flashing will be continous from one bullet to another from powder that settles between them on the sheet, I tweezer from one sheet to another that has a non-stick covering of some sort on it.
I have metal cooking sheets with holes drilled 1/2 inch apart (from Dollar Store) that I "customize" with tapered punches to accept different bullet noses snugly. I can place the bullets nose-down in these holes and gun coat the bases & driving bands of the slugs so the nose remains coating-free, this facilitates chambering slugs that fit the bores real close and wont allow any coating on the nose.
One thing you will discover doing this is that the underside where the bullet noses protrude will have to be encased in a wooden frame of some kind that keeps the over-spray from just blowing under the cookie sheet and electicaly sticking to the bullet nose ,same as the bases...if powder can access the underside it will stick, defeating the purpose of the nose down trays.
As for the spray mask, I do use one of those inexpensive carpenter dust mask but really, I don't know if it is "essential" to our type of spray gun usage...3-5 lbs spray pressure and 30 seconds of spray time required per batch doesn't put much powder airborne out of the small booth. I spray at "arms length" away from the tub opening & I never notice a cloud of powder close to my face nor have I ever seen any powder residue on the mask after use, any powder bright color would be evident on the pure white mask material.
I wear a tyvek suit and full 3m face shield respirator. I spray out side if possible but also have a home made spray booth.
I don’t worry about recovering overspray. Also have a dedicated toaster oven to bake them.
