New NP29 Problems - More problems

Regarding the latest assessment of your pistol... if it was mine I'd give it a full detail strip... right down to the little parts... and give it a good cleaning inside. It may be some grit/grease inside the workings causing the trigger to stick.

A good cleaning on detail strip may reveal this. Then reassemble and check the parts fit. Norcs aren't particularly finished well in the inside. Maybe yours has a couple burrs here & there that may need to be smoothed out. Could be the cause of the sticking trigger.

Then reassemble with a light oiling. Back to the range for function testing.

Mag not dropping free will be the magazine. Slide only locking only 1 out of 10 on last shot maybe the slide release if it's doing that will all mags or maybe the mag follower if only on one mag. Ejecting brass catching in slide can be over-strength recoils spring +/or under power ammo. Or slide is catching in it's movement. [Check for slide fit/function on detail strip].
 
Rusty Shackleford said:
holy crap, a full detail strip? That sounds complicated. Hopefully I can google some instructions. lol
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Only complicated the first time you do it... but you will quickly get an idea of how everything fits/functions together. A must for every 1911 owner. Besides, it's like riding a bike... once you learn it you will never forget & will be amazed at just how simple it is. ;)
 
John Moses Browning did his homework when he designed this 1911 baby. He did a grand job all contemporary technologies considered.

You will surprised how detailed you can strip this baby down. All kinds of information on the net about 1911 disassembly. This is almost a 100 year old design.... not too complicated.
 
It sounds like something is binding the trigger mechanism. Doesn't Marstar have an "Ironclad Warranty" or something to that extent? Send it back and ask for a refund (or replacement). It sounds like the gun has way too many problem to try to fix it yourself.
 
I did change my slide release to a Wilson Combat part - the one for the 9mm / .38 super not the .45 one. I also dumped the Rinco mags. The gun ran 100% after those changes.

Detail strip might help but it is a 1911 and may need a few hundred rounds to break it in. That said, the Chinese love to goop up their stuff before they ship it, there may be some gunk inside the frame. I think there are detail strip instructions at www.1911forum.com
 
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The Rinco's often have heavy (sticky) grease on the inside this should be cleaned off everything and proper gun oil put on.

Sounds like you may have some mag issues. Slightly bent with uneven feed lips perhaps.

The Slide lock being extended can bounce so it doesn't catch properly (although this can also be poor mag lip/taper shaping.) You may want to put a small detent dimple on it.

Also the NP29's have a recoil spring that is WAY heavier than it needs to be. Try going to something in the 9-12 lb range with a buffer if you want, but its not necessary.

Finally the problems with the trigger could be tied to sticky crap and the disconnector. Make sure to clean where the sear spring runs also.
 
We had a detail clean of Rusty's gun the other night. One mag is definately suspect. With nothing but grip screws left on the gun, both mags dropped free. Both mags slip through the trigger bow easily. Installed in the frame, the one mag catches on the trigger bow.

The lock up of the barrel to the slide is very harsh as it comes in to battery. After cleaning and a more than normal application of breakfree, it was improved a fair bit, but still noticebly stiff.

Yup, the recoil spring does seem harsh, and I've offered a 10# replacement after he test drives it again.

My guess as to the failure to lock open is due to Sir Isacc Newton and the extra mass on the slide stop.

All in all, it is a decent gun for the price. The new beavertail is perfect. The safety was slightly mushy. I would install a nicer trigger, but the factory hammer and sear are not horrible, just plain.
 
i wouldn't throw the mag out either- i've got some el cheapo ( south american) mags that would habitually stick about an inch out on ejecting out of an 1911( colt btw, not a clone) so ittk them apart, tried different springs, different followers, swapped parts between mags like crazy- every time i tried it i got one more that would work- finally i got down to 1 and reversed the spring -not top to bottom but front to rear- point being sometimes they just need to"worn " in- i think i ejected that mag about 200 times in a week wearing it in- they ALL work now
 
So thanks to Canuck223 the gun is now working fine. I put 125 rounds through it yesterday, no problems. The last shot hold open worked 24/25 times. Canuck lent me a magazine, so 2/3 mags were dropping perfectly. No stovepipes, trigger was fine, slide didn't bind on the barrel. Gun shoots accurately (I let some other guy try it :) ). Overall I'm happy with the gun. I guess I'm just going to have to keep it well lubricated until it breaks in.

Thanks again Dave, now if I can only learn to take it apart myself. Upgrades will come in time, but I think for now I want to invest in ammo.
 
"I guess I'm just going to have to keep it well lubricated until it breaks in."

1911's need to be lubricated to function at their peak, not just during the break in period. It will function with out oil but if you want in to run at 100% always put a few drops on the rails and locking lugs before your shooting session. If thats too much of a hassel then you could get it NP3'd or some other kind of self lubricating finish put on it.
 
I haven't read all the posts so I hope this is not a repeat. As far as catching the case in the ejection port, this can be caused by a relaxed grip. I had the same problem with another 1911 I had and an old pistol shooter told me you have to have a "firm" grip and locked wrist when using an auto pistol. I was letting the recoil move my hand back with I started. I tried his suggestion, and yes, the caught case problem disappeared!
 
Hitzy said:
I had to tweek mine......it was grabbing the rim with hardly any tension at all. Gave her a little bend and it has been great since.
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Rusty's has enough tension, but I suspect that a new fitted firing pin stop will smooth out the ejection arc. I suspect it's "clocking" because the fit is too loose at the stop.
 
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