New need help!!
- Thread starter Liquid_Snake
- Start date
Depending on the die set, usually a 3 piece die consists of a FL resizing die, Seating die and Crimp die.
There are different types of crimp dies for pistol, so often the 2 piece set will contain a FL resizing die and a seating die, allowing you to purchase the crimp die of your choice.
I do not crimp rifle rounds, unless I intent to shoot them in a rile with a tubular magazine for hunting where they may get banged around a bit and wind up a bit shorter if the bullet gets pushed into the case. Hence I only purchase 2 piece die sets for my rifles.
If you read the description for the die set it will tell you what pieces are included
There are different types of crimp dies for pistol, so often the 2 piece set will contain a FL resizing die and a seating die, allowing you to purchase the crimp die of your choice.
I do not crimp rifle rounds, unless I intent to shoot them in a rile with a tubular magazine for hunting where they may get banged around a bit and wind up a bit shorter if the bullet gets pushed into the case. Hence I only purchase 2 piece die sets for my rifles.
If you read the description for the die set it will tell you what pieces are included
In my experience, a 3 piece die set for bottleneck cartridges will have a full length (FL) sizing die, a neck sizing die and a bullet seating die. The 2 piece set will only have the FL and seating dies.
At least that is how it is on the 9 die sets I currently have. I have not yet seen a die set include a separate crimping die for bottleneck cartridges, they have all had the crimping built into the seating die if there is a crimping option available.
The bullet holder would be the shell holder that mounts to the top of the ram?
Mark
At least that is how it is on the 9 die sets I currently have. I have not yet seen a die set include a separate crimping die for bottleneck cartridges, they have all had the crimping built into the seating die if there is a crimping option available.
The bullet holder would be the shell holder that mounts to the top of the ram?
Mark
A good place to start is a book called "ABC's of reloading" its is a very helpfull book, I used that when i started reloading, and still referance it every now and then even now. Its explains everything you HAVE to know to start reloading safely. Including die parts description and to set properly set each kind up.
I am not throwing a punch or trying to be rude here, but if you are unsure of what die is what, and what part of the dies go where you shouldnt be reloading anything yet. Take it slow, otherwise you may hurt yourself or others with flawed rounds, or just load horrible rounds that wont hit a tank at 25m.
As everyone else is saying, there are many different kinds of die packages.
some 3 die kits are
decapper/sizing, expander, and seating/crimping die. ( this being how my 9mm dies are set up. )
Or
FL sizing and bullet seating die.
Then you can get into competition dies, which add micrometers and bushings, like my 338 lapua competition dies for example.
To go back to advise, start with an easy cartridge and work your way up. Maybe .308win, then work up to harder calibers. I think i started with .223 win and worked my way up to what i consider some of the harder rounds to load, 50 BMG and 5.7x28mm FN. 5.7 being a very finiky round to reload, the margine between min, and max powder loads are very small, not to mention to lack of reputable data.
but i digress, im rambling. To sum it up, hit the books. Then the press.
Tony.
I am not throwing a punch or trying to be rude here, but if you are unsure of what die is what, and what part of the dies go where you shouldnt be reloading anything yet. Take it slow, otherwise you may hurt yourself or others with flawed rounds, or just load horrible rounds that wont hit a tank at 25m.
As everyone else is saying, there are many different kinds of die packages.
some 3 die kits are
decapper/sizing, expander, and seating/crimping die. ( this being how my 9mm dies are set up. )
Or
FL sizing and bullet seating die.
Then you can get into competition dies, which add micrometers and bushings, like my 338 lapua competition dies for example.
To go back to advise, start with an easy cartridge and work your way up. Maybe .308win, then work up to harder calibers. I think i started with .223 win and worked my way up to what i consider some of the harder rounds to load, 50 BMG and 5.7x28mm FN. 5.7 being a very finiky round to reload, the margine between min, and max powder loads are very small, not to mention to lack of reputable data.
but i digress, im rambling. To sum it up, hit the books. Then the press.
Tony.
however, there are also SEVERAL videos on youtube that show you HOW TO RELOAD; loads for factory rounds are available on the net from reloader's nest amongst others- a proper reLoading book is NO LONGER NECESSARY unless you wish to know sight in distances, trajectories, pressures etc- which nobody bothers with anyway, but they should- just remember that your load is only good for that COMBINATION of components; change any one of the 3 critical( primer, bullet or powder) and you have to start back at the starting load;you're lucky in the fact that the 243 is one of the easier cartridges to load for- it takes powders like ww748, and a lot of the others, and MAGNUM primers if you're using BALL powder- the rest is just about as simple as you can get
there's also a site put up by the NATIONAL REOADING MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION which gives all the steps as well- that's been around for years;whichever way you go, book or on line, make sure you know exactly how it's done BEFORE trying it out; ie watch the vid, read the book at least 2wice before following along- and don't try to IMPROVE on the steps- that's where most of the goofups come from; fellas that try to cut a step or save time-
there's also a site put up by the NATIONAL REOADING MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION which gives all the steps as well- that's been around for years;whichever way you go, book or on line, make sure you know exactly how it's done BEFORE trying it out; ie watch the vid, read the book at least 2wice before following along- and don't try to IMPROVE on the steps- that's where most of the goofups come from; fellas that try to cut a step or save time-
To add a bit more, the dies are marked on the top what they are, or should be.
Not sure about the Lee dies, but RCBS new in the box come with die operating
instructions. Read them and keep them close to the press. I'm a doer not a reader
as I find it hard to keep it all between the ears. Just follow the steps one at a time
and you should be good to go on the set up of the dies.
If you load enough, you will get the feel of the ram arm in your hand and will get
to know if something isn't feeling right. After you bugger up enough cases, the light
will come on. I had a friend who has reloaded countless rounds come over and set
things up and give me the what for on how it all works.
There is a lot to learn and know. It will come and it will take a bit of time.
KEEP your can of powder you are using close by so you know
that is the powder you are using at the time and there is no mixing up powders.
Stories of powder mix ups are scary.
It does feel great to load and shoot them off.
Cheers.
Looky.
Not sure about the Lee dies, but RCBS new in the box come with die operating
instructions. Read them and keep them close to the press. I'm a doer not a reader
as I find it hard to keep it all between the ears. Just follow the steps one at a time
and you should be good to go on the set up of the dies.
If you load enough, you will get the feel of the ram arm in your hand and will get
to know if something isn't feeling right. After you bugger up enough cases, the light
will come on. I had a friend who has reloaded countless rounds come over and set
things up and give me the what for on how it all works.
There is a lot to learn and know. It will come and it will take a bit of time.
KEEP your can of powder you are using close by so you know
that is the powder you are using at the time and there is no mixing up powders.
Stories of powder mix ups are scary.
It does feel great to load and shoot them off.
Cheers.
Looky.
the way to eliminate your powder mex-ups is to confine your powder choices to 1 or 2 that suits whatever you're shooting and either use a complete press for just that ( rifle or pistol) or use one that has interchangeable heads- like a turret or progressive- ie i use nothing but ww748 in all my rifles( 223, 308, ) and 231 in my pistols( 9mm, 45acp and 44 mag) and , therefore , only need 2 powders- if you don't go 2 presses, be sure and EMPTY THE HOPPER - DON'T TRUST YOUR MEMORY AS TO WHAT'S IN THERE- i've seen the consequences often enough- the gun BLOWS UP
It is generally impossible to only use one powder in all your rifle or pistol calibres if you plan on getting optimum performance from them. Good clean up practices and only having one powder out at a time will take care of any possible confusion.
Mark
I agree with Mark on using different powders Safely!!!!! The die question....Most die sets for bottleneck cases are 2 die sets, one die deprimes and resizes and the other seats bullet and crimps. Straight sided case die sets come in 3s, die #1 resizes and deprimes, die #2 expands and flares case mouth, die #3 seats bullet and crimps.....
There are exceptions such as Reddings excellent "Deluxe die sets" which are a 3 die set, which includes a full length sizer die and a neck sizing die. This is the die set that I would recommend to most beginning reloaders.
I would also recommend that someone new to reloading get together with someone that knows what they are doing and watch them reload, to see what works and how.
There are exceptions such as Reddings excellent "Deluxe die sets" which are a 3 die set, which includes a full length sizer die and a neck sizing die. This is the die set that I would recommend to most beginning reloaders.
I would also recommend that someone new to reloading get together with someone that knows what they are doing and watch them reload, to see what works and how.
The only thing not brought up, even though not part of the original question, was dimensional checks, ... which leads to RELOADING MANUALS.
Reloading manuals, such as ... published by Lymans or Hornadys, provide vital information other than bullet, powder, and primer specifications ... dimesional information for one. A proper "fitting bullet" is very important.
I would suggest one get their reloading data from RELIABLE sources .... and the internet is not always reliable.... u-tube included .... back you work with PROVEN loads by reputable entities who are willing to back their data.
Most, if not all, of the major ammunition manufacuters spend alot of time, money, and resources in developing and publishing data for loads which are proven to be safe with performance in mind. I would accept "home brew load data" with caution!!!
For example, the link below is for reloading data (and is one I would trust) but lacks dimensional information. At somet point in time, if you reload I would think one may need to trim the shell at some point, to achieve dimensional tolerances.
http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp
Reloading manuals, such as ... published by Lymans or Hornadys, provide vital information other than bullet, powder, and primer specifications ... dimesional information for one. A proper "fitting bullet" is very important.
I would suggest one get their reloading data from RELIABLE sources .... and the internet is not always reliable.... u-tube included .... back you work with PROVEN loads by reputable entities who are willing to back their data.
Most, if not all, of the major ammunition manufacuters spend alot of time, money, and resources in developing and publishing data for loads which are proven to be safe with performance in mind. I would accept "home brew load data" with caution!!!
For example, the link below is for reloading data (and is one I would trust) but lacks dimensional information. At somet point in time, if you reload I would think one may need to trim the shell at some point, to achieve dimensional tolerances.
http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp
