New Pedersoli Hawken "Acceptable "imperfections ??? PHOTOS ADDED

bandanaman

bandanaman

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Just got my new .54 cal Pedersoli Hawken /maple stocked percussion rifle and it's a beauty...But being new to black powder rifles and being a consumer from "H_ _ L", I have a couple of queries for you more experienced than myself.Minor issues with finish and butt plate finishing and fit are really no big deal..This toy is still a tool and I expect it to get bumps and bruises toting it through the back country.What I don't know is the hammer to nipple strike allowance not being absolutely dead center.This one is off I'd say 1/2 the diameter of the nipple.Not an 1/8 but maybe 3/32 and half that off center.The other thing is the hammer tang is not 90 degrees to the side of the lock.The hammer clearances are near perfect top and bottom and works fine so I don't think it has been installed poorly.I don't see any adjustment that would correct this.You would have to rework the hammer a lot to have it straight up in my mind.Maybe this is purposely canted ? I'll try and post some photos.Any input would be appreciated.I really don't want to send it back and I feel I can live with it the way it is .It would be nice to know what is the "norm"...
Drat I'm not up to speed on posting photos yet...I'll try later...PHOTOS AT LAST,I THINK!!!!!

[" open image in a new tab "at top left] - right click
 
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I have a Lyman Plains Rifle that I am sure was subcontracted to Pedersoli. The hammer on it is offset in exactly the same manner you describe. My bud has a Thompson Centre Trade rifle that looks to be a clone of mine but with much better wood, fancier trigger guard and patch box, it also has the hammer slightly offset to the same position you describe.

This may be a Pedersoli conundrum or it just may be the way it's designed from the originals.
 
Thanks guys for your input.My hammer queries are put rest. Both Marstar and Pedersoli both assured me this is a trait of the rifle design.The rest will prove itself out when I get a chance to try this puppy out.
 
The concern with the position of the hammer nose relative to the nipple is that if the nipple is too far off center, the hammer will rub on the cap when it is in place. That can slow the hammer down enough that the cap will not fire. If your gun fires the caps OK, then I would not worry. If you do have problems with the caps not firing, the hammer can be heated red hot and the nose bent up or down slightly, whichever is necessary to correct the problem. A longer or shorter nipple can also correct the problem assuming you can find one that is commercially made. Do not try to bend the hammer cold or it is likely to break

cheers mooncoon
 
'K, off topic, {sorry OP} but now that Jay has posted pics, how are these type of rear sights used? There is a relief cut in the bottom, and I'll assume that's where the front blade aligns with, but what the heck is with the massive "horns"? When shooting farther out, are you supposed to center the front blade between the horn tips?

I'm asking because I have an old (pre-confederation) target rifle with this set up. I haven't fired it yet and the rear sight is part of the reason for this. {acquiring the proper caliber "sugarloaf" mold being the other, but I digress:wave:}

Apologies for going off the rails OP, but since a perfect pic is posted I hope you're ok with the question.
 
No Problem gun talk all the same to me...I've always thought that the buckhorn and or semi buckhorn were used as kind of a "hooded" sight which would more of less be your "field of view" like a scope and you would instinctively center your target .Then pick a hair with the front blade and rear fine slot...
 
plinker 777 said:
', how are these type of rear sights used? There is a relief cut in the bottom, and I'll assume that's where the front blade aligns with, but what the heck is with the massive "horns"? When shooting farther out, are you supposed to center the front blade between the horn tips?
I haven't fired it yet and the rear sight is part of the reason for this. {acquiring the proper caliber "sugarloaf" mold being the other, but I digress:wave:}
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They are called buckhorn sights locally and there is also a full buckhorn where the side pieces curve back over and almost touch. I think they were partially a matter of fashion and perhaps partially to perhaps shade the notch from side light. Some people do use more or less blade exposed to compensate for longer ranges but my feeling is that it is very difficult to be consistent in how much blade is above the notch. I think you are far better to keep the top of the front sight level with the top of the notch on the rear sight ( ie a constant sight picture) and use a sighting target (a tree branch or a rock etc above the intended target) to give you a constant sight picture and constant degree of elevation for a given range

I think you are likely to find sugar loaf bullets an excercise in frustration. They have to be seated with a rod that centers the top of the bullet and I suspect have to be soft combined with a heavy charge so that they upset into the bore.

cheers mooncoon
 
I use my Pedersoli Rocky Mountain Hawken for Trail Walks I use 60 grains of FFg, a Hornady .54 cal. ball (0.530") and a 0.010 patch. The patch is precut and soaked in a mix of Ballistol and water, and carried in a small tin so it is still damp at reloading. I also use case 0.530" balls as well.
 
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mooncoon said:
They are called buckhorn sights locally and there is also a full buckhorn where the side pieces curve back over and almost touch. I think they were partially a matter of fashion and perhaps partially to perhaps shade the notch from side light. Some people do use more or less blade exposed to compensate for longer ranges but my feeling is that it is very difficult to be consistent in how much blade is above the notch. I think you are far better to keep the top of the front sight level with the top of the notch on the rear sight ( ie a constant sight picture) and use a sighting target (a tree branch or a rock etc above the intended target) to give you a constant sight picture and constant degree of elevation for a given range

I think you are likely to find sugar loaf bullets an excercise in frustration. They have to be seated with a rod that centers the top of the bullet and I suspect have to be soft combined with a heavy charge so that they upset into the bore.

cheers mooncoon
Click to expand...

Thanks mooncoon; I never understood the "horns", I guess there's nothing to understand, just aesthetics. I hear you in regards to the "exercise in frustration" attempting sugar loaf boolits. No doubt a delicate balance of hardness vs. charge to get any accuracy. Too soft, too heavy on the charge=leading. Too hard or not enough "umph"= no seating into the rifling {might not even mark the target?} I'm up for the challenge, but the bore is a weird .47/ .48 caliber so finding a mold has been a Grail type quest...I'll have to get one made most likely.
 
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