New brass - will neck turning prior to fire forming cause problems/failures?

RonR

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I have some new PRVI PPU brass that I need to body size/bump to fit in my son's rifle. Since I will be processing the brass I would like to neck turn prior to fire forming to save on components. From what I have read here, I believe that most recommend a fire form prior to neck turning.

My questions is: Will neck turning prior to fire forming cause problems/failures?

I can acknowledge that neck turning in advance may not be ideal for accuracy but we are prepping for load development for a new projectile for use this fall.

To note
- novice reloader, loading for a year
- loading for accurate hunting ammunition
- 7mm-08
- Redding body die
- Lee Collet neck die

I'd like to hear from any of you that can offer some insight and experiences

Regards
Ron
 
In my opinion neck turning for anything that does not have a tight necked chamber might be a waste of time. Maybe if you are shooting a benchrest rifle with a tight neck in competition, but not for a hunting rifle. Again, just my 2 cents.
 
I personally take many hours prepping brass out of the bag.

First I FL size with a known die setup for my headspace. Flash hole deburring, neck turning, etc.

That first fireing is more of a fire forming batch for me.

I resently shot a match on the first fireing of new brass and things where suprisingly good.
 
In my opinion neck turning for anything that does not have a tight necked chamber might be a waste of time. Maybe if you are shooting a benchrest rifle with a tight neck in competition, but not for a hunting rifle. Again, just my 2 cents.

Thanks Maynard. Appreciated on the response. I am actually trying to solve a bullet seating issue. I am getting inconsistent OAL's (with federal brass mind you) and inconsistent amounts of force to seat bullets. It should be noted that there may be other reasons for this besides inconsistent neck thickness but it was suggested by a few other Nutz here that neck turning will likely alleviate the inconsistencies I am experiencing. I am using a collet die for neck sizing.

I can see your point.

Regards
Ron
 
I personally take many hours prepping brass out of the bag.

First I FL size with a known die setup for my headspace. Flash hole deburring, neck turning, etc.

That first fireing is more of a fire forming batch for me.

I resently shot a match on the first fireing of new brass and things where suprisingly good.

Flash hole deburring and primer pocket reaming already completed! ;)

Regards
Ron
 
Do the first forming with COW method... no bullet. That will expand the necks which are tight out of the bag... like another popular brand.

Once FF, do basic neck prep AND outside neck turn to 12 thou.... you will find seating a bullet from now on to be smooth and consistent... until you work harden the necks and need to anneal.

Don't over complicate things... get that first firing done however, you want. THEN worry about getting serious about your loading.

Jerry
 
RonR

I'm with maynard on neck turning and below you can see why. But a simple neck thickness gauge below will tell you more about the quality of your cases than anything else.

Below is a average Remington .223 case with .004 neck thickness variation and it would be a total waste of time neck turning these type cases.

IMG_2136_zps079ece9b.jpg


IMG_2137_zps66bcfc13.jpg


With one 360 turn with the Redding gauge above is how I sort my brass before doing anything to the cases. And buying quality brass like Lapua saves hours of case prep work.

Below a case with .0025 case neck variation, and even after neck turning the case is still out of alignment with the axis of the bore.

neckcenter_zps94286f86.jpg
 
Love the pic... and the confused looks from other shooters is priceless.

Jerry

PS... outside neck turning has benefits in any accuracy orientated rifle because it has nothing to do with the chamber and everything to do with controlling and maintaining neck tension on that bullet. " big or small chamber neck dimension" as long as there is enough clearance to release properly the bullet properly, this dimension has ZERO affect on accuracy
 
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Do the first forming with COW method... no bullet. That will expand the necks which are tight out of the bag... like another popular brand.

Once FF, do basic neck prep AND outside neck turn to 12 thou.... you will find seating a bullet from now on to be smooth and consistent... until you work harden the necks and need to anneal.

Don't over complicate things... get that first firing done however, you want. THEN worry about getting serious about your loading.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry...I researched a bit on this method on here. What would be recommended for powder and to retain the cream of wheat from spilling out?

PS. I don't load for handgun so my powder inventory is simply just Varget.

Appreciate the support.

Regards
Ron
 
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Thanks Jerry...I researched a bit on this method on here. What would be recommended for powder and to retain the cream of wheat from spilling out?

PS. I don't load for handgun so my powder inventory is simply just Varget.

Appreciate the support.

Regards
Ron

I use Titegroup as that is what I load my HG today.

Win 231/ HP38 also work... You can use other pistol powders but no experience. Red dot has also been used but a bit too fast for my liking.

A small piece of paper towel wadded and pushed into the neck keeps it all in place. You do not want to compress the stuff too much. Just snug so it doesn't spill out but not jammed.

Any Large primer will work... I have used both rifle and pistol in the past as pressures are not supposed to be high.

Jerry
 
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