New batch of Molot mosin snipers?
- Thread starter themouser
- Start date
Yes, I went back and forth between the Tula and the laminate. I went with the Tula as it had a mint bore and crown.
These seem originally destined to be imported into the US and have been diverted to Canada. Notice that these rifles have the serial number re-stamped on the receiver; a requirement in the US but not in Canada. The "Made in Russia" laser etch can be made to almost disappear with an application of cold bluing. Country of manufacture identification is not, to my knowledge, are requirement in Canada. None of the ordinary Mosins have this identification. The cartridge etch on the rear sight base is probably best left alone although again I don't think it is legally required.
The stamps and laser etchings were added by Tulsky to satisfy the Russian government's export / hunting rifle requirements.
The majority of these were imported into the US but the ones we have are missing the US import markings. They were either exported to Canada quickly after hitting US ports or they were intended for Canada.
The duplicate serial number stamped on the receiver is a specific US requirement. Other Mosins recently imported do not have this repeated serial number which suggests to me it is an importation requirement, not a Russian export requirement. The laser etched COO and cartridge are, as you say, likely export requirements since these have been appearing on batches of Mosins both sniper and non-sniper. Import markings are absent since these are done by the US importer, not by the exporting country.
Range Report:
I shot this 100 yard group after sighting it in using this U-tube vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH9E3bAtKvU Ya, I flinched on the flyer....
I was shooting 147 grain Bulgarian silver tip factory 10/1971. I think this scope and rifle have spent some time together in the past. When I lined up the mount using the method in the video, everything lined up great. I set the turrets to "0" for windage and "1" for elevation, then started shooting. The cross hair is in the upper third of the glass. The rifle took about 10 rounds to settle in and foul the barrel. The bolt was not finicky and no slapping was required.
FYI the tang on the receiver is stamped 42 with the Tula star. I think this one is a keeper
I shot this 100 yard group after sighting it in using this U-tube vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH9E3bAtKvU Ya, I flinched on the flyer....
I was shooting 147 grain Bulgarian silver tip factory 10/1971. I think this scope and rifle have spent some time together in the past. When I lined up the mount using the method in the video, everything lined up great. I set the turrets to "0" for windage and "1" for elevation, then started shooting. The cross hair is in the upper third of the glass. The rifle took about 10 rounds to settle in and foul the barrel. The bolt was not finicky and no slapping was required.
FYI the tang on the receiver is stamped 42 with the Tula star. I think this one is a keeper
Range Report:
I shot this 100 yard group after sighting it in using this U-tube vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH9E3bAtKvU Ya, I flinched on the flyer....
I was shooting 147 grain Bulgarian silver tip factory 10/1971. I think this scope and rifle have spent some time together in the past. When I lined up the mount using the method in the video, everything lined up great. I set the turrets to "0" for windage and "1" for elevation, then started shooting. The cross hair is in the upper third of the glass. The rifle took about 10 rounds to settle in and foul the barrel. The bolt was not finicky and no slapping was required.
FYI the tang on the receiver is stamped 42 with the Tula star. I think this one is a keeper
Besides, your stock is correct period Tula stock
Discovered today that the PU scope does not like water. A little shower at the range rendered the scope useless. I guess a drop got inside and distorted the reticle. Was shooting nice groups till then. Had to finish up the session with the Polish M44 (round count now at 21).
Generally the lens are well sealed, however, if you removed turret assemblies to clean the yellow grease that is caked on these scopes, then you need to re-seal these areas. Optical grease (silicone based) is what should be used; petroleum based greases should not be used.
How much work you do on these scopes depends on your skill level and availability of suitable tools. If you don't want to get deep into this area, don't disassemble the turrets to remove all the grease. Just loosen the top screws to allow you to zero the scope properly. Wipe the excess grease from the outside and leave well enough alone.
If you have the time and tools you can disassemble the scope into its constituent parts, clean it and re-assemble. If it ain't broke don't fix it is the general rule since there are some opportunities to significantly de-value your investment.
How much work you do on these scopes depends on your skill level and availability of suitable tools. If you don't want to get deep into this area, don't disassemble the turrets to remove all the grease. Just loosen the top screws to allow you to zero the scope properly. Wipe the excess grease from the outside and leave well enough alone.
If you have the time and tools you can disassemble the scope into its constituent parts, clean it and re-assemble. If it ain't broke don't fix it is the general rule since there are some opportunities to significantly de-value your investment.
