New Barrel Caliber Stamping ?

slug said:
Laserpecker 2, the one I use most, is $700 USD.
LP3 does most metals and plastic.
LP4 combines 2 and 3 in one machine $1600 USD.
Mine cost a bit more, but fast shipping was included ( and taxes).
I'm thinking about selling my 3 and getting a 4.
Click to expand...

I have never heard of the Laserpecker before, but seeing it it seems really handy. Especially if you are engraving long items (like rifles) that won't fit in a normal laser engraving machine
 
Have one rifle here that was rebarreled by somebody someplace and they never bothered stamping the chambering on it. I have to assume it's 223 as a 222 fits and a 223 not anything else it could be for PALMA .
 
guntech said:
I believe the biggest problem with using a Pantograph engraver is holding the odd contours of a barrel securely enough.
Click to expand...

Gonna depend if they are only set up for basic scratch engraving (like a typical Trophy Name Plate) or if they have a machine capable of running a cutter in the spindle. Many have the ability to clamp and hold really odd shapes, reasonably well, either in vises, or between centers.

Even a basic Panto Engraver is capable of dealing with changes in contour, else you cannot put the winners name on the side of a cup, for instance. I'd figure that the real issue in this day and age, is getting the person to actually deal with a gun part...
 
trevj said:
Gonna depend if they are only set up for basic scratch engraving (like a typical Trophy Name Plate) or if they have a machine capable of running a cutter in the spindle. Many have the ability to clamp and hold really odd shapes, reasonably well, either in vises, or between centers.

Even a basic Panto Engraver is capable of dealing with changes in contour, else you cannot put the winners name on the side of a cup, for instance. I'd figure that the real issue in this day and age, is getting the person to actually deal with a gun part...
Click to expand...

Most trophy engravers don't have an issue with engraving a barrel or even barreled action. They don't appreciate them being brought into the shop without being covered, in front of other customers. The odd one will insist that you stay beside them while doing the job, as they don't want firearms or identifiable parts laying around the shop.

Many of them do their work right beside the customer counter, so it's understandable.

One big mistake people make with punches, is the punches are too BIG, or of poor quality.

1.5-2mm is just about perfect.

I use a lead bar to rest the barrel against while striking the punch.
 
bearhunter said:
Most trophy engravers don't have an issue with engraving a barrel or even barreled action. They don't appreciate them being brought into the shop without being covered, in front of other customers. The odd one will insist that you stay beside them while doing the job, as they don't want firearms or identifiable parts laying around the shop.

Many of them do their work right beside the customer counter, so it's understandable.

One big mistake people make with punches, is the punches are too BIG, or of poor quality.

1.5-2mm is just about perfect.

I use a lead bar to rest the barrel against while striking the punch.
Click to expand...

Another is expecting the letters to all be in the same position in relation to the sides of the punch.

Using a guide that the 'letter' rests upon, is more like to get you a decent result.

And, Practice!
 
In some sets the letters / numbers are "all over the place" in relation to the sides of the punch (not centered), making them almost un-useable in any kind of a guide or jig.
Recently, I purchased a set of 2mm stamps from Lee Valley -- they are nicely made and they are centered and work well in a jig.
 
trevj said:
Another is expecting the letters to all be in the same position in relation to the sides of the punch.

Using a guide that the 'letter' rests upon, is more like to get you a decent result.

And, Practice!
Click to expand...

You're right I also tape the numbers together for the first set, then do the same with letters following.
 
cuslog said:
In some sets the letters / numbers are "all over the place" in relation to the sides of the punch (not centered), making them almost un-useable in any kind of a guide or jig.
Recently, I purchased a set of 2mm stamps from Lee Valley -- they are nicely made and they are centered and work well in a jig.
Click to expand...

That's nice to know. My present set is worn and I won't use it anymore, so I just put in an order from Lee Valley.

My present set came from a Czech supplier twenty years ago and it cost over a hundred dollars then. I can only hazard a guess of what they would cost now.

They are still ok for other things, but not barrel steel.
 
skwerl said:
If it is not done by the manufacturer / factory it hasn't any credence with me.
I've seen too many (?) HD numbers
Click to expand...

We're not discussing factory rifles skwerl. We're discussing punching cartridge chambering info on aftermarket barrels.

I don't think anyone here would over-stamp factory information unless they have recut the chamber.
 
bearhunter said:
We're not discussing factory rifles skwerl. We're discussing punching cartridge chambering info on aftermarket barrels.

I don't think anyone here would over-stamp factory information unless they have recut the chamber.
Click to expand...

Yep , you're rite , no one would try to change factory role stamps.
I'm just not the trusting sort.
...skwerl
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom