New big game hunter, shot placement and bullet choice.

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. I’m not expecting a bang/flop as they say but, I want to be ethical and put the animal down as fast as possible.
It's very ethical to shoot deer in the heart/lungs area. The deer is already dead on it's feet, whether it's this very moment, or an eternity later, which is realistically about 10-12 seconds in hunting time, while it runs 50-125 meters before it loses blood pressure and drops. I think there's a certain subset of "special" individuals that figure if it's not a bang/flop, it wasn't as effective. Dead is dead.
 
I've had great results with Federal's 175gr Terminal Ascent for deer and bear. Weight retention is around 90% which helps reduce lead contamination.
 
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I know I get crap every time I say it. But a head shot under a 100yds is a hell of a lot less risky and easier to manage the variables than the 500+yd body shots you see occasionally discussed here and displayed on YouTube. How many of those go off and die not to be retrieved.
 
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Yes OP it is definitely worth it to use the best premium bullets for hunting that you can afford that will shoot well out of your rifle. You want the best bullet not for when the hunting situation is ideal (broadside target, excellent shooting rest, good lighting etc etc) but for when it is less than ideal (quartering away shot, less than optimum placement etc etc)

Stack the odds of a successful one shot kill in your favor as much as you can. Ammo is the cheap part of the hunt compared to all the other costs so why not use the best and most reliable available. For most applications a premium bonded bullet will work reliably most of the time, although for the distances you're talking about a good monolith bullet will work too. It goes without saying that precise shot placement is very important as well or as precise as you can make it.
 
Hey all, why are your thoughts about this?

I’ve been reloading cup/core bullets in 308 in preparation for my first white tail hunt this year (mostly hunted birds up to this point). I’m hunting in Ontario and likely spending time at a mutual friends hunt camp, hunting out of a tree stand. Shots are likely to be close( maybe 50 yards) .

My understanding of cup/core bullets is, they plain ole work but depending on the angle, if hitting a shoulder or other bone, they can break apart and produce a terrible but less than immediately fatal wound. I’m not expecting a bang/flop as they say but, I want to be ethical and put the animal down as fast as possible.

One of my buddies will be hunting with a 6.5 creed and equally as new to big game hunting.

Question is , given that we’re likely to hunt close, and possibly shooting at less than ideal angles for a nice clean broadside shot, is it worthwhile to use a bonded bullet over a cheap cup/core ?
Any hunting bullet between 150gr and 180gr will drop that deer no problem.

Your technique will be what makes you successful, not your gear.

Choose the right spot for your feeder blinds/stands, don’t call too much or too loud, be meticulous about scent control (matters more if you’re hunting antlerless), be patient and wait for the shot. All that stuff is important. The bullet you choose really isn’t.

Good luck and have fun.
 
Question is , given that we’re likely to hunt close, and possibly shooting at less than ideal angles for a nice clean broadside shot, is it worthwhile to use a bonded bullet over a cheap cup/core ?
A cup & core will do fine, .308's aren't fast enough to warrant a premium bullet.

If the animal is quartering away, aim at the far shoulder, if quartering to, aim for the near shoulder, keeping in mind you're not aiming for any specific point on the outside of the animal, you're trying to thread a bullet through the center of the chest cavity. Far shoulder, near shoulder, behind the shoulder, are all just reference points.

I agree with the advice to avoid getting fancy with your shot placement, i.e., head or neck. I've seen a new hunter miss an entire deer from 40 yds from a tree stand, and it wasn't the rifle's fault.

If you haven't picked out your ammo yet, keep an eye on the sales. You might find Norma Whitetail or even Norma Oryx for $40/box.
 
Interlock I believe.
Had good success with the 139 on deer too.
Chest shot about 250 yards
View attachment 1094567
I may have killed a critter or two with partitions but that VAST majority of game I have taken has been with Hornady interlocks. While I have not the experience of many here, I can say that I have only failed to get a one shot kill 4 times that I can recall. Shot a bear with my flint, heard a solid hit but never found the bear, a shot on a mule deer with the flint, clean miss, another bear that I shot three times with my flint to put him in park and a whitetail that took three shots with my flint.338, 225 Hornady. First shot was in the engine room and WAS a kill shot, forgot to tell the deer that and it ran off. Tracked for maybe 56/60 yards, found it and took a shot and grazed it, it ran another maybe 80-100 yards and I shot it behind the ear. Every other animal ive shot hsve been one shot kills with Hornady interlocks.
 
Where you hit them is more important than what you hit them with .
Here's just a few of the over 35 animals that have been killed with my Ruger single shot in .303 British with an assortment of bullets and weights.
All one shot kills.
All of these animals were hit in the vicinity of the lungs and pretty much broadside except for one.
Cat
This one was at 80 yards with a 180 Speer cup and core, quartering away. Dropped where it stood
This one was at 60 yards with a 180 grain C.I.L. cup and core, broadside but trotting- dropped where it stood
This one was a bit further at 192 yards with a 150 grain Barnes TSX mono metal, fell where it stood then rolled downhill for a bit.
This one was at 190 , it was hit with a 180 grain factory Igmann cup and core a bit high and back from where I wanted but still in the lungs- it went right around 40 yards.
This one was shot at 372 yards with a 150 grain TSX mono metal, it went abut 20 yards.
 
As others have suggested, at 308 velocities, cup and core will do just fine. Your gun will preferentially tune to a given bullet weight (150, 165, or 180 grains) for accuracy, but at 50 yards this is irrelevant. Your 165 gr Sierras are a good choice.
More important is your ability to shoot quickly and effectively at 50 yards - can you hit a 8 inch pie plate shooting freehand? Shooting deer at this distance gets much more manageable if you have a low power scope (eg 1.5 to 3x). Most novice hunters show up at our Ontario hunt camp with way too much scope, thanks to the sales staff at Cabelas.:rolleyes:
 
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Hey all, why are your thoughts about this?

I’ve been reloading cup/core bullets in 308 in preparation for my first white tail hunt this year (mostly hunted birds up to this point). I’m hunting in Ontario and likely spending time at a mutual friends hunt camp, hunting out of a tree stand. Shots are likely to be close( maybe 50 yards) .

My understanding of cup/core bullets is, they plain ole work but depending on the angle, if hitting a shoulder or other bone, they can break apart and produce a terrible but less than immediately fatal wound. I’m not expecting a bang/flop as they say but, I want to be ethical and put the animal down as fast as possible.

One of my buddies will be hunting with a 6.5 creed and equally as new to big game hunting.

Question is , given that we’re likely to hunt close, and possibly shooting at less than ideal angles for a nice clean broadside shot, is it worthwhile to use a bonded bullet over a cheap cup/core ?
There are many resources to assist in your quest.

There are also many shooting positions that will affect your decision on whether or not to take the shot.

Hunting magazines now have web sites that offer lots of information on shot placement (animal anatomy) and those killing shots/angles will change with every situation.

I would strongly suggest you refrain from the Texas Heart Shot as a newbie to the sport of big game hunting.

308 is a capable calibre of choice and a Federal Blue Box 150 grn in a cup and core bullet will do you fine.

Tight Groups,
Rob
 
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As others have suggested, at 308 velocities, cup and core will do just fine. Your gun will preferentially tune to a given bullet weight (150, 165, or 180 grains) for accuracy, but at 50 yards this is irrelevant. Your 165 gr Sierras are a good choice.
More important is your ability to shoot quickly and effectively at 50 yards - can you hit a 8 inch pie plate shooting freehand? Shooting deer at this distance gets much more manageable if you have a low power scope (eg 1.5 to 3x). Most novice hunters show up at our Ontario hunt camp with way too much scope, thanks to the sales staff at Cabelas.:rolleyes:
Vortex Viper 1-6 LPVO . No overscoping for me.

To be honest, I never tried shooting offhand with my rifle yet. I guess I should start!
 
Conversely, there is no reason not to shoot using a rest if one is available.
When it comes to practicing to improve one’s hunting ability, I disagree. Off hand skills transfers to shooting from a rest, skills gained by shooting from a rest do not necessarily transfer to off hand shooting. An example of this happened in the late 70’s or early 80’s (pretty sure it was in the 70’s in Squamish BC. The local rifle shooters would routinely mock the muzzle loader guys and there archaic guns and challenged the black powder clue to a shoot off. Black powder guys agreed but only if it was an off hand shoot. At the end of it, the lowest muzzleloaders score beat the best suppository score because muzzleloader guys shoot off hand all the time and rarely if ever off a bench once load and sighting is done. Now, of course you would USE a rest if available when hunting but “practicing” from a rest for hunting is a waste of ammo IMO.
 
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