New Diana 34 classic

D

dead meat

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
14   0   0
Location
Saskatchewan
I bought a Diana 34 classic 177 cal a week or so ago to replace the Stoger that burned up last winter at a friends house. North Pro has a heck of a good price on these so I picked one up. So far the little I have shot it i'm happy with. Looking forward to spring to wring it out. I have a bullet trap in the basement but it was built to handle an old Russian pellet rifle that I used to teach the kids with many years ago, best I try it out side first to avoid any mishaps with a 900+ fps pellet bouncing off windows and water lines.:rolleyes: I am a little disappointed with the lack of info that came with the rifle, nothing on lubrication or maintenance. Need to get some different types of pellets to try.
 
I just picked up a nice 34 off the EE a couple of weeks ago. Haven't really tried it yet though. I just got a new Walther air rifle and the only lubing in the manual for it is to put a drop or 2 of RWS chamber oil into the compression chamber every 1000 shots. I have read this before for other rifles'. Some say to put a drop or 2 of oil on the mainspring as well. Other than that there are videos showing how to disassemble and do a full lube.
 
Ya lots of info on the web, I just figured the manufacturer would at least have 1 sentence on the subject. I have had many air rifles over the years but never a quality one like the Diana. Still have the old Russian gun I bought back in the 70's.
 
dead meat said:
I bought a Diana 34 classic 177 cal a week or so ago to replace the Stoger that burned up last winter at a friends house. North Pro has a heck of a good price on these so I picked one up. So far the little I have shot it i'm happy with. Looking forward to spring to wring it out. I have a bullet trap in the basement but it was built to handle an old Russian pellet rifle that I used to teach the kids with many years ago, best I try it out side first to avoid any mishaps with a 900+ fps pellet bouncing off windows and water lines.:rolleyes: I am a little disappointed with the lack of info that came with the rifle, nothing on lubrication or maintenance. Need to get some different types of pellets to try.
Click to expand...

congratulations with Diana 34, it is best value for your buck and quality on the market for a break barrel. if seller would supply you with an info available for this rifle in printed format it would weight more then actual rifle. the most information available and most parts available is for the Diana 34. it is honda civic of air guns. do not use mineral oils in compression chamber or near it.
 
For piston seal lubrication use silicone oil.
Available in small bottle online or in rc hobby shop, used as shock/strut oil.
 
My 34 has to be 20 years old and works like a charm. Kills crows bang flop as well as rats but has never hit the published 1000 fps. The crows hate those predator pellets
One in 22 cal is in my future to match it
Cheers
 
I always hate to go against the grain on a forum thread, but here goes anyway. Lol
No matter what a manufacturer says in a manual, it’s never a good idea to put any kind of lubrication into the transfer port of a modern spring rifle. Synthetic piston seals really don’t require it. It will cause combustion which is never good for the health of the gun and will cause inconsistent velocity. The piston itself should be lightly lubricated with lube that won’t migrate and get into the compression chamber. In a nutshell there are places to put lube and places not to, and types of lube to use and types not to.

Back in the day when piston seals were leather, they required oil to keep them supple so they didn’t dry out and shrink.
 
Mulby said:
I always hate to go against the grain on a forum thread, but here goes anyway. Lol
No matter what a manufacturer says in a manual, it’s never a good idea to put any kind of lubrication into the transfer port of a modern spring rifle. Synthetic piston seals really don’t require it. It will cause combustion which is never good for the health of the gun and will cause inconsistent velocity. The piston itself should be lightly lubricated with lube that won’t migrate and get into the compression chamber. In a nutshell there are places to put lube and places not to, and types of lube to use and types not to.

Back in the day when piston seals were leather, they required oil to keep them supple so they didn’t dry out and shrink.
Click to expand...

So the manufacturers are wrong as well as the videos by know airgun specialists ? I just bought a new Walther and in the manual it says to do that every so many pellets. And I'm pretty sure my Weihrauch and Diana manuals say the same. Guess I'm wondering why they would say to do that if it is harming the gun?
 
Well, I guess all I can say is try it. But not with my rifles. Putting anything in front of that piston is going to combust once pressurized by the seal. I guess silicone oil may not, but without creating an argument I wouldn’t use it in the comp tube of any of my guns either.
The problem with lube in front of the seal is that it’s going to not only combust, but it’s going to combust inconsistently and create velocity inconsistency which is never good for accuracy. The other problem is it’s going to end up in the barrel, and foul it. Again creating accuracy issues. I have done a few rebuilds that I’ve had to replace a piston seal not because it was worn out from use, but crispy from combustion.
 
Mulby said:
Well, I guess all I can say is try it. But not with my rifles. Putting anything in front of that piston is going to combust once pressurized by the seal. I guess silicone oil may not, but without creating an argument I wouldn’t use it in the comp tube of any of my guns either.
The problem with lube in front of the seal is that it’s going to not only combust, but it’s going to combust inconsistently and create velocity inconsistency which is never good for accuracy. The other problem is it’s going to end up in the barrel, and foul it. Again creating accuracy issues. I have done a few rebuilds that I’ve had to replace a piston seal not because it was worn out from use, but crispy from combustion.
Click to expand...

I bet it wasn't caused by silicone oil.
 
Mulby said:
Nope. The silicone oil caused the galling between the comp tube and piston body. Lol
Click to expand...

First you are talking about a crispy piston seal due to combustion, then you change it into galling between tube and piston body...

Still don't think silicone oil sparingly applied would be detrimental so I call :bsFlag: on this.
 
Last edited:
gunsaholic said:
So the manufacturers are wrong as well as the videos by know airgun specialists ? I just bought a new Walther and in the manual it says to do that every so many pellets. And I'm pretty sure my Weihrauch and Diana manuals say the same. Guess I'm wondering why they would say to do that if it is harming the gun?
Click to expand...

Like I said mine is 20 years and works just fine and I do exactly what you do
Cheers
 
gunsaholic said:
So the manufacturers are wrong as well as the videos by know airgun specialists ? I just bought a new Walther and in the manual it says to do that every so many pellets. And I'm pretty sure my Weihrauch and Diana manuals say the same. Guess I'm wondering why they would say to do that if it is harming the gun?
Click to expand...

I concur with Mulby. I learned the hard way years ago. Got a few Diana's here. The first one, a D34 Panther, I bought years ago, along with RWS spring lube and chamber lube. I read the instruction, watched a video or 2. 1000 shots or so later I lubed the spring and chamber just like the expert in the video. A few minutes later took a shot and...crack !...like a .22 rim fire. Detonation. Fortunately no damage. Found other info on a forum that if you use that lube then you'd be wise to stand the rifle on its butt for 12 hours, then on barrel for 12 before shooting. Let's the accelerants evaporate. I did that next time, no issue. Eventually that rifle got a Vortek kit installed, and lubed with an ultra thin smear of moly paste, nothing else. That paste lasts many times longer than any oil lube. That barrel seal doesn't need it, either imo. They just want you to buy their lube.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom