New Deer/Moose Rifle- Tikka vs Savage

Alberta Bigbore said:
IMHO...... if u think the tikka feels cheap... your gonna say the same about savage.

Shoulder a Browning Xbolt.... you won't regret it.
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Browning feels the same at tikka, sako, ruger american, axis, rem 770, win xpr. They all feel like recycled pop cans.

For guns that feel like they are made with actual steel I would say weatherby, model 70, Cz, any number of custom actions.
 
I think the stocks on thes guns can leave u with that pop can feeling. I do agree tho, some of them feel a little pop can ish. Model 70's are nice.custom actions especially
 
-Doug- said:
Hello all,
I am looking to buy a .308 or 30.06 rifle for deer/moose and have a couple questions for the experts here.
I have so far been considering the following rifles:

1. Tikka T3 lite synthetic (blue or stainless)
2. Tikka T3X lite synthetic (blue or stainless)
3. Savage 11/111 FCNS
4. Savage 16/116 FCNS

Here is some background prior to my questions:

Regarding Tikka
-held the T3X and thought it was rather light and the stock was cheap feeling (just wasn't anything substantial with no "wow" this feels nice factor) not saying it's bad or anything
-willing to find a T3 to save money and put it towards a better scope but T3s are hard to find
-felt very top/barrel heavy and not balanced (no scope on)

Regarding Savage:
-haven't held one yet
-hoping it feel a little more substantial
-not set on the 11/111 or 16/116 but don't want a budget axis

Regarding Hunting
-range 0-200 yards
-lots of hiking
-all weather conditions (which why I want synthetic)
-Budget for rifle/scope $1600ish (less is preferred)

Questions:
Q1. Is stainless worth the money
Q2. How's the recoil/balance with the tikka after the scope is on?
Q3. Do you need special scope mount and for the T3X and if so how much are they roughly
Q4. Tikka or Savage does it really matter or will I be set with both
Q5. Other rifle suggestions

Any info appreciated,
Thanks

Doug
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lots of hiking means get lightest rifle possible that will do the job. For 0-200 yards, 308 as more than adequate
 
medvedqc said:
you do not have to believe. i witnessed it. i do not know what is extreme cold but if one is not working at -30c i do not see by which miracle it s working.

could you tell us about what you do specially to prepare your rifle.

i do have even one of the plastic retainer on the safety of a t3 that broke, Stoeger thenician didnt want to believe, but it did happen ... and it was not even by -30c but sled can be hard on tools ....
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I take my bolts apart if i dont think they are clear of anything and spray them off with brakleen. I used to try different oils, drylube, no good. All my guns shoot fine at minus 35 never had a corrosion problem. Except the 783 but i think it has a weak spring and the drop of the striker is less than the 700. Its the only one that is problematic. I used to lubd them in the summer then they would fail in the winter till i cleaned them one by one no more of that
 
c-fbmi said:
Actually Boomer this is NOT a maintenance problem, it is or at least was a Tikka problem. 3 of my son's bison hunting buddies had T3s that would not fire in minus 30 even after my boy went through them, with me on the other end of the phone. Bolts were stripped and cleaned with Brakekleen and a couple drops of diesel in the necessary spots, fire fine at 0 no fire at -30..........Phil (medvedqc) was working at the LGS at the same time and he had a couple returned same problem couldn't sort it out either. Boys were using factory ammo, don't know what kind.......Never looked at one personally but I suspect that cold contraction is tightening up a tolerance somewhere until something is binding.
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That's discouraging. The preservative gunk Tikka applies at the factory is gummy stuff, but brake clean would have taken care of that. I don't know if I buy the cold contraction theory, but clearly something changes at low temperature, and its not something obvious; the fact that it occurs regularly suggests a design problem. I dislike the floating recoil lug, but even if it was binding, it wouldn't cause a misfire. I recently watched Nathan Foster's new video about prepping the T-3 to shoot right out of the box, and something that struck me was the light torque he applied to the action screws, about 30-35 inch-pounds, but even if the screws were over-torqued, twisting the rifle out of shape might ruin accuracy, but wouldn't result in a misfire. Perhaps the problem lies in the firing pin spring, or in the firing pin raceway, where the speed of the firing pin is compromised due to a weak spring, friction within the race way, or a combination of the two. Now I wish I had one to fool around with.
 
Mike112288 said:
I think the stocks on thes guns can leave u with that pop can feeling. I do agree tho, some of them feel a little pop can ish. Model 70's are nice.custom actions especially
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Even the wood stocks don't change that feeling. I got a $400 weatherby vanguard and it feels like a solid barrelled action. The stock sucks on it but doesn't take away from the rest. I have a custom gun on a savage model 11 with a b&c stock also have a t3 in a b&c the tikka still feels cheap.
 
Boomer said:
Perhaps the problem lies in the firing pin spring, or in the firing pin raceway, where the speed of the firing pin is compromised due to a weak spring, friction within the race way, or a combination of the two. /QUOTE]

This is what I think is happening to these Tikkas under cold weather conditions.
Not 'nuff clearance going thru the bolt face and binding the firing pin slightly.
Sort of like a cork in a bottle neck.
Regardless, I'm going to take mine apart and use the green fiber sanding pad and gift the
firing pin a good rub.
One may wish to look at the end of the firing pin nub and see how blunt it is also?
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After I first got my model 16 I realized if I cycled the bolt fast or didn't push perfectly straight forward it would bind up and cycled poorly, I ran valve lapping compound on the bolt and action and cycled it numerous evenings, I remember blisters on my palm from going at the bolt while watching TV. My tikka new out of the box was much smoother, I could tilt it 15-20 degrees off horizontal and the bolt would slide forward or backward.

Plus the savages bolt handle and 90 degree throw put my thumb against the scope, I built a new handle for it later but the tikka was a much better rifle ergonomically
 
kamlooky said:
Boomer said:
Perhaps the problem lies in the firing pin spring, or in the firing pin raceway, where the speed of the firing pin is compromised due to a weak spring, friction within the race way, or a combination of the two. /QUOTE]

This is what I think is happening to these Tikkas under cold weather conditions.
Not 'nuff clearance going thru the bolt face and binding the firing pin slightly.
Sort of like a cork in a bottle neck.
Regardless, I'm going to take mine apart and use the green fiber sanding pad and gift the
firing pin a good rub.
One may wish to look at the end of the firing pin nub and see how blunt it is also?
Click to expand...

Something you might try is to paint the firing pin with a marker to see if there is evidence of it making contact with the raceway, or with the surface of the firing pin orifice.
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I have a SS Tikka T3 lite in synthetic with a Burris FF E1 3-9. It is chambered in 30-06. It was too much felt recoil, but that changed considerably after getting a genuine Limbsaver. I really like it a lot now. It also has a bolt that can be disassembled, not sure about the Savages. .308 or 7mm 08 would be nice too, but i already have a CZ in 308.
 
Ended up picking up the savage 16/116.
Got it for a wicked deal.

Now I need to get a base rings and scope.
Looking to get a 2.5-10x vortex or equivalent.


Any suggestions on bases/rings?
Any suggestions on scope?
 
-Doug- said:
Ended up picking up the savage 16/116.
Got it for a wicked deal.

Now I need to get a base rings and scope.
Looking to get a 2.5-10x vortex or equivalent.


Any suggestions on bases/rings?
Any suggestions on scope?
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I'd agree with a poster a page back that said Winchester or CZ. Mauser actions are tough to beat for hunting conditions.

But, you're done looking. Savages are nice for hunting because you don't feel too bad for putting them through tough conditions.

I'd actually recommend a 2-10x trijicon for an optic. The always lit reticle draws your eye in for great shots. Both of my hunting rifles have trijicon optics. The 3-9x has a big red chevron that I just have to hold over the boiler room and the animal is down. My other has a small green dot in the middle with a mil-rad reticle for more precise work.
 
The Savage will serve you well.

Had my Hog Hunter for 3 or so years now and still love it.

I did spray expanding foam into the rear area of the stock, but that's about it.

Love the trigger, love the action, and it shoots better than me.

All in all, Savage while not the most refined are work horses. :)

Paid 469.00 when the CDN was stronger, added a 20mm rail, cheek riser, had the bipod, sling, scope, and M4 brake.

Scope has QD rings, and I am really impressed with the irons, would be great for out to 200 yards on game.

 
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I had a T3 in .300 Win mag and I too had issues with the rifle in the cold. I disassembled completely and cleaned it thinking it would work, but no. At warmer temperatures its worked fine but this was entirely disappointing, and yes the Tikka and Savage feel cheap in whatever stock you put them. My money goes to Winchester, Browning, and Blazer. The Model 70 and X bolt feel like quality, are plenty accurate and work every time.
 
randyhub said:
The Savage will serve you well.

Had my Hog Hunter for 3 or so years now and still love it.

I did spray expanding foam into the rear area of the stock, but that's about it.

Love the trigger, love the action, and it shoots better than me.

All in all, Savage while not the most refined are work horses. :)

Paid 469.00 when the CDN was stronger, added a 20mm rail, cheek riser, had the bipod, sling, scope, and M4 brake.

Scope has QD rings, and I am really impressed with the irons, would be great for out to 200 yards on game.

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What Calibre? Mine is in 338 win mag, I like all my savages
 
.223 as my kids shoot it, and mostly used for target and varmint shooting. I would have got a .308 if we hunted, but wanted something to share ammo with my AR.

How is the recoil in .338, sorry for the hijack.
 
randyhub said:
.223 as my kids shoot it, and mostly used for target and varmint shooting. I would have got a .308 if we hunted, but wanted something to share ammo with my AR.

How is the recoil in .338, sorry for the hijack.
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I have no issues with the recoil but then again I am a big stout man
 
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