New .45 acp mold ordered from MP-Molds

I like it. Looks like it could cast a nice bullet. I would consider buying one or two moulds if my casting pals would go halve-sees!
There is still some controversy about the utility of cast lead hollow points. End users want a hard cast bullet and while it appears that HP's are eminently desirable, they are mostly pointless for indoor target use. Would these cast HP's expand enough to justify the cost of the mould? If you bought the 38 hollow base wadd cutter, would you get expansion in the bore if the bullets are hard cast? With low velocity 38 wadd cutters is there enough pressure to make create expansion?
I don't know but the moulds appear to be very well made....
 
hatman1793 said:
I like it. Looks like it could cast a nice bullet. I would consider buying one or two moulds if my casting pals would go halve-sees!
There is still some controversy about the utility of cast lead hollow points. End users want a hard cast bullet and while it appears that HP's are eminently desirable, they are mostly pointless for indoor target use. Would these cast HP's expand enough to justify the cost of the mould? If you bought the 38 hollow base wadd cutter, would you get expansion in the bore if the bullets are hard cast? With low velocity 38 wadd cutters is there enough pressure to make create expansion?
I don't know but the moulds appear to be very well made....
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about hard cast lead bullets but Berry's Bullets states that to get their hollow base copper plated (not jacketed) 38 wadcutters to expand you have to shoot them at at least 800 FPS, which is quite a bit faster than most standard 38 wadcutter target loads.
 
I have a couple of MP 's moulds. Not only do they look great but cast even nicer. Once you have used a properly specd. and produced mould you will never go back to mass produced ones. PS NOE moulds are definately on par with Mihek's as well!
 
I just got a mold from him for my 500 and they are amazing!
They work best hot though not like lee molds which are great too.

IMG_20130114_164209_zpseb83fb54.jpg
 
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I have a bunch of MP HP moulds. Very good stuff.
here's some hints for using it:

- clean it well before using - scrub with varsol (or diesel, kerosene, etc) and a nylon tooth brush, then with soapy water, and then pour boiling water on it to get rid of all traces of cutting oil, grease, and soap. Clean the tiny grooves on the internal face of the mould, they act as vents and if they aren't clean your mould will not fill properly.

- lube the retaining pins lightly (not the HP pins!) with sprue plate lube about every 200 bullets - i use a q-tip and do it on the fly. Also lube the sprue plate, top of the mould, sprue plate pivot, and the centreing pins.

- do not lube or smoke the cavities or the HP pins at all.

- these moulds needs to run fairly hot to work. I run the pot at about 690F-700F, and the mould works best at about 400-450F. You'll know the mould is about the right temperature when it takes about 4-5 seconds for the sprue to harden - then wait 6-10 more seconds before you cut the sprue and open the mould.

-preheat the mould with a hot plate or let it sit on the top of your hot lead pot for a while prior to starting. expect that you will toss the first 20-40 bullets back in the pot until you get everything warmed up and running. If your bullets are sticking to the pins then the mould is probably still too cold.

-When your mould starts getting warm enough the lube will start to smoke and burn off. Pour fast and don't waste time inspecting your bullets - delays only allows the mould to cool off more. You adjust mould temperature by the speed of your casting - casting fast heats up the mould, casting slower allows the mould to cool off. When the mould does get up to temperature slow down a enough to maintain the temperature.

Once you have verything warmed up and running right, you can do a pour about avery 20-25 seconds but this is dependant on mould temperature. If the lead starts to smear on the sprue cutter then you need to let the mould cool down longer before cutting the sprue.

Hope that helps.
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riderrick said:
where you getting lead?? i started casting for my s&w500. bought a 700g mold then bought 500 440g cast boolits for cheap. but want molds just in case for all the calibers i shoot.
Click to expand...

Isn't that like asking for a guys honey hole? I work in telecom and we are still removing lead splices so I have all the crews on the lookout, as well I know a few tire guys
 
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jethunter said:
I have a bunch of MP HP moulds. Very good stuff.
here's some hints for using it:

- clean it well before using - scrub with varsol (or diesel, kerosene, etc) and a nylon tooth brush, then with soapy water, and then pour boiling water on it to get rid of all traces of cutting oil, grease, and soap. Clean the tiny grooves on the internal face of the mould, they act as vents and if they aren't clean your mould will not fill properly.

- lube the retaining pins lightly (not the HP pins!) with sprue plate lube about every 200 bullets - i use a q-tip and do it on the fly. Also lube the sprue plate, top of the mould, sprue plate pivot, and the centreing pins.

- do not lube or smoke the cavities or the HP pins at all.

- these moulds needs to run fairly hot to work. I run the pot at about 690F-700F, and the mould works best at about 400-450F. You'll know the mould is about the right temperature when it takes about 4-5 seconds for the sprue to harden - then wait 6-10 more seconds before you cut the sprue and open the mould.

-preheat the mould with a hot plate or let it sit on the top of your hot lead pot for a while prior to starting. expect that you will toss the first 20-40 bullets back in the pot until you get everything warmed up and running. If your bullets are sticking to the pins then the mould is probably still too cold.

-When your mould starts getting warm enough the lube will start to smoke and burn off. Pour fast and don't waste time inspecting your bullets - delays only allows the mould to cool off more. You adjust mould temperature by the speed of your casting - casting fast heats up the mould, casting slower allows the mould to cool off. When the mould does get up to temperature slow down a enough to maintain the temperature.

Once you have verything warmed up and running right, you can do a pour about avery 20-25 seconds but this is dependant on mould temperature. If the lead starts to smear on the sprue cutter then you need to let the mould cool down longer before cutting the sprue.

Hope that helps.
-
Click to expand...



Wow! Great advice, thanks for taking the time to chime in and write that up


Mike
 
riderrick said:
where you getting lead?? i started casting for my s&w500. bought a 700g mold then bought 500 440g cast boolits for cheap. but want molds just in case for all the calibers i shoot.
Click to expand...

I recently stumbled upon a scrapper with pure lead @ $.75/lb. he's local to me, a bit more than I want to spend, but it's really nice stuff to work with! He has 4 or 5 tons of it!
 
You will love these moulds!!! I hope your wallet can handle what's coming next because you won't stop at one. I'm up to a half dozen, so far and my name is on two more group buys running right now.

Miha turns out works of art. I can't even look at Lee or Lyman anymore.....
 
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